TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
I had to shorten up the drag link connecting the box to knuckle. I cut about 1" off of the threads on each of the joints to get the steering wheel straight again.
CK5
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1991 v3500 - big dumb lifted forever truck
- Thread starter obijuank5
- Start date
I had to shorten up the drag link connecting the box to knuckle. I cut about 1" off of the threads on each of the joints to get the steering wheel straight again.
Also use Duplicolor, they have the best fan type spray pattern for good streak free results. This is the last complete rattle can job I did. My problem is usually patience when painting.
Sent you a PM on this, just FYI
Black wheels really change the way this thing looks. These are 265/75r16 that came from the cucv when I got it.
You are absolutely correct. It's on the punch list but finding trucks getting parted locally is slim as hell. I am trying to use as much original gm as possible.
Got some bump installed and tried out peel and seal which lays down exactly like dynamat. We will see how it does.
The 6x9 speaker brackets are from 73-87.com. pretty cool parts.
The 6x9 speaker brackets are from 73-87.com. pretty cool parts.
Nice work!
What. The. ****. Is. This.
Shit nice 3+3!
Ash... has to be ash from all the fires. Definitely...
Does it stop?!? Lol
Thought this was a cool picture
Thought this was a cool picture
Well it's 75 degrees again so I got some work done.
Mirrors courtesy of ACM. Thank you tremendously for the donation. They make the truck look so much better.
Also got the windows tinted and added some bump bump. Put some sound deadener in the rear doors to match the fronts.
Put in a NOS driver seatbelt. Old one worked but nos is nos. Pic is old vs new blue.
Little by little it's getting to be a damn nice driver.
Mirrors courtesy of ACM. Thank you tremendously for the donation. They make the truck look so much better.
Also got the windows tinted and added some bump bump. Put some sound deadener in the rear doors to match the fronts.
Put in a NOS driver seatbelt. Old one worked but nos is nos. Pic is old vs new blue.
Little by little it's getting to be a damn nice driver.
KO2's as well.... nice
Had some death wobble caused by some warped rotors so it got new rotors and wheel bearings. What a pain in the ass. Unit bearings and slip on rotors ftw.
Then I laid down some floor insulation and cleaned up my stock floor liner and tossed it in. Getting ready to install a better rear bench. Little by little. Trying to keep it all gm.
Then I laid down some floor insulation and cleaned up my stock floor liner and tossed it in. Getting ready to install a better rear bench. Little by little. Trying to keep it all gm.
Any more updates on this thing? When is the 12v/NV4500 swap going to happen?
Not much yet. Just been driving it daily. I am putting a starter on it now. Woooooo. Wrenching on these stock height is tough. I am spoiled with room to work under there.
Nv4500 and 205 are built and ready. 12 valve needs a rebuild. Decided to do a total rebuild rather than a reseal.
I have planned to lift it soon with the cucv lift kit and some new bilstiens from ord. That's what the 35s and new wheels are for.
If y'all haven't noticed I'm selling some crap laying around in order to build this motor.
I figured out how to make those 4k rpm tachometer work on the 12 valve. Now I just have to make it work in my stock cluster.
Also wondering if I should go cable speedometer or keep the vss. I haven't even started learning about that yet. I built the 205 for a mechanical drive so I'd have to fix that. Then I don't want many electronics in this truck. I am wire dumb.
But on the flip side, I ordered the all electronic vintage air for this truck. It's a non ac truck in texas. **** that.
Nv4500 and 205 are built and ready. 12 valve needs a rebuild. Decided to do a total rebuild rather than a reseal.
I have planned to lift it soon with the cucv lift kit and some new bilstiens from ord. That's what the 35s and new wheels are for.
If y'all haven't noticed I'm selling some crap laying around in order to build this motor.
I figured out how to make those 4k rpm tachometer work on the 12 valve. Now I just have to make it work in my stock cluster.
Also wondering if I should go cable speedometer or keep the vss. I haven't even started learning about that yet. I built the 205 for a mechanical drive so I'd have to fix that. Then I don't want many electronics in this truck. I am wire dumb.
But on the flip side, I ordered the all electronic vintage air for this truck. It's a non ac truck in texas. **** that.
If you built the NP205 for mech speedo, I say just source a cluster (just the speedo on the cluster) that was for a mech speedo, and also source the mech speedo cable itself (FYI...even the mech speedo cables on NP208/NP241's were the same for the NP205's. When I swapped from NP241 to my Titan/205 setup in my blazer...I'm running the same speedo cable and it works just fine).
Seems easier to change out one cluster items then deal with the VSS stuff...just my $0.02 though
Seems easier to change out one cluster items then deal with the VSS stuff...just my $0.02 though
