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2000 GMC K2500 Sierra Crew Cab Stepside

With what people get for wheels you might as well just buy some new wheels. You can buy a set of 8 lug 17s for about 400. Brand New. Don't get wrapped up in finding a "deal"
I started looking for H2 too, but everyone wanted 500 for 4....
I got my raceline 8 spoke renegades for 400 from summit.
Might be more now...

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And the only set of after market wheels I've found that I like the look of are the Method wheels and I'm a 5 tire rotation guy so I'm looking at around $1k for wheels that way.
 
Still considering those Dodge wheels. What's everyone's thoughts on hub centric vs lug centric? I found a link on Diesel Place to a company that sells hub centric rings to fill the gap between the GM and Dodge but I'm not sure about the effect on load rating.
 
TerryD said:
Still considering those Dodge wheels. What's everyone's thoughts on hub centric vs lug centric? I found a link on Diesel Place to a company that sells hub centric rings to fill the gap between the GM and Dodge but I'm not sure about the effect on load rating.
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Well some say don't do it. Literally thousands of guys have run lug centric wheels on hub-centric Chevys.
I do it. I don't even think twice about it.
 
Yup. Lug centric doesn’t change shit.
Besides it’s not like you have 4 studs. You’ve got 8. Literally will not change a thing.
 
Ok. I'm gonna try to get those then. I wanted Coopers anyways and just the tires are worth more than he's asking.
 
Look at wheels 30+years ago, wagon wheels, slots, western, none of those were hub centric....
 
That is true,they just made all the aftermarket rims with the largest sized hub pilot hole used on a vehicle,in the case of 8 lug truck rims I think they used the Ford sized center holes as they were the largest and would fit on all other makes ..

Some poor quality cheapie white spoke rims didn't have "coined" lug holes though,that means the holes were not punched in such a manner that the rim acted as a giant lockwasher when you tightened the lugs up..they just had flat steel centers and the holes drilled and countersunk..those types of rims often came loose if you were not vigilant about checking the lugs tightness often..

I had 1990 Ford F-250 eight lug 16" rims on my '77 K2500 a long time and the center hole was a lot larger than the hub pilot ,but I never had any troubles,and I used to haul a lot of scrap and firewood in that truck,often grossly overloaded--not for long distances,but the lugs never loosened up or anything...those same rims are on my '82 K2500 now..
 
Pulled the steering shaft out the other day to replace the coupling. There's no repair pieces available for it so I thought I'd be able to piece something together for it.

That's a no-go as well. I'd need access to a lathe to make the proper shoulder bolts to get it working so I ordered a Lares replacement coupler from RockAuto. When it gets here I'll be able to move the truck again! It's parked in front of the garage right now. I was expecting this to be a quick thing but nope.

Oh well, hopefully it'll improve how it drives. Right now it's pretty bad. More a kin to hearding really...
 
Took a little time to change the oil today. It's only got about 1200 miles on it but it's been in there for almost a year now. Since I use conventional dino squeezins I felt like it was time. I'm glad I did now, it came out like molasses.

While I was under there, I spend some time looking at the oil leaks. It appears to be the oil filter/cooler adapter and the crank shaft position sensor. The valve covers are also weeping and it needs new o-rings on the filler tube and grommets for the PCV valve and vent tube. I'm going to be looking into the stuff to change it all and try to get on that soon.

I'm also still working on getting tires for it. I want to get back to some LT series 285s. These P series 265's look sad on it but at least it's not sitting....
 
Made an appointment for a new set of 285s and an alignment next Friday. I'm going to try the Nitto Terra Grapplers this time. I've spoken with several folks around that have had them and biggy one bad review yet plus they are a couple dollars cheaper than the Cooper AT3 XLTs I was looking at.

I've had great luck with Coopers but i just felt like trying something else this time.

Does anyone know of a way to swap this truck over to slip on rotors on the front rather than the ones where i have to pull the wheel bearing assembly to swap them? I'll be getting rotors and bearings soon anyways but I thought I'd do some looking to see what's possible.
 
TerryD said:
Made an appointment for a new set of 285s and an alignment next Friday. I'm going to try the Nitto Terra Grapplers this time. I've spoken with several folks around that have had them and biggy one bad review yet plus they are a couple dollars cheaper than the Cooper AT3 XLTs I was looking at.

I've had great luck with Coopers but i just felt like trying something else this time.

Does anyone know of a way to swap this truck over to slip on rotors on the front rather than the ones where i have to pull the wheel bearing assembly to swap them? I'll be getting rotors and bearings soon anyways but I thought I'd do some looking to see what's possible.
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It’s a lot of work, but I got slip on rotors by putting a ford Dana 60 under the front of mine. Lol


Sorry, I had to.
 
Found a swap using NBS spindles, hubs, rotors and calipers but there was links to dead write-ups and mentions of differences in the CV shafts that I can't find.... I don't know if it would even be worth the effort. May just bite the bullet and thrown on some nice Timken bearings and Raybestos slotted rotors with their EHT pads and put another 100k on this thing....
 
TerryD said:
Found a swap using NBS spindles, hubs, rotors and calipers but there was links to dead write-ups and mentions of differences in the CV shafts that I can't find.... I don't know if it would even be worth the effort. May just bite the bullet and thrown on some nice Timken bearings and Raybestos slotted rotors with their EHT pads and put another 100k on this thing....
Click to expand...

The swap it cool, but seems like WAY more effort that its worth.
 
dhcomp said:
The swap it cool, but seems like WAY more effort that its worth.
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You have to ream the ball joint tapers and possibly swap master cylinders. I don't think it's worth it for a truck that barely gets an oil change worth of miles in a year.

I think I'll leave it alone and maybe just upgrade master cylinders eventually.

But bearings, rotors and pads is going to be just south of $500....
 
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