Sounds like a good setup! I wish I'd noticed the spacers on the crossmember. I've got plenty of scrap steel, I'm sure we coulda taken care of that.
CK5
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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning
- Thread starter shima
- Start date
First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
I think we should be able to dig up some flat stock to use as a spacer. Though I noticed one of the bolts was loose when I touched it.
I would try putting the flat stock spacers in and move the round spacers back on top of the frame. It's my understanding the spacers were originally used to help keep the bolts from loosening up. I don't know if that's rumor or fact, but it would be interesting to see if it helps.
Just spit bilalling. Would the spacers be needed with a cv shaft. How would removing them help/hurt with lenght?
A spacer to drop the t-case output would help. Just not the four round ones. If the cross member was flat to the frame the down angle on the shaft would be even steeper than it is now. Which is probably why whoever lifted his truck with the blocks flipped the spacers in the first place.
That would be my plan too. I’ve got a 1/2” thick spacer on mine that was in use when I used the slip/cv shaft Drew is going to try out. We would just need to scrounge up some flat stock to do something similar.
Hey @Capt Ron any chance you got some 1/2” thick x 2” wide flat stock in your stash somewhere?
I ran a rear cv shaft with the tcase in the factory position just adjust the rear pinion.
I'll see what I can find.
I have spent the holidays back home in St. Louis, but fly back tonight...
I have some parts on order:
I have some parts on order:
- RockAuto
- Ignition Control Module
- Offroad Design
- HD Shackles
- U-Bolts
I chipped away at some work over the past few days. Felt good to be back in the garage.
New HD rear shackles are on. I had a hard time on the driver's side because the leaf spring eye was offset from the shackle. Needed to use a pry bar to get the shackle onto the spring. I am weak, so this was a struggle.
New u-bolts are in and chopped down... this went smoothly although my sawzall shook the s*** out of the u-bolts. lol
I put some blue loctite on these. The jury seemed to be out on the internet on whether that was standard practice. I check the torque at every other oil change so I am sure it will be fine.
With those two things out of the way, it was time to get started on trying out @ZooMad75's rear driveshaft.
Unfortunately, I bought the wrong u-joint. I purchased the Spicer 5-460x, which is for 1310/1350 conversion. The 1310 side on this u-joint was too narrow, and the caps were also a little small.
I texted back-and-forth a bit with Rob and it looks like I needed the Spicer 5-648x for 1330/1350 conversion. So I ordered that last night.
Here's a pic of the 5-460x test fit. No bueno.
This next photo shows Rob's original u-joint on the left, my old u-joint in the middle, and the new Spicer 5-460x on the right. The two u-joints on the left measure about 3.625" across, and the new u-joint measures about 3.25" across (on the 1310 side).
With regard to the actual driveshafts, I was worried a little bit at first because Rob's driveshaft is about two inches shorter:
HOWEVER, I held his driveshaft up beneath the truck and I think it might make it.
So now all that is left is getting this new conversion u-joint in... installing it... and then going for a test ride. Cross your fingers!
While waiting to get the new u-joint, I am going to install a new ignition module and am also going to put some dye into my coolant reservoir (tracking down a leak). Will keep everyone posted as always.
New HD rear shackles are on. I had a hard time on the driver's side because the leaf spring eye was offset from the shackle. Needed to use a pry bar to get the shackle onto the spring. I am weak, so this was a struggle.
New u-bolts are in and chopped down... this went smoothly although my sawzall shook the s*** out of the u-bolts. lol
I put some blue loctite on these. The jury seemed to be out on the internet on whether that was standard practice. I check the torque at every other oil change so I am sure it will be fine.
With those two things out of the way, it was time to get started on trying out @ZooMad75's rear driveshaft.
Unfortunately, I bought the wrong u-joint. I purchased the Spicer 5-460x, which is for 1310/1350 conversion. The 1310 side on this u-joint was too narrow, and the caps were also a little small.
I texted back-and-forth a bit with Rob and it looks like I needed the Spicer 5-648x for 1330/1350 conversion. So I ordered that last night.
Here's a pic of the 5-460x test fit. No bueno.
This next photo shows Rob's original u-joint on the left, my old u-joint in the middle, and the new Spicer 5-460x on the right. The two u-joints on the left measure about 3.625" across, and the new u-joint measures about 3.25" across (on the 1310 side).
With regard to the actual driveshafts, I was worried a little bit at first because Rob's driveshaft is about two inches shorter:
- Rob's Driveshaft
- Total Length: ~36.25"
- Yoke Length: ~6"
- Non-Yoke Length: ~30.25"
- Drew's Old Driveshaft
- Total Length: ~38.25"
- Yoke Length: ~6"
- Non-Yoke Length: 32.25"
HOWEVER, I held his driveshaft up beneath the truck and I think it might make it.
So now all that is left is getting this new conversion u-joint in... installing it... and then going for a test ride. Cross your fingers!
While waiting to get the new u-joint, I am going to install a new ignition module and am also going to put some dye into my coolant reservoir (tracking down a leak). Will keep everyone posted as always.
Use a scotch bright pad on that slip yoke before you install.
Pro tip ratchet strap can move springs wher you need them.
Looking at the conversation picture's (on my phone) are you sure you need a conversion joint ?
Pro tip ratchet strap can move springs wher you need them.
Looking at the conversation picture's (on my phone) are you sure you need a conversion joint ?
1330 is between size
I could have swore a stock 10bolt yoke was a 1310 joint. But the measurements showed otherwise.
The only difference between Drew’s setup and mine as far as the driveshaft length goes is mine had the 14ff axle and his is the stock 10b. Both have ORD flips and 241’s without sye’s. It looks to me like there is enough slip on the front to make up the difference.
We still need to remove the spacers between the frame and t-case crossmember. I’ll look in our scrap at work if we have any 1/2” steel we can cut up for a better spacer.
The only difference between Drew’s setup and mine as far as the driveshaft length goes is mine had the 14ff axle and his is the stock 10b. Both have ORD flips and 241’s without sye’s. It looks to me like there is enough slip on the front to make up the difference.
We still need to remove the spacers between the frame and t-case crossmember. I’ll look in our scrap at work if we have any 1/2” steel we can cut up for a better spacer.
I am doing a little research on the forums and I'm confusing myself...
This old post says 10b rears use "S44" and it isn't interchangeable with 1330. The guy who made that post hasn't been online in many years - does anyone know if I need to look up S44?
This old post says 10b rears use "S44" and it isn't interchangeable with 1330. The guy who made that post hasn't been online in many years - does anyone know if I need to look up S44?
I believe 1330 has the cap diameter of 1310, with the cross width of 1350. Likewise, 1410 is like a 1350 cap on a bigger cross. That photo made it look like the 1310 was small on both dimensions. If I had to pull it from memory, I would say '80's 10-bolts used 1330 yokes.
There were 2 main conversion joints people were tracking here. Apparently the 348 is 1310/1350 and the 447 is 1330/1350.
Do you have calipers? https://ck5.com/forums/threads/1330-and-1350-u-joint-sizes-in-a-driveshaft.39238/post-312942.
I don't see any ears on the axle yoke, which implies it's set up for inside snap rings.
Do you have calipers? https://ck5.com/forums/threads/1330-and-1350-u-joint-sizes-in-a-driveshaft.39238/post-312942.
I don't see any ears on the axle yoke, which implies it's set up for inside snap rings.
Thanks for that old post. The caps on my old u-joint measure out to 1.125", which hopefully means that the 1330 conversion joint coming in the mail will fit in perfectly.
EDIT: I did some research on S44 / 3R and I think may be safe. This page states that the cap diameter is the same (1.125"), but it also says that the S44 u-joints fit yokes that have an inner width of 2-9/16". My original u-joint was 3.625" wide.
EDIT: I did some research on S44 / 3R and I think may be safe. This page states that the cap diameter is the same (1.125"), but it also says that the S44 u-joints fit yokes that have an inner width of 2-9/16". My original u-joint was 3.625" wide.
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My '85 K5 had the 3r joints from the factory. I can tell that's what you had too from the pic above because of the internal snap rings.
The conversion joint for 1350 to 3r is S-3205x.
I just used this conversion joint to hook up my factory driveshaft to my swapped in 14bolt FF.
If Robs driveshaft is 1350, you can you this joint to, just opposite.
The conversion joint for 1350 to 3r is S-3205x.
I just used this conversion joint to hook up my factory driveshaft to my swapped in 14bolt FF.
If Robs driveshaft is 1350, you can you this joint to, just opposite.
Amazon.com: Spicer 5-3205X U-Joint Kit 1350/S44 Series (ISR/OSR) : Automotive
Buy Spicer 5-3205X U-Joint Kit 1350/S44 Series (ISR/OSR): Universal Joints - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
a.co
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Alright well hell I just bought that too. I'll return the one I don't end up using. Thanks @cheavyk10.
3r is the 1330.
