Good work so far. Looks like you're staying pretty busy with this build.
CK5
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1990 K5 Build ( Ol' Blue ) : Rocker rust...
- Thread starter bix
- Start date
Thanks ! In ways i wish i wasn't moving, because there is more money here, and i could totally do a lot more to this truck. But i am getting it ready for the 15 hr drive/move. I want to make sure everything i can address before i go, is done. While the oil industry is in the shitter, i may swell go adventure... not to mention to a place, that has the best wheeling in the country!
After the axles, i want to tackle some rust repair in the floor before it gets out of hand. The engine is strong and the odometer reads 260k, no leaks, doesn't burn oil or anything. It seems to be very well taken care of. And the Sm465 seems as bulletproof as it ever has been. Today i even found out it has the weld on steering box repair already done. Which is VERY suppressing since the PO didn't have a clue what he was doing. I got a carfax on it, and it was owned by the same guy who bought it for almost 14 years i believe, 7 of which it wasn't registered. So I'm assuming thats when it was half ass, frame off'd.. since all the rivets have been replaced with bolts.. They didn't do a great job at a frame off but for it being an alberta truck.. it is in the cleaner half of the ones you find for about 5 grand here...
I noticed the weld on kit when we did the lift. I assumed you already knew, or I just never got around to pointing it out. I may have been distracted by all the frame bolts and add-a-leafs...
I noticed the weld on kit when we did the lift. I assumed you already knew, or I just never got around to pointing it out. I may have been distracted by all the frame bolts and add-a-leafs...
you mentioned it a few times but i never looked. For some reason i always thought it would have been a hack job.. but today it actually seems pretty well done.
and i think i was too distracted by new tires, and shiny black parts
Did you happen to measure the WMS-WMS on the 6 lug 4x4 14 bolt semi float?? If not, could you? 
Did you happen to measure the WMS-WMS on the 6 lug 4x4 14 bolt semi float?? If not, could you?
I did, but i don't remember exactly. I believe its almost 2 inches wider. I will try and remember to double check tomorrow and let you know!
@MTBLAZER89 Soo i measured the axle roughly, as best i could with one person. Not 100% sure what people mean by WMS.. If its the plate where the wheel studs are.. Which makes sense to me as its the wheel mounting surface. The total from stud plate to stud plate, is roughly 67 3/8 . And the inside is around 57 1/2. As the distance from the plate to the stud mounting surface is 5 inches. So im thinking its about 3.5 inches wider rougly. Itll be nice to have the rear tires stick out aprx 1.75 inches further on either side.
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WMS = Wheel mounting surface. Good guess.
Stock 1/2 ton rear is 65" WMS to WMS with the front being 67.5"
3/4 ton is 67" rear and 69 1/2" front.
You'll now be exactly the same width front and rear, no spacers, no BS, no different width rims.
Stock 1/2 ton rear is 65" WMS to WMS with the front being 67.5"
3/4 ton is 67" rear and 69 1/2" front.
You'll now be exactly the same width front and rear, no spacers, no BS, no different width rims.
puuuuufect.. its always bugged me a bit how they are tucked under he rear fender and stick out in the front. Before i put the 12.5 wide tires on i didn't notice as much, but after i definitely did. Did chevy do that for traction or something?
I wanted to ask some members on here since everyone has clearly had experience bleeding brakes.. After i changed out my lines, relocated my prop valve, and tore out the ABS that didn't function. I purchased a vacuum bleeder pump ( non electric ). But never got the sponginess out of the pedal, i read in a thread here that sometimes when the master cylinder is old, and it is completely bled, sometimes it never goes back to the same. Any way to test for air besides bleeding, and bleeding? New master cylinders aren't much, so it wouldnt be the end of the world if i had to get one. Any help would be appreciated.
Which in blazers I don't think mattered much.
In my daughter's school parking lot I could do a u turn in a lane they have.
Well I swapped my 6 lug sf14 under. It is obviously ( and awesomely) wider than the 10 bolt that was there I can make the exact same turn.
It's 2 concrete curbs. I touch the passengers side curb and crank it. If done right I just scrub the other side of the curb. It was exactly the same with both different rear axles.
I can see it helping in the longer trucks.
Being short wheelbase, i love the small turning radius they have. Im glad it wont change any with the rear. Thanks @blazinzuk
Detroit lockers for the SF rear are spensive. Lucked out and got a like new one off ebay from BC. Paid around $550, summit at the time was over $750 before shipping.
Yukon doesn't make them, well didn't when I bought mine.
The SF is kinda a neat axle, has shims on the one side and a adjuster on the other. Easy peasy to adjust.
Yukon doesn't make them, well didn't when I bought mine.
The SF is kinda a neat axle, has shims on the one side and a adjuster on the other. Easy peasy to adjust.
Has anyone experience an XJ shaft that is still too long when collapsed? The mounting surface of the steering box to the end of the shaft at the firewall is 21 3/4.. and the steering shaft fully collapsed is 23 inches.. Weird because its an almost exact fit besides the tiny notch for the bolt to go through the xj shaft..?
And for 248 USD i don't think a borgeson shaft is in the realms of possibilities
haha
And for 248 USD i don't think a borgeson shaft is in the realms of possibilities
Thanks! ill keep my eyes open for one, ARB's on eBay are 900 bucks
haha
