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241/205 doubler

Could you you make the plate larger to accommodate the figure 8 pattern? How I am picturing it in my head it would just hang over the edge of the 241 a little. Maye I am overlooking something :dunno:. This would still leave you without the intermediate shaft...

You could clock the 241 straight down and then you might be able to get the figure 8 pattern to overlap the adapter plate.

You'd probably compromise clearance this way and, as mentioned, nobody makes a 10 spline intermediate shaft so you'd have to make one or have one made which is way more money/time than its worth IMO.
 
The 6 bolt pattern is not symmetrical, Duffy's kit (like every clocking ring I could find) is drilled to clock the t-case up or down. To mount the t-case upside down, the clocking ring needs to be drilled differently than anything I could find for sale. Thus, I bought a blank clocking ring and drilled/tapped it myself.

Ahhh, I didn't realize it was asymmetric. :o
 
A little update, got the 241 welded up and notched for the 205 shift rail (I'm shifting the 205 from the front).

You can see the notch here:

DSCF0023-1.jpg



Welded on the other side:

DSCF0024-1.jpg



And here you can see why the 241 needs to be notched or shifted from the rear (the shift rail is all the way forward in this picture):

DSCF0025.jpg
 
Looks great man! I can't wait to find the right np205 so I can start on mine. I sold my motorcycle last week and have some spending money so I might buy one soon. Keep us updated on those cable shifters too!
 
Thanks for measuring. You must be glad to get that front shaft a little longer, though your rig is pretty low so your angels probably weren't that bad


I read back through this post and missed this one. The front shaft hardly had any angle on it and it has 1410 joints, so it was nowhere near binding anyway.

driveshaft006.jpg




The funny part is, I'm 90% sure that I won't need to lengthen my front driveshaft even though it needs to be almost 10" longer.

Square driveshafts FTW :haha:
 
from the pics it looks like he used a drivers drop 241. When i did mine, i used a drivers drop because the second case was a pass. drop and it would be less of a hassle to use a drivers drop 241 b/c you wouldnt have to rotate the case 180 degress and cut more sheet metal out of the floor then need be. I'm sure there are other reasons why not to use the pass drop front case but right now i'm drawing blanks, haha.. anyways i hope that helps somewhat.
 
Thanks. As for sheetmetal cutting, I use a torch and BFH to rearrange mine. Worked when I cloecked the 241. No cutting involved.
 
nice progress...! :thumb: i'm getting a blazer with a 465/208 and i've got a line on a 241... i'm not sure what drop it is, i'll have to look... going to convert my yacht over to stick and doublers...
 
dude! nice write up thanks for taking the time to share it
i was set on the d&d setup but seeing this i think ill give it a try.
cheers

will
 
. I'm sure there are other reasons why not to use the pass drop front case but right now i'm drawing blanks, haha...

Like they are pretty rare, and gold to anyone who wants a kickass upgrade from a 208? Good thing the kit uses driver drop cases. IF eveyone starts cutting up the pass drop 241 supply out there, I'm going to have a heart attack.

Sweet way to do it yourself!

but,
AAAHHH!!! cut up pass side 241!
 
Like they are pretty rare, and gold to anyone who wants a kickass upgrade from a 208? Good thing the kit uses driver drop cases. IF eveyone starts cutting up the pass drop 241 supply out there, I'm going to have a heart attack.

Sweet way to do it yourself!

but,
AAAHHH!!! cut up pass side 241!

Haha, if you felt like donating a 32 spline driver's drop t-case to me I gladly would have taken it.

There are TONS of 27 spline ones out there (attached to 700R4's and 4L60E's), the 32 spline ones (behind 4L80E's and very rarely behind TH400's and SM465's) are tougher to find.
 
Haha, if you felt like donating a 32 spline driver's drop t-case to me I gladly would have taken it.
Damn straight!

There are TONS of 27 spline ones out there (attached to 700R4's and 4L60E's), the 32 spline ones (behind 4L80E's and very rarely behind TH400's and SM465's) are tougher to find.

I almost never see pass drop 241s around here at yards or for sale cheap. plenty of driverside cases. I have found only one 32 spline pass drop in 5 years of passive searching. I also own one of two 27 spline 241s I have come across...

I would say no big deal to convert any 241 to whatever input a person may need, but there are 2 different input bearing styles: Early style = double row ball bearing, and later = single row ball bearing. It is my understanding that 27 and 32 spline inputs will swap in place of each other, but both must be out of the same type of case.
Makes the 32spline pass side drop a rare bird for parts also...
So if mine blows, the input is not allowed to get damaged, so I can pop it into my 27 spline case...

Good job with the adapter though. And if you have the HD front bearing, it doesn't get much better!

I had been thinking about buying the Box4Rocks a while ago... too many changes to various buildups have put that on hold for now.
 
Nice job on your own doubler kit. I am doing the same but with the D&D kit. drivers drop 241, ford 205, twin sticked with the long chevy input. I am having a spacer made local so that I can have the shifters come out the front. Like this guy on pirate ttp://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=734601 Should be in by January or Febuary. Anyways just wanted to add that the 27 spline 241's are the same as the 32 splines just like stated above. It didn't sound like you had tried it yet though. I had the great opportunity to try it out three days before leaving for a Labor day trip at about midnight. I found a crack running all the way up next to where the shifter goes in. Swapped out the front case halfs worked like a champ. Just needs to be of the same era like southhead said. Those things are amazingly easy to take apart.
 

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