I vote for dual pumps cause I want to see how you do it.
CK5
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1991 Volcano K5 - Family Wheeler - Fully Independent Twin Turbo BBC
- Thread starter folkenheath
- Start date
Awesome!
Still thinking… you sold the Short box!
It was epic… move on!
Still thinking… you sold the Short box!
It was epic… move on!
The short box was, and still is, an awesome truck, a lot of good memories in that thing. But with 3 kids it just sat there the last few years, I can't even pick them up from school in it.Awesome!
Still thinking… you sold the Short box!
It was epic… move on!
The guy that bought it is going to have a lot of fun with it, and take care of it, him and his wife have a boy and so it's perfect for them. In fact my friend saw it at the dunes about a month ago and said hi to the guy, he's real nice.
This K5 will end up more epic, I get to start over and build something even better.
I asked the kids,
"What does this blazer have the truck didn't?"
Kids "A better engine?"
"Good guess, but not yet, something else.."
"These steps to get in?"
"True, but those are coming off before they catch and damage the rocker panels...something else"
"What is it Dad? "
That's when I fold the seat forward and show them the back seat, and they climb in and totally get it.
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I am test fitting the headers, I have to add a dent because of the old angle plug heads, but the larger primaries actually fit the exhaust port better than the 1 5/8 g body headers I had on there for over 20 years.
I also had to cut off the 2.5" reducers that were part of the collector, so its a true 3" collector.
These headers are stainless tubes but the 3/8" flanges are mild steel that were plated zinc, I have no idea what brand they are. I blasted most of the headers, and put high heat primer on the flanges so they don't rust again, at least not right away.
My old oil dipstick is not exactly in the most convenient location, but it works.
I also had to cut off the 2.5" reducers that were part of the collector, so its a true 3" collector.
These headers are stainless tubes but the 3/8" flanges are mild steel that were plated zinc, I have no idea what brand they are. I blasted most of the headers, and put high heat primer on the flanges so they don't rust again, at least not right away.
My old oil dipstick is not exactly in the most convenient location, but it works.
When are you going to fire it?
When I got this list complete...which I would like to say is the next week but some of it is likely too time consuming.
Some of it is real fast but, but the custom exhaust will take some time and depending on how far I go to hide the wiring or ECU that can be quite time consuming. Unless I just mount it under the hood since its temporary, but I have never done it that way. Although this one has AC and the dominator ECU is pretty large so I likely can't hide it where the TBI ECU is like I've done before, haven't decided that yet.
new spark plugs
install headers
install starter
swap fuel pump for 255 Walbro or install dual 450 LPH pumps?
install adj fuel bypass pressure regulator
plumb fuel system
flush heater core
heater hoses
radiator hoses
install transmission cooler
plumb transmission cooler
add coolant
add transmission fluid
add Tcase fluid
build dual 3" exhaust
remove factory TBI wiring and ECU
reprime oil system
install distributor
install 8 coils
install dominator ECU
install relay box (6 relays for both fans, fuel pump, coils, low beams, high beams)
make new starter cables
wire EFI
wire fans
wire fuel pump(s)?
write and install custom 388 DIS SBC/4L60E tune
bring engine back to life
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Pretty substantial list you have, I'm sure you will get it done.
I know I will get it done, it's just a matter of when.
I would of had the fuel tank back in today but I started working on the headers after preparing the dual 450s to go into the tank, I stopped just short of actually cutting the tank while I decide if its worth the extra time now to run the dual pumps and replumb the whole system. I think it might be, just slows me down a little.
I'll definitely need some different fittings and also I need to make the vent work with the filler vent too, I have a couple ideas just need to figure out what's the best option.
I would of had the fuel tank back in today but I started working on the headers after preparing the dual 450s to go into the tank, I stopped just short of actually cutting the tank while I decide if its worth the extra time now to run the dual pumps and replumb the whole system. I think it might be, just slows me down a little.
I'll definitely need some different fittings and also I need to make the vent work with the filler vent too, I have a couple ideas just need to figure out what's the best option.
That’s a lot of pump and ecu for that engine.
new spark plugs
install headers
install starter
install dual 450 LPH pumps
install fuel tank
install adj fuel bypass pressure regulator
plumb fuel system
flush heater core
heater hoses
radiator hoses
install transmission cooler
plumb transmission cooler
install temp sensors
add coolant
add transmission fluid
add Tcase fluid
build dual 3" exhaust
remove factory TBI wiring and ECU
reprime oil system
install distributor
install 8 coils
install dominator ECU
install relay box (6 relays for both fans, fuel pump, coils, low beams, high beams)
make new starter cables
wire EFI
wire fans
wire fuel pumps
write and install custom 388 DIS SBC/4L60E tune
bring engine back to life
I remembered why I don't use generic headers. Whatever brand these used headers are,when I removed them I noticed they were dented on the inside, they won't clear the starter. I had to mill my new CVR starter mount to clear, basically angle part of the mount that would be for a 153 tooth ring gear. I didn't trust the 30 year old starter that's been sitting for 9 years. I bought a CVR super starter that would be good for a 572 BBC as well.
When I cut the 2.5" collector off and TIG welded some 3/8" thick stainless 3" collectors I had sitting around leftover from another project. But I had to put a turn in the right one because it was running right into the transmission, but I made the turn to clear the transmission brace at the same time with a scrap piece of 3" stainless bend from another project as well.
Got some minors stuff done...
Also learned it's possible to put the belt on two different ways, and it will still be tight.
At first I put it on going around the crank - power steering - water pump - alternator, it had very good alternator contact patch, and was tight.
However, I noticed the belt was almost touching itself at the water pump/tensioner clearance. I wondered if the tensioner and idler pulleys were switched, but I never took the tensioner pulley off the tensioner, so that can't be.
The next day I looked at it, and thought, hmm, the crank contact is not much, I wonder....so I switched it to this image...crank - water pump - power steering - alternator, and then it fit more normal, but with less alternator contact.
By tonight I should have more plumbing supplies from Fragola, I know a guy.
Since I decided to move forward with the dual 450 Walbros, I have already cut the tank inlet to about 4" to clear the dual pumps, and drilled for the sending unit and deburred both with a mirror, then cleaned inside the tank first with a vacuum then the hose, and dried..
I am trying to decide if I move forward with using the factory gauges, or use the small Holley ProDash I have sitting there with a bezel. The only issue is when I bought the bezel I didn't plan for A/C, not sure if the AC on this thing still works, it looks like it could. I might move forward with the dash swap and just let the AC duct blow out the bottom for now. I don't currently plan to keep the AC when I go big block and soft top. Then I don't need two oil pressure and two temp sensors and I don't need to hook up the Holley speedo output to the factory DRAC. Although swapping the dash is definitely more work than hooking up that stuff, and if the AC does work I lose the ability to aim it at me.
install dual 450 LPH pumps
program fuel sending unit
install fuel tank
install adj fuel bypass pressure regulator
plumb fuel system
flush heater core
heater hoses
radiator hoses
install belt
install transmission cooler
plumb transmission cooler
temp sensor
oil pressure sensor
mount coolant overflow tank
add coolant
add transmission fluid
add Tcase fluid
build dual 3" exhaust
remove factory TBI wiring and ECU
reprime oil system
install distributor
install 8 coils
install dominator ECU
install relay box (6 relays for both fans, fuel pump, coils, low beams, high beams)
make new starter cables
wire EFI
wire fans
wire fuel pumps
write and install custom 388 DIS SBC/4L60E tune
bring engine back to life
Also learned it's possible to put the belt on two different ways, and it will still be tight.
At first I put it on going around the crank - power steering - water pump - alternator, it had very good alternator contact patch, and was tight.
However, I noticed the belt was almost touching itself at the water pump/tensioner clearance. I wondered if the tensioner and idler pulleys were switched, but I never took the tensioner pulley off the tensioner, so that can't be.
The next day I looked at it, and thought, hmm, the crank contact is not much, I wonder....so I switched it to this image...crank - water pump - power steering - alternator, and then it fit more normal, but with less alternator contact.
By tonight I should have more plumbing supplies from Fragola, I know a guy.
Since I decided to move forward with the dual 450 Walbros, I have already cut the tank inlet to about 4" to clear the dual pumps, and drilled for the sending unit and deburred both with a mirror, then cleaned inside the tank first with a vacuum then the hose, and dried.. I am trying to decide if I move forward with using the factory gauges, or use the small Holley ProDash I have sitting there with a bezel. The only issue is when I bought the bezel I didn't plan for A/C, not sure if the AC on this thing still works, it looks like it could. I might move forward with the dash swap and just let the AC duct blow out the bottom for now. I don't currently plan to keep the AC when I go big block and soft top. Then I don't need two oil pressure and two temp sensors and I don't need to hook up the Holley speedo output to the factory DRAC. Although swapping the dash is definitely more work than hooking up that stuff, and if the AC does work I lose the ability to aim it at me.
install dual 450 LPH pumps
program fuel sending unit
install fuel tank
install adj fuel bypass pressure regulator
plumb fuel system
heater hoses
radiator hoses
install belt
install transmission cooler
plumb transmission cooler
temp sensor
oil pressure sensor
mount coolant overflow tank
add coolant
add transmission fluid
add Tcase fluid
build dual 3" exhaust
remove factory TBI wiring and ECU
reprime oil system
install distributor
install 8 coils
install dominator ECU
install relay box (6 relays for both fans, fuel pump, coils, low beams, high beams)
make new starter cables
wire EFI
wire fans
wire fuel pumps
write and install custom 388 DIS SBC/4L60E tune
bring engine back to life
I have scratched my head multiple times trying to figure out the intended belt routing. Not just with an accessory setup I made up, but also on stock ones with no label. Then when it's on, it seems so obvious that there's no need to record it. 
It would be cool to make some kind of durable belt routing label. Maybe after drawing it, Vistaprint could do a $10 special on it.
It would be cool to make some kind of durable belt routing label. Maybe after drawing it, Vistaprint could do a $10 special on it.
Yeah just laughed at it and then remembered a took a picture before I took it apart and confirmed my second installation was correct.
I plan to make a brace between the alternator and tensioner since I am not running the brace that bolts to the exhaust manifold.
I plan to make a brace between the alternator and tensioner since I am not running the brace that bolts to the exhaust manifold.
program fuel sending unit
install fuel tank
install adj fuel bypass pressure regulator
plumb fuel system
plumb transmission cooler
oil pressure sensor
add coolant
add transmission fluid
add Tcase fluid
build dual 3" exhaust
remove factory TBI wiring and ECU
reprime oil system
install distributor
install 8 coils
install dominator ECU
install relay box (6 relays for both fans, fuel pump, coils, low beams, high beams)
make new starter cables
wire EFI
wire fans
wire fuel pumps
write and install custom 388 DIS SBC/4L60E tune
bring engine back to life
The trans cooler is a Derale, 67,000 BTU extreme cooler. But I set the fan and shroud aside for now and mounted it in front of the radiator. Later it will likely get mounted above the IRS center housing with the fan controlled by the ECU. The cooler itself is about 13 x 14" and about 2" thick, holds almost a quart of fluid.
I thought I snapped a pic of the dual pumps and max tank depth, but I didn't. I put a stock picture in there. I had to cut the hole in the tank to ~4", and I also used fuel tank epoxy to seal the two layers together, I think they are only tack welded. It is dual 450 walbros, good for around 1700 HP w/ EFI. I will only be running one right now, but will have both hooked up as then I will have a backup I can activated with a virtual switch or just swap the connector back by the tank.
The sending unit is the Holley Lydar unit that has no moving parts, I calibrated to my tank with some cardboard at the proper depth. And I calibrated it to my ProDash so it reads correctly, had to add a 680 ohm resister to mimic a 90 ohm fuel sender.
The 5/8 fill vent will hook to that 5/8 barb, and I will add a 5/16 rollover valve/vent, with a 5/8 - 5/16 brass T.
That's the cooler i have on my trans use it as stand alone. Is remote mounted under the rear bed passenger side. I have been manual switching it, have a new sensor for it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003N88SKU?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3. I tried Derale's temp switch, it is garbage, hope this one works better.
Looks like you’re doing hack work without much detail on what’s going on.
JK! Super nice and opposite of what I said.
JK! Super nice and opposite of what I said.
I can get those through my distributor, I like that better than the stuff that goes in the fins. Though these days I just use the ECU to control fans based on the sensors.
I looked at mounting in the back now, but there wasn't much room with the mufflers, axle, and fuel tank in a blazer right now. I wanted to keep it in the middle and not outward where it would get hit by tire debris. But later on I'll need the space where it's at for an intercooler. But then the rear pumpkin will be fixed so I think I can mount it above that and then use the fan and just have the Holley control the fan via internal trans temp.
I went to plumb it but I forgot to order the two NPS fittings for the trans, those are on the way now. I am running it in 8AN.
Looks like you’re doing hack work without much detail on what’s going on.
JK! Super nice and opposite of what I said.
Yeah even though some of it is temporary I can't take shortcuts. I ordered stainless clamps for the exhaust, I don't want rusty bare steel clamps.
That's the same cooler I put on the shop truck, I have it mounted under the passenger side of the cab with the fans pointed up. Initially I was controlling it with the second Derale sensor I bought (the first one fell apart because they are garbage), but now I control it based on line temps. I need to adjust the set points, currently it turns on at 160° and off at 155°, but while I was cruising around yesterday I was seeing pan temps around 145°F while cruising on the freeway. That's probably a bit cooler than it needs to be
.
install fuel tank
remove factory fuel lines
install adj fuel bypass pressure regulator
plumb fuel system
plumb transmission cooler
oil pressure sensor
add coolant
add transmission fluid
add Tcase fluid
clean and re-oil air filter
make brace for alternator
build dual 3" exhaust
remove factory TBI wiring and ECU
reprime oil system
install distributor
install 8 coils
install dominator ECU
install relay box (6 relays for both fans, fuel pump, coils, low beams, high beams)
make new starter cables
wire EFI
wire fans
wire fuel pumps
write and install custom 388 DIS SBC/4L60E tune
bring engine back to life
Made an aluminum bracket for the regulator to use existing holes from the factory fuel relay and corded light I removed.
Put the oil pressure sensor on top rear of the block
Made an alternator brace out of 3/8 x 1" aluminum bar stock, 2 holes and 2 bends to brace it to the tensioner brace.
Cleaned and reoiled the old K&N air filter
It will look a lot better when the factory wiring is cleaned up and fresh wire loom covers it up. Its crazy how brittle the factor wire loom gets in these western vehicles, you touch it and it crumbles into little pieces, but that's a lot easier to fix than the rust!
install adj fuel bypass pressure regulator
plumb fuel system
plumb transmission cooler
add coolant
add transmission fluid
add Tcase fluid
make brace for alternator
build dual 3" exhaust
remove factory TBI wiring and ECU
reprime oil system
install distributor
install 8 coils
install dominator ECU
install relay box (6 relays for both fans, fuel pump, coils, low beams, high beams)
make new starter cables
wire EFI
wire fans
wire fuel pumps
write and install custom 388 DIS SBC/4L60E tune
bring engine back to life
Made an aluminum bracket for the regulator to use existing holes from the factory fuel relay and corded light I removed.
Put the oil pressure sensor on top rear of the block
Made an alternator brace out of 3/8 x 1" aluminum bar stock, 2 holes and 2 bends to brace it to the tensioner brace.
Cleaned and reoiled the old K&N air filter
It will look a lot better when the factory wiring is cleaned up and fresh wire loom covers it up. Its crazy how brittle the factor wire loom gets in these western vehicles, you touch it and it crumbles into little pieces, but that's a lot easier to fix than the rust!
Is this the same trans cooler we picked out for mine? Looks great!
