CK5
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2004 Silverado Crew Cab Solid Axle Swap (LLY with ZF 6 speed)

We took the Silverado and camping trailer out last weekend, up the hill past Payson. It pulled the hills better than it ever has. It still gets hot on the bigger long hills (which is why I put the Mishimoto radiator in to begin with), but it's not getting as hot and it's allowing me to pull the hills faster which I'm sure is the more efficient turbo and maybe the intercooler keeping things cooler?

I'm leaving it the way it is now, but from my research the next thing to do would be to bypass the factory oil cooler and install an aftermarket air to oil cooler. That's a project for another day though, it's good enough for now.
 
More updates and bullcrap I'm dealing with on the Silverado.

First, here's a picture of the expensive garbage next to the stock pressure washed one that works 10x better.

IMG_20220613_115714068.jpg


My new clutch showed up finally and I got that installed. The old one was the South Bend twin disk ceramic clutch rated at 1200 ft lbs of horsetorques. It was noisy (rattled like a mofo), not the easiest to "slip" especially in its worn out state and made it look like I didn't know how to drive a manual. It still had some life left, but it wasn't looking pretty when I removed it (installed in 2012).

IMG_20220624_112521607.jpg


The replacement clutch is South Bend's new "organic" twin disk that is derated all the way down to 1100 ft lbs of hoursetorques. I'm not making anywhere near that so I thought it would be a good fit. Apparently they've learned a lot about keeping these things quiet and have completely redesigned how they work.

IMG_20220624_113851980.jpg


Here's some comparison shots of the anti rattle mechanisms on both clutches. The old one had some little spring plates that bolted the center plate to the flywheel. One of these was broken, the other two were very sloppy and worn out resulting in an incredibly noisy clutch.

IMG_20220624_114021737.jpg


The new one has centering pins and some sort of bushing/pad to soak up the vibrations, it's a completely different design.

IMG_20220624_113913222.jpg


The result is pretty amazing. The clutch is completely silent, engages smoothly, easy to slip when needed and doesn't surge like the old clutch (I had nicknamed the truck "Marty" it shook so bad).

All of that went pretty well, in fact it only took me about 6 hours to swap the clutch by myself.

Unfortunately after a couple test drives however, I found a puddle under the truck... It looked like power steering fluid so I started some clearance removals. When I pulled my York compressor for onboard air, I realized the shaft seal was completely blown out and puking the gear oil I use in the crankcase. I decided that was the problem and went to work on that. Unfortunately the next day there was another puddle under the truck, the power steering really was leaking.

After looking for the leak (nothing was obvious) I hosed everything down with brake clean and realized that the PSC pump cover was cracked right at the weld for the -12 fitting feeding fluid from the reservoir. For anyone that has worked on a Duramax power steering pump, this is a huge pain in the ass to take out.

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I had the spare parts necessary to fix everything so I got to work. I replaced the York compressor with one I had on hand (only one left...) and I also had a spare PSC can that I put on the pump. When I reassembled everything I realized that my feed hose coming from the reservoir was putting a little stress on the line when everything got bolted down, I notched one of the holes in the mounting bracket to fix this and hopefully I don't have any issues with that anymore.

While I was working on all of this and waiting for parts, I also installed a poly performance body mount kit. We had blown out one of the stock ones already, so I figured this was a good step, sorry no pictures.

I finally buttoned everything up today and started it up. Now the fan hits the bottom of the shroud, I've had this issue in the past, something about the Merchant Automotive mounts and the WFO crossmember (and possibly some frame flex) combined with the new, not blown out poly body mounts on the core support and I have an inch of clearance above the fan and about -1/8" at the bottom.

I spent some time staring and trying to figure shit out (as well as cussing and throwing tools), the MA engine mounts are sagging a bit. If you look at this picture of a new set, that point where the two halves of the mount are close have clearly contacted so they're sagging about 1/4" I'd guess.

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I'm not positive how I'm going to fix this, but basically I'm going to modify something to raise the front of the engine up about 1/2" to center the fan. Hopefully I can get this done in the next couple days.
 
As much as people dog on the aluminum/plastic radiators, I've had better luck with them than the full aluminum radiators I've tried.
 
That's a ton of work done.

I had sagging engine mounts on my blazer and it was causing me power steering pump to contact the frame. Took me longer than it should have to realize the problem.
 
I blew out the factory drivers side mount from torque while wheeling, so I went with the MA ones.

They're definitely sagging, but not by the 1/2-3/4" that the fan is off by.
 
I got the passenger side mount out, it's worse than it looked.

IMG_20220629_101734346.jpg


It was contacting on both sides of the mount, the bushings are ovaled out, apparently they can't handle the heat? I have no idea what would make a static bushing like this wear out, I haven't ever seen that on any of the other engine mounts I've made.

When I get this fixed, the truck should be considerably quieter I guess... Too bad these are a total bitch to work on because of the WFO shock towers, plus half the bolts have interference fit blind nuts so they have to be cranked on and off all the way.

I looked at other manufacturers engine mounts and they all appear to be EXACTLY the same but powder coated different colors with different labels on them. I'm guessing one manufacturer makes them and all the diesel shops get them branded.
 
I got one of the mounts modified and reinstalled yesterday. I just finished welding up and painting the other one but I figured I'd show a side by side for comparison.

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Hopefully everything is good now, I have plenty of clearance around the fan so it should be OK.
 
I've neglected this thread for way too long. As I've mentioned before I've been fighting overheating problems ever since I installed the CTS monitor. Not that the monitor broke anything, but it gave me an accurate reading of my water temps rather than just a general idea of it like the factory gauge does. Once I had accurate readings I realized that the temps were regularly climbing well north of 225°F, I'm not sure how I've managed to keep head gaskets in it.

As I mentioned before, I reinstalled the factory radiator which helped considerably over the Mishittymoto one that I bought, but it still would get hot on the hills when towing my overland trailer. I didn't dare try to tow the S-10 with it now that I knew how hot it was getting (ignorance is bliss apparently). I tried another brand (XPD) that was highly recommended and this probably dropped my temps by 5° or so, but was not a magic bullet.

I kept searching the forums for an answer and found one that recommended hood louvers. I purchased a set of the XL hood louvers from RunCool Louvers and they sat around my shop for almost a year before I finally installed them. I really only purchased these out of desperation and didn't think they would help at all. I didn't even take a single picture of the install process, because I felt guilty cutting holes in a perfectly good hood for something so silly.

I was wrong.........

Here's what they look like installed (don't mind the bird poop):

IMG_20240414_155827589_HDR.jpg


IMG_20240414_155851955.jpg


What I'm about to say will sound like total BS, but I promise it's true. We hit 90+ this week and I took the Silverado and trailer out camping on 4 peaks. Zero heat issues on the way there, but that's not too unusual for what temps we were seeing so it still wasn't a good test, but it did show that there was some improvement at least. On the way home we took a detour to Payson, the last hill into Payson is usually a 45-55mph max speed hill for me just to keep the temps at 225 or lower, I pulled the hill at 75+ and 208 was the highest temp I saw. We grabbed lunch in Payson and I was looking forward to the drive home, the steepest hill I take on a regular basis is on the way back down the hill from Payson, I'm generally down to 35mph by the end of it mid summer, this time of year would be 45ish to keep it under 225, we pulled the hill at 75 again, no drama and the temps kept under 215F, I even turned the dial a smile up to 3 which was always a way to ensure overheating and high EGTs.

In short, I'm seeing water temperatures 25F lower with higher speeds, EGTs dropped by 250-350F and power was way up (even without turning it up). I'm completely floored about the changes and why it was so hard to find the fix. I love my Silverado again and I can't wait to hit the hills this summer. I may even use it to tow the S-10!
 
I've neglected this thread for way too long. As I've mentioned before I've been fighting overheating problems ever since I installed the CTS monitor. Not that the monitor broke anything, but it gave me an accurate reading of my water temps rather than just a general idea of it like the factory gauge does. Once I had accurate readings I realized that the temps were regularly climbing well north of 225°F, I'm not sure how I've managed to keep head gaskets in it.

As I mentioned before, I reinstalled the factory radiator which helped considerably over the Mishittymoto one that I bought, but it still would get hot on the hills when towing my overland trailer. I didn't dare try to tow the S-10 with it now that I knew how hot it was getting (ignorance is bliss apparently). I tried another brand (XPD) that was highly recommended and this probably dropped my temps by 5° or so, but was not a magic bullet.

I kept searching the forums for an answer and found one that recommended hood louvers. I purchased a set of the XL hood louvers from RunCool Louvers and they sat around my shop for almost a year before I finally installed them. I really only purchased these out of desperation and didn't think they would help at all. I didn't even take a single picture of the install process, because I felt guilty cutting holes in a perfectly good hood for something so silly.

I was wrong.........

Here's what they look like installed (don't mind the bird poop):

IMG_20240414_155827589_HDR.jpg


IMG_20240414_155851955.jpg


What I'm about to say will sound like total BS, but I promise it's true. We hit 90+ this week and I took the Silverado and trailer out camping on 4 peaks. Zero heat issues on the way there, but that's not too unusual for what temps we were seeing so it still wasn't a good test, but it did show that there was some improvement at least. On the way home we took a detour to Payson, the last hill into Payson is usually a 45-55mph max speed hill for me just to keep the temps at 225 or lower, I pulled the hill at 75+ and 208 was the highest temp I saw. We grabbed lunch in Payson and I was looking forward to the drive home, the steepest hill I take on a regular basis is on the way back down the hill from Payson, I'm generally down to 35mph by the end of it mid summer, this time of year would be 45ish to keep it under 225, we pulled the hill at 75 again, no drama and the temps kept under 215F, I even turned the dial a smile up to 3 which was always a way to ensure overheating and high EGTs.

In short, I'm seeing water temperatures 25F lower with higher speeds, EGTs dropped by 250-350F and power was way up (even without turning it up). I'm completely floored about the changes and why it was so hard to find the fix. I love my Silverado again and I can't wait to hit the hills this summer. I may even use it to tow the S-10!
That’s awesome, I have a set of those waiting to go on the K5.
 
I’m so glad to hear this because I know how excited this makes you.

Btw is the local forum down? Thought bought sending you a text but I forget which Brent you are in my phone.
 
Yes, my forum is currently down. I've been too busy with work and life to worry about it for now. It will probably be back eventually. My number ends in 91.
 
I've had problems w/ my 4th gen Camaro at low speeds - 35mph ish. Did some work to it recently but havent tested yet. I know the underhood temps on that car get pretty warm. May consider some of those louvers if I still have issues. Thanks for the idea.
 
Glad to see this truck still out there doing truck things. I wonder if a cowl hood would have the same effect?
 
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