CK5
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$200 K5 (454 K5 now) *too much junk in the trunk

I think that is the most difficult part of reusing manifolds. I haven't seen very many adapter pipes available aftermarket.
 
If you go to this link and set the system type to "manifold back", there are 11 options, about half of which are for our trucks, I can get any of them. However, they are all for a small block. What is the diameter and angle of your collectors on that BBC manifold? These are all for a 2 1/4" pipe, one appears to be straight down, the other one angled back.

You also have to have a 3 bolt flange for the collector as it includes a 3 bolt flange to slide over the pipe.

 
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These have one 90 and one angled head pipe...


This one is least expensive...


This one has two angled pipes...

 
I will look through these. Thanks. The driver side is straight down, it has to clear the oil filter and clutch slave. The passenger side is angled back.
 
What about stock replacement exhaust parts from a parts store? I know my local Napa uses premade tail pipes when they do exhaust work as it saves them a bunch of labor for making their own. Might have to buy the "Y" pipe for what your motor was meant for and just cut off the parts to attach to the manifolds and start from there.
 
What about stock replacement exhaust parts from a parts store? I know my local Napa uses premade tail pipes when they do exhaust work as it saves them a bunch of labor for making their own. Might have to buy the "Y" pipe for what your motor was meant for and just cut off the parts to attach to the manifolds and start from there.
That's exactly what I am thinking. Started through my parts stash and it's harder than I thought it would be. Going to see what NAPA sells.IMG_20220918_145704309.jpg
That's header collector, way too big. A gmt400 1992 454 flange, just a little too big. And the stock blazer 350 flange, just a little small.
 
Rock auto doesn't list anything for stock replacement. I used the manifolds for a 1991 V3500 with a 454. ( I have one with a 350) I figured it wouldn't be that hard to find some stock stuff to start with and modify from there. Harder than I thought. If I could get a stock replacement y pipe for a V series with a 454 and a manual I would be all set.
 
I bought a Walker exhaust system for my exes burb years ago. OEM quality, heavy steel, clamps whole 9 yards. Including a cat you could see straight through.
Gave the cat to a vet to help her get back on her feet. It was $89 back them.
Ordered a replacement today, $202!!!
2.5" y pipe into a 3" system all the way back
Clamps included.

Ordered the pieces I need to fit it in the K5 when the new motor goes in today also...
 
I bought a Walker exhaust system for my exes burb years ago. OEM quality, heavy steel, clamps whole 9 yards. Including a cat you could see straight through.
Gave the cat to a vet to help her get back on her feet. It was $89 back them.
Ordered a replacement today, $202!!!
2.5" y pipe into a 3" system all the way back
Clamps included.

Ordered the pieces I need to fit it in the K5 when the new motor goes in today also...
The real issue is the big block, not a lot of options for the 454 and 4wd. I did find these today from a local junkyard. He is also a radiator guy and has an exhaust machine.
IMG_20220919_204807697.jpg
They fit the BB manifolds and I got the donuts from O'Reilly. Once I can get it loaded on a trailer the local guy is going to bend up the pipes I need. Probably 2.5" pipes to the muffler and then a 3" exit behind the tire.
 
My 454 doesn't want to play nice with the steering on my D44. It's a reverse setup with the tie rod above and behind the pumpkin. Worked great with the small block. Only an inch clearance to the oil pan now. Easiest way to fix it is a Dana 60 swap.
IMG_20220919_204836042.jpg
 
When I had my Dana 44 I was able to put a 3/4" rod end on top the knuckle arm but below the leaf spring in front. Used a 3/4" Grade 8 fine thread bolt of the perfect shoulder length, cut off to get full engagement without threads sticking down. Had to drill the knuckle for a 3./4" bolt instead of the tie rod end taper.
 
My 454 doesn't want to play nice with the steering on my D44. It's a reverse setup with the tie rod above and behind the pumpkin. Worked great with the small block. Only an inch clearance to the oil pan now. Easiest way to fix it is a Dana 60 swap.
View attachment 426304

I tried reverse high steer on my D60 using WFO arms, my bbc oil pan was all in the way.
 
Ha! Like you can't handle it.. LOL!

How are you going to raise it up some? I would have it up on stands, or under the truck. Then I could sit on a stool to work.
I might do jack stands on a table. Worked for a D44 I did. I need to deal with the king pins first while its on the ground. Thats really the only part that has me worried. Not sure if I will just weld a bar to the king pin or try and use a wrench. The torch will be helping either way.
 
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