Where is that?
CK5
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1990 5.3 Jimmy
- Thread starter rderosier
- Start date
Wheeler
I did a half ass search for this problem but maybe someone with more knowledge on wiring on a 1990 can chime in. Seems half my fuse panel is out, the radio is out and a lot of the open spaces I have tapped in to power other misc. stuff. Nothing critical is out, lights, fuel pump, etc etc all work. Probably something easy and I'm dumb. Any suggestions?
Maybe put it back in?
What is the issue you are having?
Without looking at a circuit diagram I'd guess fusible link at the starter or at the junction on the firewall.
Ok I had to read it a few times, I only slept a couple hours last night lol.
Sorry for being a smart azz
Sorry for being a smart azz
What about the cab ground? I had a weird issue with stuff in the cab intermittently losing power, like the stereo. One day I happened to notice the bolt holding the ground for the cab was loose, problem solved after that was tightened up.
I have power on the other side of the fusible link after the firewall junction
Is that the braided one toward the passenger side of the firewall?
I'm not sure on factory. I put one from the firewall to the frame. I think that's how factory is. On the passenger side.
There is also a six way ground buss connection under the dash by the parking brake.
Mine is a 4 way and is up higher, but same location. IIRC that is also IP ground and the PCB of the dash controls quite a few things. Check all those fusible links real good. The bulkhead connector also tends to sometimes short and melt, I had that problem on a truck.
yes check all the 12-10ga red wires at engine side of bulk head connector. They should all be hot, battery voltage. pull on the fuse links, if they stretch they are bad. Sometimes a fuse link can burn/break, but carry enough voltage to light a test lamp, or show 12 volts on a meter, but as soon as a real load is is placed on the circuit it opens.
Getting back into the truck 4 months post shoulder surgery so I can do some things again.
I cannot find where the issue with my HVAC/Radio/all accessories in the fuse panel being out is. Power from the two red wires into the panel is good, fusible links off the bulk head are tight and the ground bus under the dash is a solid ground. Not even sure where to look now. Someone please help
I did manage to drop the back end of the transmission/transfer case and swap transmission lines from AN to steel lines that run to the front of the motor, when I parked it they had started to leak where they ran over the header collectors so now it's mobile again.
Leaning back towards going to Moab this year and leaving a day early rather than missing it entirely so I have a list of smaller things i'd like to get done.
I cannot find where the issue with my HVAC/Radio/all accessories in the fuse panel being out is. Power from the two red wires into the panel is good, fusible links off the bulk head are tight and the ground bus under the dash is a solid ground. Not even sure where to look now. Someone please help
I did manage to drop the back end of the transmission/transfer case and swap transmission lines from AN to steel lines that run to the front of the motor, when I parked it they had started to leak where they ran over the header collectors so now it's mobile again.
Leaning back towards going to Moab this year and leaving a day early rather than missing it entirely so I have a list of smaller things i'd like to get done.
This might help. Looks like power comes from the starter to the junction block on the firewall then over to the bulkhead. From there it goes to the ignition switch and to the fuse panel depending on if it's a battery feed or an ignition or acc feed. Problem could be in the bulkhead connector or the fuse panel or the ignition switch. Gotta test with a test light or meter for starters. Might need to load test circuits also. I use a "test light" made out of a high beam halogen headlight. It puts enough of a load on a circuit to tell you whether it will hold a load or has a bad spot. Sometimes a regular test light or meter will show voltage but when a load is applied the circuit will go open. That is where the high beam test light comes in handy because it will load the circuit. There is more to those feed circuits I just highlighted the basics of them.
Some more things to try, thank you!
For the headlight test, do you just wire one in line and see if it lights up?
Just build a big test light. I have a dual beam but am only using the ground and high beam terminals. Mine has adapters for it so I can load test any kind of circuit. If you are just doing power and ground testing you just need alligator clips or something on it. Make your leads 4-5' long. If testing a power then hook it up just like you would with a test light. This just puts like a 5-10 amp load on the circuit and makes sure it can hold it. You can even hook it up and then go and wiggle your harness to see if it flickers if you suspect a bad spot. To do ground circuits you hook the power to a battery source and the ground to your circuit and use it backwards basically.
A normal test light or meter can give you a false good reading if only one strand is making connection on a circuit, this way loads it so you can tell if it's actually good or not.
A normal test light or meter can give you a false good reading if only one strand is making connection on a circuit, this way loads it so you can tell if it's actually good or not.
Great, thank you for this!
Taillight delete mod when you're over smashing them on rocks
And just some pics of it being out off the garage for the first time this year
And just some pics of it being out off the garage for the first time this year
If there's one lesson I get taught time and time again rock crawling it's that if you have a weakness, rocks will find it. Opened my season by heading to Penrose to do Patriot by dropping down Independence. On the very first drop I guess I caught a rock just right on my cast aluminum oil pan, many cracks. Didn't realize til I dropped down the frost waterfall of bunker hill and got out to try to spot @Tnsejed, trail was a muddy mess. Heard the waterfall of oil as soon as I got out. @Tnsejed quickly guided me backwards up the waterfall and turned the truck off. 2 tubes of jb weld later I was off the trail and drove the hour home.
Bonus pics of @Tnsejed not making up the Freedom obstacle, again, mud was a real problem.
Motor got away unscathed somehow so all is good, just need a new oil pan and some armor around it
Bonus pics of @Tnsejed not making up the Freedom obstacle, again, mud was a real problem.
Motor got away unscathed somehow so all is good, just need a new oil pan and some armor around it
That jb weld epoxy stuff is awesome. Lots of wet today. Was nice we got it up the main waterfall of bunker hill before 0psi. The only obstacle without mud water at the bottom was the big fall on bunker hill. But now its oily.
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