$200 K5 (454 K5 now) *too much junk in the trunk

[HankScorpio]

Engine bay pretty well dressed out now.
Replaced the shock tower brace. It was first built with the small block. Not much room with the fuel rails, brace, air cleaner and hood all needing to play nice.

 

[HankScorpio]

What do you guys run for front yokes on your 205's? I am working on my crossmembers before I get the new exhaust run. 1 crossmember for the antiwrap bar in the back and then a crossmember for the trans mount using the regular SM465 to NP205 adapter. I currently have 1410 u joints both ends of the rear tom woods driveshaft. I will be getting a new front driveshaft since I swapped to the D60. The D60 also has a 1410 yoke. I think I should stay with the double cardan on the front shaft, should I be putting a larger yoke on the front output or swap to a flange like the original 241 had on it? I guess I am just not sure of my options for front outputs. Need to decide on the front output so I can have clearance on the front crossmember.

I own a couple 203 range boxes but currently do not have a doubler. The truck is going back on the road for a while before I build a doubler. I know I will have to retube the driveshafts later but it would be nice to have the correct yokes on everything now. I want to drive it for a while before I work on the drivetrain again. Probably a SM465/203/205 setup but I also own a NV4500 that could end up in the mix. The NV4500 is probably going to my crew cab to back up a 8.1L swap but it has a SM465/ round 205 in it that works great as is.

 

[nvrenuf]

I run a 1410 yoke on the front of my 205 (32 spline shaft), the driveshaft has a single 1410 at each end with no operating angle issues. I’ve got 7” lift with a 4spd / Doubler.

 

[HankScorpio]

It wou

I run a 1410 yoke on the front of my 205 (32 spline shaft), the driveshaft has a single 1410 at each end with no operating angle issues. I’ve got 7” lift with a 4spd / Doubler.

It would be nice to do a 1410 and just have.them all the same joint.

 

[Truckman4life]

I just seen these guys lately and thought damn that would be a good high angle front driveshaft option. Its looks like a tractor pto shaft. They run them in 600 hp demo derby cars. Wouldn't be balanced worth a crap for a rear application on the highway I bet but front would be fine. https://neratdemo.com/product-category/drivelines/

 

[HankScorpio]

Thats the kind of rationalization I am thinking about. My rear driveline is great and the front will mostly see dirt in 4wd. Trucks got a softopper and a detroit in the rear so its not exactly a 4wd on the highway in the winter type of rig. I have other rigs for that. I think a couple of 1410 on the front may vibrate a little but be fine in the mountains. I only have 4" of lift with a bunch of trimming to fit the 37's.

 

[Fastereddie]

I had a 1350 double cardan but it would bind at droop. And to have the correct angles you would have no caster. Currently I have a 1350 Tom woods offset joint at the 205 to a 1310 Tom woods offset joint on the 60. I’m hoping the 1310 will be my “fuse” in the front half.

 

[HankScorpio]

I had a 1350 double cardan but it would bind at droop. And to have the correct angles you would have no caster. Currently I have a 1350 Tom woods offset joint at the 205 to a 1310 Tom woods offset joint on the 60. I’m hoping the 1310 will be my “fuse” in the front half.

Can you feel those offset joints vibrating at speed?

 

[Fastereddie]

Can you feel those offset joints vibrating at speed?

Yeah a little bit. If I leave the hubs in on the way back to camp it’s there for sure. I’d guess above 45 or so maybe.

 

[Big Ray]

Noice!!

 

[folkenheath]

What do you guys run for front yokes on your 205's? I am working on my crossmembers before I get the new exhaust run. 1 crossmember for the antiwrap bar in the back and then a crossmember for the trans mount using the regular SM465 to NP205 adapter. I currently have 1410 u joints both ends of the rear tom woods driveshaft. I will be getting a new front driveshaft since I swapped to the D60. The D60 also has a 1410 yoke. I think I should stay with the double cardan on the front shaft, should I be putting a larger yoke on the front output or swap to a flange like the original 241 had on it? I guess I am just not sure of my options for front outputs. Need to decide on the front output so I can have clearance on the front crossmember.

I own a couple 203 range boxes but currently do not have a doubler. The truck is going back on the road for a while before I build a doubler. I know I will have to retube the driveshafts later but it would be nice to have the correct yokes on everything now. I want to drive it for a while before I work on the drivetrain again. Probably a SM465/203/205 setup but I also own a NV4500 that could end up in the mix. The NV4500 is probably going to my crew cab to back up a 8.1L swap but it has a SM465/ round 205 in it that works great as is.

I had a GM CV (3R is it?) on the front. But I broke it multiple times. I put on a HAD 1350 CV on the front and it's been working great for years now. Both bolted to a stock GM CV flange.

The back is a 1350 CV from Tom Woods and that has been on there for 20 years. It required an aftermarket flange be installed instead of the yoke.

 

[HankScorpio]

I had a GM CV (3R is it?) on the front. But I broke it multiple times. I put on a HAD 1350 CV on the front and it's been working great for years now. Both bolted to a stock GM CV flange.

The back is a 1350 CV from Tom Woods and that has been on there for 20 years. It required an aftermarket flange be installed instead of the yoke.

I have been reading on tom woods site that the 3R are not very good. They seem to like 1350 on front drivelines. I am sure they would build me a 1410 but it may be overkill. I could swap my pinion yoke to a 1350 and use the 30 spline flat flange I have on the front t-case output. 1350 would fit better than a 1410 for sure.

 

[nvrenuf]

Check for mid 2000’s+ Dodge and Super Duty CV’s they vary between 1350 and 1410 so you might find a used donor driveshaft.

Check for clearance with a 1410 CV on the front, they are big.

 

[folkenheath]

I have been reading on tom woods site that the 3R are not very good. They seem to like 1350 on front drivelines. I am sure they would build me a 1410 but it may be overkill. I could swap my pinion yoke to a 1350 and use the 30 spline flat flange I have on the front t-case output. 1350 would fit better than a 1410 for sure.

The 3R I broke multiple times back in the day was from Tom Woods. They were great about it, they fixed it for free every time, I paid to upgrade to longer slip yoke once, they were easy to work with, but I broke the CV again with the big block then. At that point I upgraded to a 1350 CV. At the time Tom Woods did not offer a high enough angle on their 1350CV for the front. So I went with HAD. It has been great. The Tom Woods 1350 on the back has been great too. Both very good companies. Not sure if Tom Woods has a higher angle 1350 CV now?

For me the 1350 have been great with my big block, but sand and dirt don't have much traction compared to big rocks.

 

[Stephen]

We're pretty big fans of a CV front overall and don't sweat the pinion angle problem too much. If it's not directly in line, they still run good enough. We've ground some 3R CVs and they work OK but we've only done it in lighter duty stuff. All the big tire trucks get a tom woods 1350 CV at the 205 and a 1350 or 1410 at the front axle.

Going to 1410 on both ends is a good way to have a strong shaft with simple components but vibration at higher speeds could be a problem. Most of the time it's not enough of a problem to be a real problem but we have been on the trail with guys that had such driveline vibration problems that they would be out unlocking hubs to run 20 mph to the next obstacle. That's going too far but if you can make 40 and it's not too bad, it's probably good enough.

We kind of like to be able to go fast in 4wd so we make it more of a priority to keep the front running smooth.

 

[Fastereddie]

We're pretty big fans of a CV front overall and don't sweat the pinion angle problem too much. If it's not directly in line, they still run good enough. We've ground some 3R CVs and they work OK but we've only done it in lighter duty stuff. All the big tire trucks get a tom woods 1350 CV at the 205 and a 1350 or 1410 at the front axle.

Going to 1410 on both ends is a good way to have a strong shaft with simple components but vibration at higher speeds could be a problem. Most of the time it's not enough of a problem to be a real problem but we have been on the trail with guys that had such driveline vibration problems that they would be out unlocking hubs to run 20 mph to the next obstacle. That's going too far but if you can make 40 and it's not too bad, it's probably good enough.

We kind of like to be able to go fast in 4wd so we make it more of a priority to keep the front running smooth.

Do you even off-road?

 

[Stephen]

Do you even off-road?

occasionally!

 

[HankScorpio]

Pulled it out of the shop under its own power tonight. Off to exhaust shop very soon.

Can't wait to start driving it again and work on tuning the Proflo4.

 

[Bent77]

Looking good! Post updates about the proflo, I just installed and started one so it’s fresh in my mind

 

[mrk5]

Very nice looking rig!