Just to clarify, I wouldn't care if I was asked, but when it's just used without asking it's weird. I know it's legal and I have no legal repercussions to prevent it, that's why some people watermark everything.
CK5
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2004 Silverado Crew Cab Solid Axle Swap (LLY with ZF 6 speed)
- Thread starter r3dd0g
- Start date
Yeah, I guess I see your point. I thought you knew and/or were asked. That's kinda shifty if you ask me.
I paid full price for my bumpers! I should get a rebate!
Haha, yeah! Let us know how that goes.
I think the same type of thing happened to Adam.
runamok151
1 ton status
It's not legal. They need permission, a release or contract if it's used for commercial purposes.
It's worth a phone call.
Not if I post it up on the internet. If it was in a private collection or whatever that's one thing, but once it's on the internet it's public domain.
You should ask your buddy wtf? He better at least be bringing you home some swag or something
It's not that big of a deal. It just would have been nice to be asked first.
You'll get used to the gear selection for the diesel with hill climbing / mud bogging. Proper gearing is super important for these engines / transmission combinations. My LB7 is the same way where it makes very little power below 1000 rpm but is screaming by 3000. I aim to be at around 1800 rpm when I'm going up a hill or through a puddle. That's where my engine is making it's max torque, but gives me some wiggle room up and down. An auto would help with this a lot as it keeps the engine more within it's powerband. I don't care though, I love my ZF6 and won't be swapping to an auto with my new build.
Absolutely love what you've done with your truck BTW! This thing is built just right!
Absolutely love what you've done with your truck BTW! This thing is built just right!
Thanks Russell, I know I'll get used to the gearing thing. I may end up going with a different t-case to get me a bit lower, but it will be OK for now.
On the subject of HammerHead though, my friend that showed them the pictures talked to them and now I am the proud owner of a hammerhead beer bottle cozy and a bottle opener...
On the subject of HammerHead though, my friend that showed them the pictures talked to them and now I am the proud owner of a hammerhead beer bottle cozy and a bottle opener...
Yay for freebies...
Thanks!
I'm still having brake issues unfortunately. I bit the bullet and bought brand new motorcraft sensors and WFO adapter pigtails and they still don't work. I couldn't even get the code to clear... By flipping the cables I got it to clear, but it popped right back up as soon as I started the truck.
A buddy of mine said he read something on Pirate of someone having the same issue. They ended up putting the chevy sensors into the ford hubs and that worked just fine...
I'm not sure why WFO doesn't just tell you to do that. I ordered a new set of sensors from Amazon since mine were cannibalized and thrown out already. I'll have them tomorrow and hopefully have ABS as well.
I'm still having brake issues unfortunately. I bit the bullet and bought brand new motorcraft sensors and WFO adapter pigtails and they still don't work. I couldn't even get the code to clear... By flipping the cables I got it to clear, but it popped right back up as soon as I started the truck.
A buddy of mine said he read something on Pirate of someone having the same issue. They ended up putting the chevy sensors into the ford hubs and that worked just fine...
I'm not sure why WFO doesn't just tell you to do that. I ordered a new set of sensors from Amazon since mine were cannibalized and thrown out already. I'll have them tomorrow and hopefully have ABS as well.
Updates, hooray!
ABS problems:
- I put one of the Chevy sensors in and realized it was hitting the tone ring. The sensors are the same size, so that shouldn’t be happening. I looked at the ones that came with the hubs that I had originally spliced into my harness and realized that they were both ground down. The driver’s side was worse, that’s the first one that failed, the passenger side was also rubbing and eventually failed as well. I’m guessing that had I driven the Silverado a bit last night the ABS light would have cleared, however the new sensors would have failed shortly anyways because they were rubbing too.
- I put a washer under the Chevy sensor to space it up just a tiny bit and checked the clearance by putting a blob of grease on it. It looked good so I bolted everything up and did the other side as well. My ABS light cleared and the ABS is working perfectly now. I do need to extend the harness though, the Chevy sensor wires are quite a bit shorter than the Ford ones so I need to add some length to get them to clear properly.
Issues with the 6” lift trackbar/pitman arm setup:
- Apparently at full bump the track bar is hitting the oil pan. It’s got a slight crack and is leaking now
. I think I can put a little more bend in the bar and get it to clear better. I’ll probably just drop the pan and weld it up, the oil pan was leaking anyways so this should fix that too.
- Because the track bar is longer for the 6” lift I have it adjusted as short as it can go. I think the lock nut got into the track bar bracket on the frame side and has killed the frame side heim already. Because of that I have a little slop in my steering. I’ve been trying to figure out where that was coming from, now I know. When I put some extra bend in the track bar that should shorten it up enough to fix that issue. I’ll slap a new heim on there and it will probably be fine.
- At full bump the drag link end on the pitman arm gets into the diff cover (just barely). I think it rotates out of the way so it really isn’t hurting much, but I’ll probably move the axle back a little bit to fix that.
ABS problems:
- I put one of the Chevy sensors in and realized it was hitting the tone ring. The sensors are the same size, so that shouldn’t be happening. I looked at the ones that came with the hubs that I had originally spliced into my harness and realized that they were both ground down. The driver’s side was worse, that’s the first one that failed, the passenger side was also rubbing and eventually failed as well. I’m guessing that had I driven the Silverado a bit last night the ABS light would have cleared, however the new sensors would have failed shortly anyways because they were rubbing too.
- I put a washer under the Chevy sensor to space it up just a tiny bit and checked the clearance by putting a blob of grease on it. It looked good so I bolted everything up and did the other side as well. My ABS light cleared and the ABS is working perfectly now. I do need to extend the harness though, the Chevy sensor wires are quite a bit shorter than the Ford ones so I need to add some length to get them to clear properly.
Issues with the 6” lift trackbar/pitman arm setup:
- Apparently at full bump the track bar is hitting the oil pan. It’s got a slight crack and is leaking now
. I think I can put a little more bend in the bar and get it to clear better. I’ll probably just drop the pan and weld it up, the oil pan was leaking anyways so this should fix that too.- Because the track bar is longer for the 6” lift I have it adjusted as short as it can go. I think the lock nut got into the track bar bracket on the frame side and has killed the frame side heim already. Because of that I have a little slop in my steering. I’ve been trying to figure out where that was coming from, now I know. When I put some extra bend in the track bar that should shorten it up enough to fix that issue. I’ll slap a new heim on there and it will probably be fine.
- At full bump the drag link end on the pitman arm gets into the diff cover (just barely). I think it rotates out of the way so it really isn’t hurting much, but I’ll probably move the axle back a little bit to fix that.
I wonder if addin a degree of caster would help the clearance at the cover some..
I have it pushed pretty far forward, about an inch and a quarter further forward than what the kit says to do. I'll probably pull it back 1/4" and be fine.
This weekend I'll pull the springs off the shocks and cycle everything. I never did that before because it was a "kit" so I didn't think I needed to. Unfortunately because I used parts from 2 different kits I ran into issues. I swear I had the axle fully compressed without bumpstops or shocks installed and nothing hit though. I'll have to figure out how it got into the pan.
Thankfully, it's not a big crack, you can't even see it but oil is seeping through the pan (not enough to drip though).
This weekend I'll pull the springs off the shocks and cycle everything. I never did that before because it was a "kit" so I didn't think I needed to. Unfortunately because I used parts from 2 different kits I ran into issues. I swear I had the axle fully compressed without bumpstops or shocks installed and nothing hit though. I'll have to figure out how it got into the pan.
Thankfully, it's not a big crack, you can't even see it but oil is seeping through the pan (not enough to drip though).
???
I'm using the stock transfer case (I think that's what you're asking???). It's the 263XHD manual shift that comes behind the manual ZF 6 speed. I will most likely end up putting something else in here for lower gearing and better strength, maybe an Atlas or Hero case as I don't really need a 4 speed setup in here (I'm sure Stephen will say otherwise...). But for now I'm just going to use the stock case.
The WFO kit comes with a conversion u-joint so you can use the stock driveshaft, however with how far I pushed the axle forward I need to have it lengthened a bit. When I get the shaft lengthened I'll just have them put a 1350 yoke on the end so I can use a regular 1350 u-joint instead of the conversion joint.
