Bottom left... every post on my phone!??
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It's this new forum format me thinks, my iPhone does the simalar things. It usually is right 50% of
the time. The other half its just focked!!
CK5
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1990 K5 Build ( Ol' Blue ) : Rocker rust...
- Thread starter bix
- Start date
It's this new forum format me thinks, my iPhone does the simalar things. It usually is right 50% of
the time. The other half its just focked!!
Same. It's been happening the past few weeks and I've just been ignoring it.
Clear your internet caches. That'll straighten it out.
Good choice on the semi floater rear diff. I put 600+ ft lbs of engine torque through mine on a regular basis and it hasn't missed a beat. That rear axle has been in 3 different wheelers I've run and I've literally done nothing but check the oil every once in a while. I love the ground clearance and weight savings they provide. Literally have zero worries about it in the back of my mind when I'm out wheeling. Its the D60 I keep breaking over and over again. I broke it again in Moab a couple weeks ago and the truck is still on the trailer because of it.
I did a disc brake swap on mine but that is entirely un-necessary IMO. It added extra complication to setting my brakes up and I only did it as a measure to keep my wheel on if I broke an axle shaft. 10+ years of wheeling on the diff with 37" tires and I've never hurt it.
Did you buy a kit or build it? That's my only concern with the SF is the axles not being bolted to the housing.
If the dirtymax hasnt broken it to bits i dont think my 350 or even ls1 when i get there will do much damage for the wheeling i intend on doing, Its not going to be a rock bumper and if i learn how to wheel smart, then ill be fine. How bad did you break penny? I heard you also took a transfer case with you
BTW thanks with the info about that DRAC module and the way to fix my speedometer, let me know if you have one with the infinit tabs installed and id totally be willing to buy it off of you if you have no use for it anymore.
Great to meet ya russell ! maybe all 3 of us will go wheeling when penny is off her crutches and walking again
I'll have penny repaired later this week. I replaced the transfer case in Moab but wound up with an older housing which has a slightly different pitch on the teeth of the planetary ring gear which causes the 29 spline input shaft to howl something horrible. Rene was kind enough to give me the proper t-case I need to repair her right.
The pinion bearings are finished in the D60. Still deciding if I am going to bother repairing them or not. Penny is facing retirement here shortly, but she may be worth fixing just to finish the wheeling season off with... Just sucks completely tearing the front diff down just to replace the pinion bearing. We'll see how motivated I am...
I'd love to take the two of you (and maybe get Matt from Edmonton to bring his K5 out as well) for a fullsize trip out to Ruby Falls later this year.
The pinion bearings are finished in the D60. Still deciding if I am going to bother repairing them or not. Penny is facing retirement here shortly, but she may be worth fixing just to finish the wheeling season off with... Just sucks completely tearing the front diff down just to replace the pinion bearing. We'll see how motivated I am...
I'd love to take the two of you (and maybe get Matt from Edmonton to bring his K5 out as well) for a fullsize trip out to Ruby Falls later this year.
Due to some financial and personal choices of changing jobs i may have to skip moab this year. Im only 25 and theres alot of moab trips left in my lifetime, who knows i may get the time off at my new job and still go down. Its good rene had that tcase laying around. At bucks its crazy how many tcases you see just sitting around as people drop them to access other parts. his d60 is still in need of alot of love so theres time to find another tcase and its good youll be using it right away. I have never heard of ruby falls, is it legal. I would love to find some wheeling around here. I am also worried about my front dirveshaft length atm since the lift has pulled it out snother inch or more from the slip. That and needing all my brake lines changed before the extended ORD ones go in, has me also thinking moab may be better left to next year when money to do these things isnt such a gamble with a new job. Rene is looking into a spacer that is applied before the double cardon to help extend the shaft length. He also mentioned for about 5-600 USD there are some bombproof high angle drivelines available, my build is at a stand still until i move at the end of this month. Its worth the wait as i am getting a double car garage with the rental unit!
You got a couple months yet before you have to make a final decision on Blazer Bash...
I havent posted in here in a while, its been a hectic few months and things have finally settled in. Long story short, a break up, move and brief period of couch surfing in between, i have moved into a new place and acquired a nice sized double ( single ) garage
Me and rene had taken a trip out to Max02s place, in the days before i had heard a huge clunk coming out of my rear end while traveling about 70 kmph..
I had mentioned this to rene and he suggested getting an extra 10 bolt would be a good option and take my time and building my 14b properly in no rush.. JUST to make something clear i have settled on the 14b SF 6 lug that i obtained and a beefier 10 bolt front. The plan is no bigger than 35s and until i break either one i wont be upgrading.
that being said after a welcoming trip out the max02s place ( thanks dean! ) we ended up with a torch and just a few axles to put into my truck for the drive home.
diffffsss
In there was two diffs , 10 bolt front and rear (3.73 gears for renes truck, as a quick moab fix) and a 14B sf rear (6lug) for me with 3.73s and a another rear for me as earlier described wheni was worried i hate a gov bomb ready to explode in my rear axle.As we discovered i have a gov lock in my rear 10 bolt as rene has described he thought was very possible considering the options on my truck.It was in fact, in very good shape and we put new gear oil and painted the awful blue diff cover black with a good buffing.
Me and rene had taken a trip out to Max02s place, in the days before i had heard a huge clunk coming out of my rear end while traveling about 70 kmph..
I had mentioned this to rene and he suggested getting an extra 10 bolt would be a good option and take my time and building my 14b properly in no rush.. JUST to make something clear i have settled on the 14b SF 6 lug that i obtained and a beefier 10 bolt front. The plan is no bigger than 35s and until i break either one i wont be upgrading.that being said after a welcoming trip out the max02s place ( thanks dean! ) we ended up with a torch and just a few axles to put into my truck for the drive home.
diffffsss In there was two diffs , 10 bolt front and rear (3.73 gears for renes truck, as a quick moab fix) and a 14B sf rear (6lug) for me with 3.73s and a another rear for me as earlier described wheni was worried i hate a gov bomb ready to explode in my rear axle.As we discovered i have a gov lock in my rear 10 bolt as rene has described he thought was very possible considering the options on my truck.It was in fact, in very good shape and we put new gear oil and painted the awful blue diff cover black with a good buffing.
After about a month or so i finally got some parts out of renes garage
I got this front drive shaft:
Going to redo the ujoints ( spicers )and order the 1' spacer for the front axle as to not lengthen my front shaft for now.
front DS
I still need to disassemble the double cardon and find out what i need to rebuild that, Rene mentioned there possibly being a spring inside the middle.
i also aquired this front clip and tube grill i have been looking for, ( another great goody from dean! )
IMG_4381
I went and got some jackstands the other day and finally got the 10 bolt front on them to start cleaning up.
IMG_4386
i got it drained and took a good look at the insides. Seem to be decent even though i will going up to 3.73s possible but may stick with the 3.42s
for now. Me and rene had noticed this beefy tie rod the 10 bolt had on it.
IMG_4392
IMG_4391
i soaked it for an hour or two in penetrating spray and got after it....
this tie rod took some convincing to undo.
stubborn ujoints
but once said and done it got it off and cleaned up with some flat black.
front tie rod off the 10 bolt
IMG_4396
tie rod vice
and got the diff down to the spindles for now. finding a 9/64th allen key for the one misc hub was fun but i managed to dig one out of my random tools.
front diff
As for the progression on this build i cannot thank rene and all the others who have helped with parts and knowledge and general confidence to tackle this thing as a first project.
two projects on the go
My two favorite means of transportation at the moment under works
I got this front drive shaft:
Going to redo the ujoints ( spicers )and order the 1' spacer for the front axle as to not lengthen my front shaft for now.
front DS I still need to disassemble the double cardon and find out what i need to rebuild that, Rene mentioned there possibly being a spring inside the middle.
i also aquired this front clip and tube grill i have been looking for, ( another great goody from dean! )
IMG_4381 I went and got some jackstands the other day and finally got the 10 bolt front on them to start cleaning up.
IMG_4386i got it drained and took a good look at the insides. Seem to be decent even though i will going up to 3.73s possible but may stick with the 3.42s
for now. Me and rene had noticed this beefy tie rod the 10 bolt had on it.
IMG_4392 IMG_4391i soaked it for an hour or two in penetrating spray and got after it....
this tie rod took some convincing to undo.
stubborn ujoints but once said and done it got it off and cleaned up with some flat black.
front tie rod off the 10 bolt IMG_4396tie rod vice and got the diff down to the spindles for now. finding a 9/64th allen key for the one misc hub was fun but i managed to dig one out of my random tools.
front diff As for the progression on this build i cannot thank rene and all the others who have helped with parts and knowledge and general confidence to tackle this thing as a first project.
two projects on the go My two favorite means of transportation at the moment under works
The double cardan joint is super easy to do. Just did one saturday for the first time.
The kit is like $20 or so at a parts store. I got the neapco brand one.
Pics in my build thread or i can link them here.
The kit is like $20 or so at a parts store. I got the neapco brand one.
Pics in my build thread or i can link them here.
That tie rod seem to be a diesel thing! I got on one mine too!
Was great to meet you Nick! Hope all
the
parts work out good!
Was great to meet you Nick! Hope all
the
parts work out good!
Awesome thanks, Ill check it out, do you know where abouts in your thread?
That tie rod seem to be a diesel thing! I got on one mine too!
Was great to meet you Nick! Hope all
the
parts work out good!
They wont go unused! and glad i got to drive the 454, and see the infamous tailgate ive heard so much about.
If you ever see that nv4500 heads toward the dump let me know. I wouldnt mind buying that, if its ever for sale.
Thanks again
You bet!
I've got the same tie rod under my 80, the axle came outta mid 80s k5, not sure if it was a diesel though.
Wait, let me get this right, you are going to remove an '89-'91 grille, and replace it with an older radiator support and a tube grille???
Martin
Martin
So that's what a clean garage floor looks like...been quite a while since mine looked like that. 
Seeing as that 6 lug SF 14 you got has 3.73's I'd go ahead and re-gear that 10 front to 3.73...have em both ready and it'll be a one day swap when the time comes.
Seeing as that 6 lug SF 14 you got has 3.73's I'd go ahead and re-gear that 10 front to 3.73...have em both ready and it'll be a one day swap when the time comes.
I'm not going to be using the tube grille I don't think but I will be changing it to the 80s style front grille, is that an unusual thing??
Torn down. If its stock you need to use a torch to melt the plastic injection out from the caps. No you wont beat it out with a hammer (Ive never seen it work)
While your at it, grind the stops on the yokes down a little bit. It will help it not bind if you get into some longer travel situations.
Cleaned up
remove ball with a puller
Hammer
This actually has a zerk that works with a needle fitting, never knew that...
Put the spring in, followed by the little brass washer (the kit doesn't come with a brass one, but the brass one that was in mine seemed a better fit as it wouldn't wear the ball out) Then put the 3 pieces that come in the kit on top, followed by another washer and then press the seal in. I peened the edges of the yoke over so the seal will not walk out. Press works super nice to put the seal in. Fill with lots of grease.
Then just reassemble it all. I put the yoke with the springs/seal in last as far as u joint install. Seemed to make it the easiest.
Hope that helps.
While your at it, grind the stops on the yokes down a little bit. It will help it not bind if you get into some longer travel situations.
Cleaned up
remove ball with a puller
Hammer
This actually has a zerk that works with a needle fitting, never knew that...
Put the spring in, followed by the little brass washer (the kit doesn't come with a brass one, but the brass one that was in mine seemed a better fit as it wouldn't wear the ball out
) Then put the 3 pieces that come in the kit on top, followed by another washer and then press the seal in. I peened the edges of the yoke over so the seal will not walk out. Press works super nice to put the seal in. Fill with lots of grease.
Then just reassemble it all. I put the yoke with the springs/seal in last as far as u joint install. Seemed to make it the easiest.
Hope that helps.
Also here is the kit. You can probably get it locally. Comes with 2 springs that are slightly different. Match one of them to your original. http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p34..._chevy_and_gmc_4x4_3r_series_doubl.html#photo
And I used two of these.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p46...universal_joint_3r_series_non_greaseable.html
And I used two of these.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p46...universal_joint_3r_series_non_greaseable.html
