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2insane’s Random 6.2/6.5 Diesel Projects

The billet wheel arrived! Look what I created! LOL! The wheel fit perfect. I had to use the old aluminum housing to get it to fit on this new made in China turbo. I can’t wait to install it for the customer and see how it does! I have never heard of anyone else building an ATS Hybrid Turbo. First of its kind maybe?

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After I swapped the customers injection pump and turbo, I tapped a boost gauge hole on the lower plenum, capped it off for now until the gauges arrive and opened up the intake a lot more to reduce the EGTs. A cold air set up would’ve been better however because of the location of the batteries there was only one spot you can tap into the front on the driver side so it would’ve been pointless still choking the intake.

I took her on a test drive and she only got 12 miles until she started getting air into the fuel line again I had it towed back to the shop and pressurized the fuel tank to find a very very small pin hole on the crossover fuel line. Since the hole was sucking and not blowing… The only way to find it was to pressurize the tank to be sure. Customer ordered the new hardline and when it arrives, I will get it swapped in and take her on a good drive to Las Vegas ;-)

Almost forgot. I also installed some premium Warn hubs and put the old ones, which are still good, in the box as spares. Spare parts are always good to have!

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Looking for some 6.2L advice, seems my mechanical fuel pump took a crap. Should I just put another stock mechanical pump on to keep it simple and reliable or bother with converting to like a Carter or other style electric lift pump? Bone stock 6.2L 1983 K5.
Thanks
 
Looking for some 6.2L advice, seems my mechanical fuel pump took a crap. Should I just put another stock mechanical pump on to keep it simple and reliable or bother with converting to like a Carter or other style electric lift pump? Bone stock 6.2L 1983 K5.
Thanks
If you are not worried about the Zombie Apocalypse and EMP’s, a 5-9 Psi electric lift pump will do you well! They solve a lot of fuel priming issues when changing the fuel filter. Just make sure you have a spare electric lift pump because they do go out faster than the Mechanical Lift Pumps. And you will want to add a prefilter before the electric lift pump to preserve its life expectancy. Also deleting the mechanical LP and replacing it with a block off plate is recommended as well.

Edit: However if you prefer to have a mechanical lift pump, I highly recommend putting an in-line primer on one of the fuel lines so you can easily prime any air out of the system after doing a fuel filter change. My blazer has an electrical lift pump, but I prefer to have at least one mechanical truck in my fleet and my service truck is going to keep its mechanical lift pump that I am building.
 
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Thanks for the advice. Sounds like keeping the mechanical pump will be the way to go for me. My truck is easy to prime being an '83. Both fuel filters are spin on and I just fill them with atf and she fires right up. Haven't had any other issues yet although one these days she's gonna need some more work.
 
Thanks for the advice. Sounds like keeping the mechanical pump will be the way to go for me. My truck is easy to prime being an '83. Both fuel filters are spin on and I just fill them with atf and she fires right up. Haven't had any other issues yet although one these days she's gonna need some more work.
Right on! I will get you a picture of an in-line primer that I really really liked when my blazer had a mechanical lift pump. It worked really really well.
 
Okay! So the ATS downpipe was leaking exhaust right on the return fuel line. It is possible the fuel was boiling and creating the air.

I removed the upper and lower down pipes. Got a thicker upper downpipe flange made, power washed the frame where the exhaust was leaking on the fuel return line and took the old red fire truck to get the upper and lower downpipe worked on and wrapped. Also had the exhaust guy put on more 4” exhaust pipe and the pyro probe.

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I've seen a couple super cheap or free that I'd like to get to keep them from getting scrapped but no funds for that.
 
I've seen a couple super cheap or free that I'd like to get to keep them from getting scrapped but no funds for that.
I have 4 of those in my shed, another 2 on my flatbed under a cover, plus 3 more in parts vehicles waiting for their next home. That's just the 6.x diesels.
And I just sold a running 6.5td 94 vintage
 
I don't need that many unless I'm loaded and can build all the things to go with them. Don't need to be an actual hoarder. LOL.
 
I don't need that many unless I'm loaded and can build all the things to go with them. Don't need to be an actual hoarder. LOL.
You read my avatar I see.
My plan was to retrofit all my vehicles with diesel but then I got the vortec 454, then the 8.1 so now I'm split gas and diesel
 
Last weekend I got a phone call from a potential customer that I met at the parts store. He said his 6.2 truck would not start. On top of that, it was broke down 1/2 way up in the mountains. I did a quick service call for him. The coolant crossover gasket on the passenger side blew out and the coolant ran down his motor onto the starter solenoid and shorted out. I swapped the solenoid and followed him home. Later fixed the leak, added a missing starter support brace, added a missing starter heat shield, drilled out holes in the intake box to get his N/A 6.2 more air and as always… I gave him a butt load of ideas, free diagnostics and a good reason to keep coming back! Sorry, no pics were taken.

Back to the red utility fire truck…

For only $31, I thought this turbo blanket heat shield was a great deal! Customer agreed! It only took me 2 minutes to put it on and it fits the ATS turbo perfect! I did not even charge the customer for that to be installed. Less heat in the motor bay the better!


I also installed the CUCV Paradoxbydesign kit to help keep the rear of the motor cooler. I routed the lines above the plenums to keep the lines cooler.

So the finial diagnostic is that the sending unit sock is clogged and the truck does not get enough fuel. I will get the tank dropped and see what is going on. Hopefully the inside of the tank is not all rusted out.

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Last weekend I got a phone call from a potential customer that I met at the parts store. He said his 6.2 truck would not start. On top of that, it was broke down 1/2 way up in the mountains. I did a quick service call for him. The coolant crossover gasket on the passenger side blew out and the coolant ran down his motor onto the starter solenoid and shorted out. I swapped the solenoid and followed him home. Later fixed the leak, added a missing starter support brace, added a missing starter heat shield, drilled out holes in the intake box to get his N/A 6.2 more air and as always… I gave him a butt load of ideas, free diagnostics and a good reason to keep coming back! Sorry, no pics were taken.

Back to the red utility fire truck…

For only $31, I thought this turbo blanket heat shield was a great deal! Customer agreed! It only took me 2 minutes to put it on and it fits the ATS turbo perfect! I did not even charge the customer for that to be installed. Less heat in the motor bay the better!


I also installed the CUCV Paradoxbydesign kit to help keep the rear of the motor cooler. I routed the lines above the plenums to keep the lines cooler.

So the finial diagnostic is that the sending unit sock is clogged and the truck does not get enough fuel. I will get the tank dropped and see what is going on. Hopefully the inside of the tank is not all rusted out.

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How much was the paradox by design kit?
 
How much was the paradox by design kit?
$395 for 6.2 kit with Oem glow plug set up.


$290 if you do the kit without the glow plug temperature sensor which is recommended if you have done the glow plug override switch. Would have to drill a 1/8npt port in the coolant crossover. Or use a 6.5 coolant crossover that has the port already on the thermostat housing.


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