That's what I was thinking. They are toast and I have new Spicer ones. Going to try with a wrench once and then move to the welder. Torch and welder are coming out either way, welding a couple lug nuts together to build an install/removal tool.
CK5
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$200 K5 (454 K5 now) *too much junk in the trunk
- Thread starter HankScorpio
- Start date
I have been really worried about doing the king pins. Set it up properly with the right tools, apply heat and it really wasn't a big deal.
Needs cleaned up.
Cleaning up nice.
You welded the nuts together "out of phase"....
(I crack myself up)I've done the same thing for the 17mm hex on the plug in an LS block. Although for the king pins I got lucky and cut off a piece of hex bar my Uncle had laying around and put a socket on that. And then he happened to have a 1" drive pneumatic impact gun to work on his semi trucks, and they were out with the push of a button.
Well, they started in phase, both threaded onto a stud and welded together. Then the weld cracked and 1 nut started to back off. It got welded in the middle and on the ends the 2nd time. Now it's pretty much indestructible.You welded the nuts together "out of phase"....
I've done the same thing for the 17mm hex on the plug in an LS block. Although for the king pins I got lucky and cut off a piece of hex bar my Uncle had laying around and put a socket on that. And then he happened to have a 1" drive pneumatic impact gun to work on his semi trucks, and they were out with the push of a button.
Don’t those get torqued to something ridiculously high?
Took them off with a 4 foot pipe on the breaker bar. Put them back on with the same tool while the casting was still hot. With me on the end of 3-4 ft of lever it should be somewhere in the 750 ft lbs range. My 1/2 inch torque wrench will only do 200 ft lb. The big bar, really, really tight is my only option.
Making some progress. Inner axle seals next. Got a beefy diff cover on the way. U bolts and plates showed up from ORD.
650 ft lbs sticks in my mind, I used the 3/4 torque wrench from work which maxes out at 650, Its about 3.5 feet long so Id say if you used a 4ft bar you're there.
The D60 is almost ready to go in. New seals, bunch of bearings and some paint. Brakes are on the way. Just picked up DOM tube for the tie rod.
On to wheel studs. There are several threads on here but I have not found what I need yet. This truck has an AAM 10.5 rear axle out of a 2002 2500 gas work truck. That gives it factory discs with e-brake. It also gives you metric lug studs. The rear axle is fine as is, so since the front is apart I thought I may just make the front studs match the rear. Going through the Dorman catalog now but there are tons of studs. Anyone know a part number that may work for metric studs in a D60 front with aluminum wheels?
On to wheel studs. There are several threads on here but I have not found what I need yet. This truck has an AAM 10.5 rear axle out of a 2002 2500 gas work truck. That gives it factory discs with e-brake. It also gives you metric lug studs. The rear axle is fine as is, so since the front is apart I thought I may just make the front studs match the rear. Going through the Dorman catalog now but there are tons of studs. Anyone know a part number that may work for metric studs in a D60 front with aluminum wheels?
Here are some M14x 1.5 studs.
Dorman 610-333 on left. Bit long, possibly a dually application.
Dorman 610-431 (Napa 641-4122) in the middle. Going to try these, it's one of the choices for a replacement on the AAM10.5 rear. The knurl seems to be a good press fit. It's slip on rotors for factory brakes, press on rotors for the D60 front. I think it will have good hub engagement on the knurl and enough thread without being crazy long. The factory style tip is kind of nice for starting the lugs too.
The one on the right is Dorman 610-326, the knurl is slightly smaller and isn't as tight fitting, I think it might spin.
I should know if these work later tonight.
Dorman 610-333 on left. Bit long, possibly a dually application.
Dorman 610-431 (Napa 641-4122) in the middle. Going to try these, it's one of the choices for a replacement on the AAM10.5 rear. The knurl seems to be a good press fit. It's slip on rotors for factory brakes, press on rotors for the D60 front. I think it will have good hub engagement on the knurl and enough thread without being crazy long. The factory style tip is kind of nice for starting the lugs too.
The one on the right is Dorman 610-326, the knurl is slightly smaller and isn't as tight fitting, I think it might spin.
I should know if these work later tonight.
So the answer is its probably not going to work on this one but might for others.
My Dana60 came to me as a dually unit with a set of SRW hubs included. The SRW hubs were used but great condition. The regular 9/16 studs had been removed. When I went to put the rotor on with the metric studs they went in too easy. Light smack with a hammer instead of a tight press fit. I think if you put the metric studs into a new hub they would probably press well but in a used hub the metric knurl is just barely too small.
If I could find a stud with more knurl to sit deeper in the hub it might get past the 9/16 knurl scars and into fresh metal but I cant find anything in the Dorman catalog. Since it looks like most if not all of the metric applications were slip on rotor there are not any studs with a really deep knurl to deal with the rotor thickness on the back of the hub. I would have plenty of knurl engagement if the hub was still virgin metal but not after having different studs installed first. I know better than to chance it and have a stud spin so its back to other options.
I may just run standard 9/16 studs on the front for now and next time the rear is apart I can explore swapping the AAM 10.5 to standard studs. Since the metric was barely small for the standard holes it seems like the standard studs should either be a tight press into the metric rear hub holes or just need the hold slightly enlarged for the standard studs.
Screw in studs come to mind but I don't think I will explore that option right now.
Custom stuff always takes some work, take this knowledge and use it as you will. I'm going to find standard D60 studs.
My Dana60 came to me as a dually unit with a set of SRW hubs included. The SRW hubs were used but great condition. The regular 9/16 studs had been removed. When I went to put the rotor on with the metric studs they went in too easy. Light smack with a hammer instead of a tight press fit. I think if you put the metric studs into a new hub they would probably press well but in a used hub the metric knurl is just barely too small.
If I could find a stud with more knurl to sit deeper in the hub it might get past the 9/16 knurl scars and into fresh metal but I cant find anything in the Dorman catalog. Since it looks like most if not all of the metric applications were slip on rotor there are not any studs with a really deep knurl to deal with the rotor thickness on the back of the hub. I would have plenty of knurl engagement if the hub was still virgin metal but not after having different studs installed first. I know better than to chance it and have a stud spin so its back to other options.
I may just run standard 9/16 studs on the front for now and next time the rear is apart I can explore swapping the AAM 10.5 to standard studs. Since the metric was barely small for the standard holes it seems like the standard studs should either be a tight press into the metric rear hub holes or just need the hold slightly enlarged for the standard studs.
Screw in studs come to mind but I don't think I will explore that option right now.
Custom stuff always takes some work, take this knowledge and use it as you will. I'm going to find standard D60 studs.
Standard 9/16-18 front studs for a V3500 pickup are Dorman 610-283. Available locally but at around $4.50 ea.
Rock auto had PTC 97208 with the same specs for $1.38 ea.
FedEx for Friday, stay tuned.
Rock auto had PTC 97208 with the same specs for $1.38 ea.
FedEx for Friday, stay tuned.
What's wrong here?
Dana 60 front. Started as a DRW axle, it came with some SRW hubs. Put a bunch of new stuff together and now I think the offset is wrong. Brakes aren't lining up right.
