It looks like from th pics it's not much you need to grind
CK5
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2000 GMT400 CREW CAB SFA SWAP-The Warden: Fuel leak fixed and awaiting surgery…
- Thread starter GWeakland620
- Start date
The ultimate goal for this truck is tow duty/family camping trips/small offroad adventures.
Why not have the hubs machined to the GM spec and have hub and lug centric on both ends? You've already gone to the trouble to fit the GM lug pattern, what's a touch more work now?
It's only about a 1/16 of an inch all the way around.
I thought about it, but the guy I have do the work is really backed up this time of year. Took him a month to do the bolt pattern, I don't want to wait another month or more for him to machine the hubs too. I may still change my mind on that though. We'll see how he responds to my request, and go from there.
Yeah, he said it may be a month or more to get them finished up. Had I known there was a difference in the hub, I would have had him machine them while he had them. Oh well...
and could be a pita to balance tires on the machine unless they have the lug center adaptor for there machine.
for now cheep pair of THICK wheel spacers to kick you out past the lip so wheel can be tight and let you keep going .
Well see, I had thought about the spacer idea also.
The flange that the wheel would sit on, is only 1/4 inch thick. So realistically I could run a 1/4 inch spacer on the front wheels and be good to go.
I can't remember the number but I got some cheap 1/4" aluminum 8 on 6.5 spacers from my local Napa to make up for my longer studs not being threaded all the way down when I switch from aluminum wheels to thinner steel ones. I just put a light coat of silicone on the back side and installed them and the wheels and then painted them black later to disguise them since technically slip on spacers are not legal here. That would work perfect for you with no machining.
They are all over the place on Ebay for $25 shipped. I figure for that price, it's worth a try.
Probably cheaper than machining them, and lots faster than waiting for your buddy to have time.
EGGZACKRY!!!
So here's the low down on the reason for needing springs.
Spring pad width on the SFA kit is 36.5. Spring pad width on the ball joint 60 is 37.5.
Now try to stay with me...
Factory springs are 3 inches wide. Aftermarket springs are 2.5 inches wide. By running ORD's offset Dodge bushings, I should be able to absorb half an inch with the bushing swap. I then will oblong the center pin hole just a bit on both sides of the spring pads to try and absorb that last .5 inches. I'll make sure to take as many pictures as possible through this process.
Spring pad width on the SFA kit is 36.5. Spring pad width on the ball joint 60 is 37.5.
Now try to stay with me...
Factory springs are 3 inches wide. Aftermarket springs are 2.5 inches wide. By running ORD's offset Dodge bushings, I should be able to absorb half an inch with the bushing swap. I then will oblong the center pin hole just a bit on both sides of the spring pads to try and absorb that last .5 inches. I'll make sure to take as many pictures as possible through this process.
Oh, also going Saturday to General Spring to pick the springs up. Then measure some spring eye holes so I can order the correct bushing kit from ORD.
Anyway to just move the front hanger and use offset shackles?
Even if you have just a flat portion you could just get a basic spring hanger. No special bushings. Nothing out of the most basic normalcy.
Even if you have just a flat portion you could just get a basic spring hanger. No special bushings. Nothing out of the most basic normalcy.
Uh, I already have the ORD axle swap brackets on and done.
Yah I know. Doesn't mean you can't buy em apart and make em better.
Course I'm a glutton for punishment and half the stuff I do like that while working well is completely overlooked by 99% of everyone.
It also takes twice no usually 3 times as long
I like you plan and method.
For the center pin holes, consider filling them with a couple of heavy puddle welds and redrilling to your exact desired locations. A bit more work, but I've thought those pin holes are a tight squeeze for a reason. I also do this to fine tune axle parallel-ness.
Looking good.
David
Filling it in was the other thought. Since it's cast, don't you have to heat up the cast before you weld?
Yes, but you're welding a localized area, and it's not a big structural weld like a truss, so in my mind the tolerance for preheat is wider. I preheated with a propane torch until it was a dull orange/red - not sure what the temperature was, but it took between 5 and 10 minutes to get there. There was no cracking after welding, and it drilled very smoothly.
I think you can do it.
David
OK, I have a propane bottle i'll use. It'll make Hank Hill happy.
