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3.08s / SM465 / 305 / 33s & 2" lift ... will it be tolerable?

I've never seen a k5 or k10 that could't fit any 33 x 12.50 tire with no lift and regular spokes, wagon wheels, or round centerline types unless the springs were damaged.
 
Any problems I've heard have been with minimal fender rub. The 10.5's never have that problem, at least that I've ever heard. There will always be exceptions.
 
Another option, which some people don't like, is to use the 33x10.5R15's from BFG.

*Generally* they fit without a lift, but wheels can make a bit of difference, depending on backspacing. Personally I like the full wheelwell look the 33's give with no lift. The AT KO2's are good tires.

My viewpoint on those tires is that from the rear or the front they are the same width as the 31's on there now, so that doesn't change in terms of how it looks. From the sides, you are gaining two inches of sidewall, but only raising the truck an inch.

That's a nice, clean looking truck, if it were mine I'd not want to modify it too much if you can stand not to.
I have considered that option as well as 32x11.5s. I also agree, I'm trying not to change it too much. I actually just found a picture of exactly a 2" lift with my same wheels and 33s and I like the look of it... thinking this is what I should do and call it good.

before%206%20susp%20lift%202_zpsilz1jchq.jpg




Any problems I've heard have been with minimal fender rub. The 10.5's never have that problem, at least that I've ever heard. There will always be exceptions.
I test fitted a bald 33x12.5 BFG on a stock rally wheel and it actually rubbed my pitman arm:

D7FA53C4-BB32-47B2-8204-52538D457BCC_zpspbfaqtk1.jpg
 
With more offset that might not be an issue, guess that would depend on your wheels vs. factory.

Would that even be fixed with 2" of height? I'm assuming that is at or near full turn?

Definitely not an issue with stock wheels and the 33x10.5" tires, at least on mine.
 
That 33 was on a stock rally... i was surprised it hit. Are the steering stops adjustable?

I think they are, somewhat, but I wouldn't give up turning radius to make tires fit.

Someone else can offer their opinion as well, but I don't think what you show is a common problem with stock wheels and 33x12.5's.
 
You know I've never tried on the stock rally wheels because I have never been a fan of them to be honest but I guess some folks have an affinity for them. On my first Jimmy I had some stock non rally rims that I rolled on for a bit until I got a good set of Chrome wagon spokes and they never had any issue with the fitment of the pitman arm but maybe it comes down to how the steering is adjusted there (or maybe there was a difference in the years where that lines up). I've always swapped to the chrome or white spoke wagon wheels. Currently my Jimy has some aluminum Centerline styled wheels and they fit fine. I think the rally wheels must have a different offset for whatever reason. Probably to help tuck the wheels under the fenders a touch more. I'm probably going to run these aluminum wheels for a while until I start looking at swapping in something beefier in the rear but I may just go with a 14 bolt semi floater that will allow me to keep a 6 bolt rear wheel... I suppose if you really wanted to make sure there was no run on that pitman arm you could use a spacer on the hub but then you'd really have to space the rear out to even up the front wiggle/waggle.
 
I figure if there are rubbing issues I can cross that bridge when i get there. I've honestly never heard of anyone having that issue so theres gotta be a relatively simple fix. it only rubbed at full lock.

I really like my stock wagon wheels, but I just stumbled on this and I think it might be the sharpest looking combo ive seen so far. 2" lift with 32x11.5s and 15x10 wheels.

84%20gray%20gost_zpsnbfcxrkr.jpg
 
Yeah if it was full lock sitting on level ground then there are probably a chance it wont happen much normally but to be honest I think when you start looking at 33 x 12.50 that the 2 inch lift setup really does complement the look of the truck, in regards to both the width and the height of the tires. I am not sure of the 33 x 10.50 someone mentioned earlier is considered an off-size but if it is then it may actually cost more than the 12.50 (just due to availability). Just food for thought.
 
I am not sure of the 33 x 10.50 someone mentioned earlier is considered an off-size but if it is then it may actually cost more than the 12.50 (just due to availability). Just food for thought.

Interestingly, the 10.5" BFG TA KO2's at Discount are showing $159 now (they might be on sale) while the 12.5's, same tire otherwise, are $204. 10.5 BFG MT's are $211 FWIW.

That seems to be less than I paid for the 10.5's a few years back actually. IIRC they were $180 or so at the time.

Not sure what uses the 10.5's, but they must be fairly desirable, they've been around at least 10 years. If they stop making them I'll be in trouble lol.
 
I've somewhat made up my mind. I am going to get some 32x11.5 mud terrains installed on the stock wheels this spring and go from there. From there, I'll probably choose from one of two options:

a) 1" zero-rate front and rear with new shocks
b) 2" lift kit

I think both options will fit the 32s well. The zero-rates would be the cheapest and least "surgical" option. however that route would sacrifice the extra spring travel of the 2" kit... and from what I've been reading improved ride quality as well by getting rid of the negative arch spring.
 
my k10 burb has 33's, no rubbing on tired stock springs. BFG's KO.
How much time does it see off-road? It doesn't rub on the street because the sway bar is on. With no sway bar, articulating off-road you can rub 33's with 4" lift, probably 6". How much lift for a certain size tire is a 1980's question.
 
I'd like to see how close the pitman arm is for you guys. I put literally the exact same wheel and tire on my truck as Big Ray and it rubbed on flat ground.

i was able to get my 91k5 on 5" of combined lift and 33/12/50 in my garage and it was the same height. just saying.
That is good to know thanks!
 
I'd like to see how close the pitman arm is for you guys. I put literally the exact same wheel and tire on my truck as Big Ray and it rubbed on flat ground.


That is good to know thanks!

I'll check on mine if I remember, I'm driving the truck all week as I break the engine in.

Agree with the sway bar, one thing I recall with the 10 bolt (that I forget since I went to the 14SF) was that the tires in the rear would rub the inside of the fender when one side was really stuffed up. Just a bit, but it happened. On stock wheels I imagine a 12.5 would be worse.

Edit: The more I think about this, with smaller tires on, when you move the steering wheel lock to lock, is clearance the same either full left or full right? I've seen some odd stuff done on other vehicles (such as forcing steering shaft onto steering box improperly oriented) that affected how the steering worked.

Edit edit: I checked, I can easily fit three fingers between the tire and pitman arm.
 
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