CK5
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1992 454 swap into a 86. (now changed to a 496)

not yet, but when it puts the 550 - 600 ftlbs to the ground in a few days then it will be "ooooooohhh aaaaaaaaahhhh ":D
 
I'm diggin that man....that sweet BBC sound is grrrrrreat.
 
fo sho! I tried calling the shop today but got no answer, I think he is closed on Mondays?? I would just do it myself but it is just too cold and he gave me a full package deal, build and install for under 4K!!

the low down is:
496, 10:1 pistons, cam comp cams 11-246-3 as follows:

lift INT .552 EXH .555,
[email protected] INT 274 EXH 286
lobe seperation 110*
fully balanced to 7K RPM (will never see that)
sealed power rings
and lots of goodies

It is gonna have a little attitude me thinks!!

dont tell uncle sam though, we left him out the deal to keep it cheap!!
 
you know just a thought but how strong is a NP208? With the 496 delivering through the TH400 to the 208 and into 4.56 gears turning 37's, how long do you think the 208 is gonna last? I am not gonna 4x4 real hard but will pull the 28' camper a lot. Should prolly start looking for a 205 huh.
 
so stopped by at lunch today and of course he was not as far as I had hoped but still says he is on track for tomorrow starting it up.
all empty waiting for the new power plant, look at that lonely Hughes Converter just hanging there all sad.
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the old 454 stripped down in shame!
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and the fresh new hotness! Getting ready for oil and being primed.
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Valves are adjusted and locked down, and he is prolly got oil in it now and priming the block as I am typing this. He said should be ready to fire it up tomorrow so hope it all goes well and I can get it tomorrowbut will just have to wait and see.
 
so lot has happened, here is the recap from the other forum.


Picked it up today!! The baattery had to be swapped over to my spare, the timing still aint right, and the oil needs to be changed. I had to pay $1000.00 more so the total out the door was 4k.
It has a bad flat spot, and need some serious tuning, but it does run great cruising down the road. I got some weird noise under a load, almost like the fan is hitting the shroud, but it's not that sounds like it coming from the back of the engine somewhere?? Oh well I will figure it out tomorrow and see waht id goin on. Wouldnt say I was happy yet, but glad it's back in my hands, will make a video and pics tomorrow.

well seems to have all the same issues as befor with a few new ones.
Vacum is low and erratic, and the small miss is still there can hear just barely. In addition there seems to ba huge vacum leak somewhere, the battery went bad, the odd noise coming from the tranny or converter or flexplate when you put it under a load. and it seems the trany lins got into the drive shaft and one is ready to break.
So I tried setting the timing but havent drove it yet due to the tranny line issue. I set it at 10 degrees, then backed the vacum advance down to 14 degrees and is seemed a little better in the driveway. I tried adjusting the carb to idle it down, and it wont drop below 1k rpm, the A/F mixture screwes dont seem to have any effect either, can turn them in all the way and it still runs, it should die if I do that. So yeah got a few problems to sort out now. I do still think the engine is good and can be awesome after i get through all the other issues.
To top it off it's colder than **** here so jut misrable to try and work on it. My main concern is the tranny noise?? Dont understand that one at all, it did not do that before so I am at a loss as to how he could have made this start??
Just pissed off now and frustrated, got to stop and chill for a day or two and start back on it easy like. Will start with the trans lines and go from there.
guess I better load some pics and stuff huh!
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tranny lines all in the wrong place kinda hard to see but there is the smash
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some video up next

well while waiting for that to load.............
I patched the line and it still did it a little but decided to go drive it, not much power at all! (scary) but it sorta got better, then came home and tried to make the noise again and it didnt? well it spun both back tires and left some little divits to sit in but no noise, so wanna drive it again, go to back up and cant pull out of the 1" deep holes??? what the F, got out checked the trany fluid again and yep right where it's supposed to be. I get back in and manage to get back up finally and drive off for a longer drive, it seems ok but still no real power at all. I went down the highway running bout 65 and it is smooth as silk, when I mash it it speeds up no loud knocking noise and feels purdy good.
I get turned around and stand on it, shift to second still pulling good (not evil good) but pulling, then hit third and never let off. I watch the speedo go past 85 and keep going, and switch to the tach and watch it climb to 5500 rpm before I let off, and it was still pulling the same!! Prolly around 120-130 mph! I ease back down and oil press is still 60, temp is 185, trans temp is 155. Still seems good but dang I am starting to think it may be trans related??

oh here is the knocking under load.


next video is of the cam rumble, and tried to make the noise as above and it dies on me then cant get it started again.
Also the miss seems to have disappared? didnt recheck the vacum again, and plan to put the new battery and fix the crappy wiring, if that solves the starter issues then good if not, got to try and shim the starter or just buy a new one that is smaller but high torque! Havent heard any pinging but need to get gas so gonna throw in the 104 octane booster to see what that does. Also gonna order the mechanical fuel pump to, but will wait to see if I need a starter too so can order it all at once.
So to sum up I am lost on what the noise is, and it seems to have gone somewhat? The plug wires seem good now, but the timing and carb are not adjusted right I am sure of it. Much as I hate to think about it I might take it to another shop that has a sunpro computer to hook up to it and run some diognostics. Might even have it adjusted by someone if I can figure it out. I still think it has a big vacume leak causing issues so need to track that down first I guess.
ok well here is the last video of the day

and I guess it has a posi by the looks of the divits!!
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ok so cant find the battery cables I want to fix the starting issues. So I just ordered 20' of 2 AWG in red and 20' in black, a hammer crimper, 5 copper lugs of each of these terminal sizes, 1/4, 5/16,3/8, and 1/2. Now just gotta get these
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5 bucks for a set at the local Big R hardware. Then still need to get a solenoid and relay, and switch to hook up the dual battery set up.
or I might get this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-40102/[/URL] I think I can put the parts together for cheaper than that maybe. The main thing is I want to be able to flip the switch and apply full power of both batteries to the starter when it is hella cold and make it start easy. Guess I should get a better starter too, but that will come later, main thing I want for now is to get all my electrical mess sorted out once and for all. Then get to the rest.
Also got the new mechanical fuel pump on the way along with 25' of 3/8" stainless steel braided hose. Gonna replace all the tranny lines, cooler lines, filter lines and rubber fuel lines that I got running all around the place. I still need to sort out the new lines for the engine oil cooler too, but that is down the road a bit since I am not driving it anyway. I will start looking for any vacum leaks while I am cleaning up the wiring and painting the engine compartment. Just to much ugliness going on in there, that is prolly what it dont wanna run right, need to get all the half ass out and do it all correct!!

figured I better throw in the starting of the project. more to come tomorrow.
what a mess!!
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totally half ass on the positive side!!
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lots of clutter and just ugly!
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first step done!
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Stuff should be arriving today, the fuel pump and Stainless Steel braided hose should for sure.
Anyway I started running in my mind how to do the new trans lines, my thought is lower port of the trans along frame rail to bottom of the core support where the remote filter is, then to back under a short ways to the lower port of the radiator, then top radiator port through core support to the external cooler, then from the cooler back down and along the frame rail to the top port of the trans. I will put the tempature sensor just before the remote filter so I can read the temp of fluid coming out of the trans Pan, will put it in the pan on of these days.

Does that all sound right/good to yall? That is correct for the flow right, the lower port is the out line on a TH400 right?
 
got the trans lines run. I like it, still need to tie them up but here they are.
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also got my cable and a few other goodies, but no 2 AWG crimper yet so cant put them in till that shows up.
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new crimper, also does ingnition wires witht the extra die.
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extra die
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gonna be getting serious with the wiring from now on.
 
You're trans lines look awfull close the the header there in the top to pics..... or is it just the angle of the pic :dunno:
 
just the angle, they are about 8" away and still have not been tied back yet.
 
Did you flare the end of the trans lines before putting on the flex lines?
Did you check your fan blade to be sure it wasn't hitting anywhere? Maybe a shining spot on the blade or some newly formed tips on the ends of the blades?
Is the alternator fan blade hitting anything?
Are the torque convertor bolts tight?
Motor mounts in good condition?

Just a few ideas....
 
all the fans and junk are good. I did see what looked like the converter bolts have been hitting the starter just a tad? Now I know when it is under a heavy load the pressure will force the converter forward and this could be the case, just enough to make the bolts kiss the starter and make the noise I heard?

on the up side:

cleaned up one side and made two battery cables so far, will get the rest of the pics up later. I didn't get much time to work on it only had 3 days off and really good weather and a pregnant wife, you do the math!!
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so got the cables made or at least 3 of them
here is the crimper, smaller than I thought it would be but works like a champ
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the main bttery positive and neg cables. The long sleeving on the pos cable is the starter solenoid side.
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and the main pos battery cable to dual charge solenoid that will be on the driver side fenderwell, it will run through core support in front of radiator then back in on the other side.
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I sealed up the ends with some thick adhesive lined shrink tube, the glue will keep all the wet and stuff out.
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so just got to make the aux battery pos to remote solenoid cable and the aux gnd cable, then still have a lot of other wiring to replace and upgrade. After all that get done future plans are relays for the headlights to hook them directy to the battery and run 10GA pos and gnd off the aux battery into the cab for radio, inverter, tv's and what ever else I might decide to rig up.
hope to start putting cables in tomorrow but it's supposed to be snowing tomorrow and cold so might not get to it until later in the week, but when I do will post up some pics as usual.
 
so here is the update of what is going on. all the wiring so far!
been sitting here since I got it home in January.
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some inside shots of storage and parts and junk that is in process and never put back in the tool shed.
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the engine compartment with stuff just hanging everywhere!
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and what I did today, tore the dash out and the cruise control and made a point of no return decision and cut off the OEM connector for the instrument panel.
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and the vacume line and wires for the cruise control
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inside the black box of the cruise control brain
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and got the auxilary battey cable mostly in place.
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also got some 10AWG wire to so I can make a new charging system, the fuseable links are history and I am simplfying the harness too. Going with 30A circut breakers to regulate power and a few relays for accessories.

got the input power for the fuse block and the controls wires for the alternator and distributor and Tach all hooked up.
back side of the fuse panel all tidy now
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view along the top just above the brake booster, you can see the junction block sorta.
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dist and tach feeds

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far side view, but as usual still got a long way to go. Might get the breaker and batter feed hooked up tomorrow.
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mounted the circut breaker and hooked up the battery to it and the junction block, also got the power wire run from the alternator to the battery. No pics of that stuff though cause is is all laying loose and ugly, I need to put the mechanical fuel pump on so I can ditch the electric pump wiring. But wouldnt ya know it the rod for the pump is in the other truck which my wife took to work so that put a damper on the progress! I would just ditch the wiring now but want to use the electric pump to prime the mechanical pump and fill all the lines before I take it all out.
So had a hour or so of light left but what to do?? Go to the inside for a while!!
had to take the seat out
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I know there are wires under there too!
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and they are ugly too!
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little better now
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there we go much better now, all ready for the "quick roof" treatment!
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still got all the rest to do up behind the dash but a lot better than this!
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put the pump rod in the burb before I left for work so was able to get it mounted up today.
oh how shiney!
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all bolted up
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braided lines in place and primed up with gas, even kept the pressure gauge.
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whle I was in there I went ahead and snapped a pic of the circut breaker.
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hmm what will be next?? More wiring I guess.
 
I found the source of the noise from a while back, remember it was coming from the flexplate? I was right it was from that, but it aint cracked and the bolts arent loose either, it was from a fat weld!
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so how does that make noise you ask? It hits the starter!
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that explains why it's only under load, the pressure on the torque converter forces the flexplate forward and the weld rubs the starter! The funny thing is the starter I had on there that crapped out on me is relieved to eliminate this, so all I got to do is machine the starter to somewhat match the other and problem solved.
why not just grind the weld down you say? because it is externaly balanced and if you remember it was all ballanced to 7500 RPM so would rather just leave it like it is.
old starter and current starter, these got swapped around when I put the 454 in and took the 350 out so not sure if there is a difference between small block and big block starters but there two are different.
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so got the grinding done!
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also did a little work on the driver side
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and now that the starter is bolted up and the battery cable hooked up I got the final resting place for the battery and 2GA cables set in stone.
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and yes I painted the starter before I put it in........
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you know how I dooze it!!
 
ok, got em all out, and I tell you the middle row had a crap load of bolt holding it all in.
Had help from my 10yr old daughter.
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always one bolt that just wont come out, it even broke my T47 bit!! It will come out at a later date!
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even took out the dash pad.
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got it cleaned up real easy too.
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I figured out the trick to getting all the tar and crap off the floor, I have heard all your tricks in the past of wire wheel and chemicals and putty knives. But I found the easiest way yet...........






























a pack of kids that want popcicles!!!
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I am a genius!!!

So will get on to some sanding and painting of the dash metal tomorrow.
 
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