CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
1990 K5 Build ( Ol' Blue ) : Rocker rust...
- Thread starter bix
- Start date
Burbdood 74
Giver of not a single damn...
Roger that! Even if it doesn't have the right gears, it looks like a good rebuild this summer and install in the fall.
I understand that the FF is a bit heavier and loses ground clearance, but on a moderate trail you're already dragging diff all over the place. I have dragged my 10bolt over rocks all day and my SF. The FF allows you to run a pinion guard, and you can shave it if you are all that concerned.
Not trailering the rig is another reason to go FF. Your odds of making it home are increased.
I know what it costs to clean up an axle and get it installed with all the right parts, as most of you do. When I bought my SF I thought "what a great deal!", because it already had the locker.
Now, I don't know why I didn't just spend the same amount (or probably less because of parts availability) going with a FF and having the best.
Do I think the semi float will be fine for the job? Definitely. I have had no problems with mine and I've put a lot of wheeling miles on it. I just wouldn't make that decision again.
Not trailering the rig is another reason to go FF. Your odds of making it home are increased.
I know what it costs to clean up an axle and get it installed with all the right parts, as most of you do. When I bought my SF I thought "what a great deal!", because it already had the locker.
Now, I don't know why I didn't just spend the same amount (or probably less because of parts availability) going with a FF and having the best.
Do I think the semi float will be fine for the job? Definitely. I have had no problems with mine and I've put a lot of wheeling miles on it. I just wouldn't make that decision again.
I paid 150$ for my complete assembly. 8 lug 3.73 and open.
Last edited:
Im confident the SF will do the job im looking for an get me many wheeling miles out of it, if down the road its not cutting it i can swap the SF for a FF but i doubt that will be the case. If i learn the lesson the hard way than so be it. All part of the road to finding what rig is best for you and your needs. Since it has the gears i want and is open i think its a great start. I appreciate all the positive feedback on the SF too, if i was to throw in some alloy axle shafts and a locker, i think itd do just great for what i want.
If you want to keep six lug wheels, do a 14bsf.
If you are going to swap to eight lug wheels, it makes no sense to me.
Martin
If you are going to swap to eight lug wheels, it makes no sense to me.
Martin
I dont see the logic since both can be converted to 6 lug..?
Last I looked 6 lug hubs for 14ff are around $600 for a set.....
I do like my 6 lug 14sf. Its easy to regear, not quite as simple as the 14ff, but close.But parts are much more expensive. My Detroit locker was $700, and a 14ff Detroit ive seen new for under $500..... Bearings and other parts were also more expensive than the 14ff.
I do like my 6 lug 14sf. Its easy to regear, not quite as simple as the 14ff, but close.But parts are much more expensive. My Detroit locker was $700, and a 14ff Detroit ive seen new for under $500..... Bearings and other parts were also more expensive than the 14ff.
Lucked out when I bought the Detroit for my sf, man them things ain't cheap.
Keep er 6 lug and build the 14 bolt You have IMO
Mine has 8 lugs from factory. Thats what im going to do bowtie85, if in a coulple years it isnt good then ill do a FF swap. I want to focus on more important rust repair and other issues, i wont be rebuilding the axles until this winter anyway, so i will figure it all out then. Im glad to havw tRustys imput as he has overbuilt before and underbuilt and knows my plan and expectations of the future rig, im going to go 14sf and hope it takes me where i want to go.
Its a great axle and you will be happy with it. We were just pointing out the price points of it and what we experienced with ours.
I hope I'm not being difficult, but I'm just giving you the advice I wish I had been given when I built my rear axle.
I bought my axle with a locker for $500. I'm going to break down the prices to the best of my memory to get it into the truck.
$500 - 14bsf with 6 lug shafts and lock right locker
$150 - diff guard
$50 - perches and shock mounts
$200 - all new brakes, studs to match, lug nuts, backing plates
$350 - gears
=$1250
You already know you at least have to buy a locker, shafts (and don't forget drums which are not cheap), and a diff cover. Sure, you got a great price on the axle, but unless you get a steal on lockers and shafts you'll be close to $1000 before you even clean the axle up with breaks and seals and everything.
You could probably be disc braked on a cucv takeout axle with a locker and 6 lug for a similar price point. You'd have to do the math. Either way, you're also buying front gears. I'd be looking for a deeper gear than 3.73. This is what I wish I'd have done.
Also, it seems every performance part for a 14ff is cheaper than a 14bsf.
In my opinion, the only reason to go 14bsf is when you want a cheap way to run an 8 lug setup, not the other way around. If you can get a matching drivable 8 lug setup off a burb and bolt it in cheap and easy without any extra work needed.
I bought my axle with a locker for $500. I'm going to break down the prices to the best of my memory to get it into the truck.
$500 - 14bsf with 6 lug shafts and lock right locker
$150 - diff guard
$50 - perches and shock mounts
$200 - all new brakes, studs to match, lug nuts, backing plates
$350 - gears
=$1250
You already know you at least have to buy a locker, shafts (and don't forget drums which are not cheap), and a diff cover. Sure, you got a great price on the axle, but unless you get a steal on lockers and shafts you'll be close to $1000 before you even clean the axle up with breaks and seals and everything.
You could probably be disc braked on a cucv takeout axle with a locker and 6 lug for a similar price point. You'd have to do the math. Either way, you're also buying front gears. I'd be looking for a deeper gear than 3.73. This is what I wish I'd have done.
Also, it seems every performance part for a 14ff is cheaper than a 14bsf.
In my opinion, the only reason to go 14bsf is when you want a cheap way to run an 8 lug setup, not the other way around. If you can get a matching drivable 8 lug setup off a burb and bolt it in cheap and easy without any extra work needed.
My original plan was to keep it 8 lug and find a dana 60 for the front, regear the rear to match the 4.10 usually found in the d60 , lock both and be done with it..
I should have kept my mouth shut about the junkyard find... Hahaha
A Dana 60 front with a semi floater rear is an odd combo.
Martin
Martin
