Having fuel pressure readings only in a shop environment isn't as useful as real-world driving data.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
2000 GMT400 CREW CAB SFA SWAP-The Warden: Fuel leak fixed and awaiting surgery…
- Thread starter GWeakland620
- Start date
The ultimate goal for this truck is tow duty/family camping trips/small offroad adventures.
It does not read fuel pressure, but I am looking into fuel pressure/EGT's/Boost sensors that will be compatible so that I can monitor those.
Well either way, the truck had a desired timing of 10* and the actual timing was 25*, that's a pretty clear sign that things are on their way out. Plus with 176k and it most likely being the original pump, it's time to get those maint. items done that will cost me an engine in the near future.
So when I replace the pump, I plan on replacing the dampener along with a 1 piece crank pulley as well. Are the other things that I need to do at the same time? Like timing, or any important seals?
Water pump is good PM, and I’m a big fan of timing gears. You’ll have it down just about far enough to put them in. That, or a fresh chain.
David
David
Is there a problem with the rubber-isolated crank pulley? Seems like it should be a blessing, no?
This. Throw a new timing set in there, along with the crank seal & gaskets that entails. If you're pulling the IP, water pump and damper, it's just a few extra bolts to get it all done.
Water pump was another thought of mine. I'm just going to plan on spending more like $1,500-$1,800 total with added maint. items. I just want to be good for another 178K miles.
Oh, when taking the timing cover off, there's a bolt hidden under the oil baffle (in addition to the two bolts going through the baffle). It's easy enough to miss, and the cover is a whole lot easier to remove when all the bolts are out. 
Oh i'll be looking for all the pointers I can get once I dive in to this project!
If you're going to run the one piece crank pulley I strongly recommend getting a fluidampner to go with it. The solid pulley transmits more harmonics then a standard dampner go handle.
I like timing gears also, then you know your timing will never change unless you do it.
It's pretty straight forward job to do. Definitely doable over a weekend. All engine bolts are metric, so 10, 13, 15, 17, and 18 mm will remove 98% of bolts on a 6.x engine.
13 and 15 alone will cover at least 2/3rds of the engine bolts. And for everything else there's vice grips...
Strictly speaking, two of the fuel pump bolts are standard, as are the motor mount bracket bolts. And all the pipe fittings.
But most of the engine is metric.
But most of the engine is metric.
All of the V-belt trucks ran one-piece crank pulleys. Is it really a problem?
I was told the fancy pulley was to help decrease the impact from suddenly stopping the long serpentine belt, so you don't hammer your tensioner. Not an internal issue at all.
It’s either going with factory replacement stuff, or billet pully with a fluid dampener.
All of the V-belt trucks ran one-piece crank pulleys. Is it really a problem?
I was told the fancy pulley was to help decrease the impact from suddenly stopping the long serpentine belt, so you don't hammer your tensioner. Not an internal issue at all.
I think it's a mixture of the two issues, but neither my truck or the 96 diesel suburban my folks ever had that issue. The stock two piece pulley can have the cracks fry out and crack. That's when the issue occurs I believe.
You have it apart and plan on keeping it a long time. Spend the few extra bucks and get the good parts.
Ah, I love spring time!
Snuck outside early this morning to make some progress on the springs. Bushings swapped and on its own weight. Need to bolt up shocks and spring plates after church, but shouldn’t take more than 20-30 minutes.
New spring pack is 1-1/4 inch taller than the old pack, but the new springs are only 1” lift instead of 2” lift springs. With the weight of the truck, I think I may have kept the ride height the same.
New spring pack is 1-1/4 inch taller than the old pack, but the new springs are only 1” lift instead of 2” lift springs. With the weight of the truck, I think I may have kept the ride height the same.
What spec were the old springs? They were from the General Spring catalog, right?
What are your first impressions of the ride quality?
David
David
