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1991 V1500 "The Yeti" - NEW crate 6.0 - FIRST START!

Lately the idle quality has been diminishing. Enough that my wife even noticed and she doesn't notice anything.

"Why does it sound like it's going to die?"

That prompted some investigating.

Anyways, I finally popped the hood and noticed that the vacuum lines coming off the cruise control dealio were rotten and just turning to dust. Consequently, the cruise never worked so this might just explain that.

So today on the way to work I stopped at Oreillys and replaced the lines and got it all hooked up.

So now the cruise works and it idles smooth as can be. Also, the converter locks up now. If you don't know, the brake light switch ties into the cruise control chingadera and recognizes vacuum, which is a permissive for the the lock up function.

Still vibrates...but that's another issue all together.
 
Well, after a vehicle has sat for a while, check all the fluids. I did that with the exception of one. Power steering. And as a result of me not checking it, I ran it dry and had to order a new one.

Was cruising with a buddy (guy I got it The Yeti from actually) to go help him mow a senior friend's yard and had the trailer in tow with mowing gear when I heard it start to make noise on some slower turns in the neighborhood. Checked the fluid when we arrived and it was bone dry. Adding fluid helped but the damage is done.

I've been around these older vehicles long enough to know better but mistakes can still be made, even by experts or self-proclaimed experts in my case.
 
Well, I killed the 700r4 this weekend towing my LJ home from Stillwater Ranch.

After a few nights pondering what I would do, I bought a NV4500. I had already purchased the clutch pedal assembly just in case I went that route so it only made sense to keep diving deeper. I'm gonna drop the transmission off at a shop today to have them go through it and call AA to pick up a bellhousing and start looking into flywheels and clutch.
 
jtrux said:
and call AA to pick up a bellhousing
Click to expand...

If you decide to use the 3" lift you might wanna think about using the stock bellhousing. A simple swedglok fitting mates the NV line to the stock line and with a 3" lift on a mild rig the slave cylinder should clear the diff no problem.
 
At this point, it is staying stock. I'm tired of working on it. It's my DD right now and once I finish up my MJ, I will focus more on the fun stuff like lifts and LS swaps. I wasn't planning on the transmission going out and wasn't really too interested in doing a NV swap right now but here we are lol.

I dug the pedals I bought from you out last night and laid them out. Gonna sand blast them this week and get some new pads for the brake and clutch.

The burb will still move around right now in 1st and reverse so I don't want to tear it apart until everything is sitting in boxes neatly stacked in my dining room :)
 
Well, it's at the shop getting rebuilt.

I need to get a 32 spline input gear for my NP241 if anyone knows a source.
 
Anyone else look at this picture and think "WTH? It's a fake axle? Why is there a plug in the pipe?"
Maybe just me? :haha::doah:

20190831_180337-jpg.313126
 
K85 Octane said:
Anyone else look at this picture and think "WTH? It's a fake axle? Why is there a plug in the pipe?"
Maybe just me? :haha::doah:
Click to expand...
That's actually a good tube 1/4" or better.
Yeah seing the tube inside the C with the ridge machined is an optical illusion
 
I'll be picking up the NV4500 tomorrow.

I ordered some fancy ARP fasteners for flywheel, pressure plate and even the bellhousing.

Also, ordered the LUK clutch and flywheel.

I'm ready to put the wallet up for a bit and turn some wrenches.
 
So, I'll be pulling the 700r4 next weekend. I have a new rear main seal, pan gasket and some new motor mounts to install, then I'll get the flywheel, clutch and bellhousing bolted up. I have to pull the carpet back and make a hole for he shift tower and once I do that, I'll raise the tranny in place. Then, at some point I'll get the transfer case torn apart and replace the input get to a 32 spline and get it in place. Then there's the pedals and all that jazz. That's actually the part I'm looking forward to the least.

All in all I've spared no expense in this little project that I wasn't planning on having to do at this time but things happen. I'm really excited to see how the driving experience changes with this transmission from an auto.

On another note, after towing my Jeep through the Texas Hill Country (far cry from being called mountains but still pretty significant grades at times) I definitely want more power. Everybody wants big blocks or LS swaps but I'm just not that convinced. I've always wanted to build a stroker small block ever since I was in HS and this would be a great vehicle for that. Also, I've replaced damn near every single component that bolts to the engine so I'm a little reluctant to pull it all out.

So here's my plan: buy a stroker rotating assembly (Scat is my preferred brand), AFR 180 heads, Holley TPI intake, roller cam, Megasquirt ECU. Would it be cheaper to go LS? Probably, but this is what I want.
 
Well, a few hours of greasy knuckles and here we are.

Gonna change rear main seal and pan leak and then start bolting up flywheel, clutch and bellhousing.

20200215_121657.jpg
 
Today was fairly productive.

Dropped pan and rear main seal and got them reinstalled with fresh gaskets. I forgot how much of a PITA it was to change a pan gasket in a vehicle. At least the transmission was completely out of the way so there was room to sit under the the truck and work comfortably.

20200217_125745.jpg
 
Clutch pedal fun.

Wrapped it up tonight but I will remove the old brake pedal in the morning and get the clutch pedal installed and reassemble all that fun stuff. Then I'll work on the small details to wrap this project up.

20200305_195216.jpg
 
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