1992 454 swap into a 86. (now changed to a 496)

[warwgn]

todays events!
now you see me

now you don't

Yep got all the electric fuel pumps off and the lines run nice and neat. Got some other stuff done too.

so seems to idle just fine but as you can see when I put it in drive and it will die.......not sure what that is all about, maybe the torque converter has a really low stall speed? Put it in gear and it jumps forward so it is putting a load on it. Also when I turned it off it is trying to diesl on me for a second so something is up with the timing. it is at 8* with no vacum and with vacum it jumps to 14* at idle, think I need to back the vacum down and advance the mechanical may help some. Still just dont think it is dialed in right at all, but need to bolt a seat in and try driving it tomorrow and play with timing and seehow it acts.​

 

[warwgn]

Place your bets!! I am thinking it must be the carb to manifold gasket has a leak, I got around 12-15HG of vacum which it too low for my altitude of 6000' it should be around 17Hg. Anyway if that gasket is leaking then the timing would be off (causing it to deisel) and explains why when I put it in gear it drops vacum and tries to die. I am convinced it has a vacum leak somewhere and my first bet is on that!

 

[folkenheath]

It only jumps 6 degrees with your vacuum advance at 12 - 15 inHg? And you only have 8 degrees initial? I would get a different vacuum can if I were you. How much timing do you have a 4000 RPM with the vacuum advance disconnected? Vacuum leaks can definitely cause those symptoms too, I hope you find the problem.

I think the engine wants more timing than that, however, dieseling is usually caused by excess heat in the engine, and/or too high of RPM when you shut it off. ALso, if more air is available (vacuum leak), it can pull in more air even though the throttle is closed, which makes it easy to diesel too. Also, I have heard dieseling can be caused by too much timing advance, but find it hard to believe because when you shut the key off there is no spark, it's dieseling from cylinder pressure, or heat at that point, not timing. I could not see the video.

BTW, that peice of fiber/plastic from your 4L80E is the front selective washer that goes behind the pump to set front endplay. It probably got too hot, got brittle and broke. If the external trans filter was cold when the trans was hot, that means it didn't have any flow, which means your cooler or external filter got plugged or blocked, and the tranny was not cooling or lubricating. So it got ruined from heat most likely, which is the most common cause of auto tranny failure.

Also, the reason you have never had a problem with FRAM filters is because you never know there is a problem unless you block off your filter bypass. When one of the filters goes bad and plugs itself up with the crappy fibers on a typical engine, the oil filter bypass opens up and everything continues as normal, it's just filtering NONE of your oil.

On race engines, you can't use the crappy fram filters because they plug up, and with the filter bypass plugged for 100% oil filtering (no filter bypass allowed), you lose oil pressure with a FRAM because the filter blocks flow, and then the pressure relief spring in the pump just dumps all the oil right back into the pan, causing zero oil pressure through the engine. This has happened on brand new FRAM filters, they are not good.

Very nice build by the way, nice engine, nice rust free rig, good job building everything. I like it.

 

[warwgn]

yeah I am starting to re-think this some. So the ported vacum, the one on the driverside bottom of the Q-Jet 800, should not be pulling much vacum at Idle right? So the vacum advance should prolly not be jumping up 6* it should stay pretty close to where it is when unhooked?

I do have an adjustable vacum advance so could be that it is set to high and the small amount of vacum at idle is still enough to jump the timing up. Think I will disconnect the vacum, plug the port and set the timing to 10* then adjust the advance until it jumps the timing up no more than 2* for a total of 12* at idle. Then see what it does as I slowly roll the throttle on.

now the diesling was extremely slight, it is a 10:1 compression but was not hot. The "run on" was only a second so not lkie is was crazy but still should not do it. My main concern is timing and vacum, and think I got both problems working together.

 

[folkenheath]

If it's ported it shouldn't have any vacuum at idle, but you don't want to use that for your advance unless you are driving to the emissions test center or something.

Just disconnect the vacuum advance, rev the engine up until the mechanical advance reaches its maximum,(3-4k RPM) and then set the timing to 34 degrees. Let it back to idle, then reconnect the vacuum advance to FULL manifold vacuum, not ported vacuum, and it "should" work fine if everything else is correct. The engine will most likely WANT the extra advance at idle, it will idle more consistent, cooler, and won't drop down as much when you put it in gear.

After you do that, then readjust your idle RPM screw, then you can adjust your vacuum advance, so your maximum total advance at cruise RPM is about 52 degrees.

If you know what to do you can also readjust hte idle A/F ratios screws once you have the timing reset, adjust them for the MOST vacuum at idle, and make sure to keep the RPM consistent , they will effect each other, so keep adjusting both until you get the most vacuum at your intended idle RPM.

But make sure you don't have a vacuum leak or the idle A/F ratio and RPM adjustments will be wrong.

 

[warwgn]

so messed with it a bit. tried running it up around 3500 and set it at 32 and at idle thats around 26* seemed like alot but?? Anyway tride lots of things but seems to be a vacum leak still so hooked up the gauge and it is low still, so changed the gasket between the carb and intake and it got better but still sorta crappy. now the weird thing is if I close the choke off a little it jumps the vacum up to about normal and rpm goes up about 500?

A/F is set at 3 turns out each, prolly need to turn those in more, may help it. hmm just crazy stuff. I made some videos of before and after the carb gasket and they are loading now, will post up shortly for some help to diagnose.

ok here is the before

[video][/video]

and the after

[video][/video]

ok so just watched them both and be damed if the vacum stayed about the same?? for some reason I thought it went up after the gasket change.

 

[warwgn]

So tryed again today with not much luck. Adjusted the A/F with no results, but it sure seems to be something with the primary butterfly, as seen in the video if I close it off some it acts way better?? And I am still not happy with the timing either something just aint right. Had to button it up enough to go for a test drive and it pops on the top end a little. Still must be way to rich or too lean not sure which will need to pull the plug and see what I got.
well while I was at it I had to put the grill back in to hold the turn signals up.

and decided to try out the new color paint on the headlight bezels, and I really like the color too, metalic charcoal grey.

primed up

just imagine the truck metalic black with a metalic charcoal stripes down the sides where it is tan now. Then the interior will be the same metalic charcoal on all the metal, and trying to decide on the rest. Anyway I like this color, the pics just dont do it justice.

 

[noJeepshere]

I like the color scheme

 

[warwgn]

always seem to have 5 or 6 things going at one and never can put it back together..............so I started number 7 today! Figured while I got the air ducts out I shouls get the new insulation put in behind the dash, I didn't get much done just the far left side top. This quick roof stuff sticks to everything real good!!
here is the before

and the after

got to take it all the way across, but not all the way down, the factory stuff seems to still be in really good shape, not to mention I would have to remove the heater core to do it right, and I dont want to mess with that unless I have too!

 

[y5mgisi]

Never ending motor problems are stupid... I feel for you. Sure hope you get it figured out! Insulation looks good tho!

 

[warwgn]

that is for sure, I am starting to think it may be running lean, guess I need to get off my ass and pull a spark plug and check.

and stop on all the easy stuf

This is a lot more of a project than I thought it was! My hat is off to all you guys who have done this!
little more progress today!

and yeah I could not resist, didn't want to leave it halfass and just had to pull the heater core assembly out to do behind it.

running out of light and the Kids need to eat, so the rest might get done tomorrow!

 

[y5mgisi]

You will be happy you did.

 

[warwgn]

OH MY GOD!! took 5 hours today but got it done, or at least got the firewalll done!

and while I was at it I painted the kick panels the same metalic charcoal color. I like how they turned out and think the color will work perfect with my carpet, which you can see the sample on the drivers side.

this was such a pain to do and I was actually sick of it after about 3 hours today, not sure how I will manage to do the rest of the inside! it took one whole 6"x25' roll and part of a second roll just to do what you see here! I think I will need another 10-15 rolls to complete the project, the inside of a suburban is huge, lots of floor, even more roof, and all the sides!! Oh what did I get myself into.......

 

[warwgn]

been a couple days since I posted so rather than tell you what has been going on I will just show you and you can figure it out!

 

[warwgn]

 

[warwgn]

 

[warwgn]

 

[warwgn]

 

[warwgn]

http://s136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/warwgn/?action=view&current=VIDEO0003.mp4

 

[warwgn]

http://s136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/warwgn/?action=view&current=VIDEO0022.mp4