What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

3/4 Ton Swap is DONE: **d-shaft question**

Avery4jc said:
This two day 15+ hours a day to just get the rear end in wasn't exactly my idea of a good time. ;)
Click to expand...

Yes, but when it's all done you'll have that warm fuzzy feeling knowing you built it yourself! :D
 
u ever heard of rock-star energy drinks? they work wonders lol. im not sure on the braking systems of these trucks even if they use a proportioning valve. and im to lazy to google that **** b/c its 3am here in NC. i just looked over at advance autos site and they dont list a proportioning valve for our trucks. they might use a metering block or just different size valves for the front and rear brakes. we have a 3 channel system, ie. 2 front lines and one rear line. if we had abs it could be either a 3 channel or a single channel, ie one channel for each front wheel and one channel for the rear. or just one channel for the rear(the rear should be the first to lock up if the brakes are in good working condition). u might just wanna look at searching basic brake system fundamentals just to get a feel for braking systems. im bout about not stopping till i finish something, and i run myself ragged
 
yeah the only reason I stop lately is because of the weather...it's been getting very very cold around here...today it wasn't even supposed to get out of the mid 40's which for Cali and the central valley at that is VERY cold...we're tropical desert people, lol...were good with 115* but not 40's!
:)
 
its been 60-mid70s here all week and kinda humid b/c of the rain. maybe when i get my tax return ill be doing the same swap. ive been thinkin about just finding a military K5 and swaping the 14 bolt and 10 bolt b/c i know it will have 4.56s and a detroit rear. and i found one on the way to swansboro to my gmas for christmas. also saw a 67-72 C20 so possible eaton rear.
 
my truck has a proportioning valve, its underneath the radiator. You can locate it by all of the brake lines runing into and out of it. On certain trucks you have to have a clamp that holds a pin down in order for you to properly bleed your brakes. I think that was only for 89 and 90 but you never know.... Good luck Avery, hope its goin smoothly

~Brian
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
its been 60-mid70s here all week and kinda humid b/c of the rain. maybe when i get my tax return ill be doing the same swap. ive been thinkin about just finding a military K5 and swaping the 14 bolt and 10 bolt b/c i know it will have 4.56s and a detroit rear. and i found one on the way to swansboro to my gmas for christmas. also saw a 67-72 C20 so possible eaton rear.
Click to expand...

yeah keep your eye on www.govliquidation.com there is normally some good stuff on there....although not always local.



Thanks for the heads up on the location Brian.
 
they do have a cucv 1 1/4 ton up there in FL. might be a lil to much out of my price range for a axle swap though. i did find a 14 bolt full floater w/ 4.56 and detroit for $500 in tenn. told the guy if he was closer to eastern NC we could maybe work something out.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
its been 60-mid70s here all week and kinda humid b/c of the rain. maybe when i get my tax return ill be doing the same swap. ive been thinkin about just finding a military K5 and swaping the 14 bolt and 10 bolt b/c i know it will have 4.56s and a detroit rear. and i found one on the way to swansboro to my gmas for christmas. also saw a 67-72 C20 so possible eaton rear.
Click to expand...

I thought the M-1009 still had 10 bolts?


Edit. I just searched it to be sure because I knew I read that on here before. Here is the link to a thread about the CUCV's. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141345&highlight=m+1009
 
Hey Avery just go to Lowes and get 2 allen bolts that are 3/8" by about 3" long and use those for spring pac center pins. The heads are the proper size to fit in the hole that is in the spring perch and you can tighten them really tight with a wrench and an allen rather than a pair of pliers. With out them your axle can and will slide on the springs no matter how tight you think you have the ubolts. If it has already been covered, sorry.:D Looks good by the way

Ira
 
well i stand corrected on the military K5. guess i gotta find a rotten cucv pickup/ambulance/something from the truck platform
 
sandawgk5 said:
Hey Avery just go to Lowes and get 2 allen bolts that are 3/8" by about 3" long and use those for spring pac center pins. The heads are the proper size to fit in the hole that is in the spring perch and you can tighten them really tight with a wrench and an allen rather than a pair of pliers. With out them your axle can and will slide on the springs no matter how tight you think you have the ubolts. If it has already been covered, sorry.:D Looks good by the way

Ira
Click to expand...

but are they grade 8?
 
I can't get this stupid driveshaft apart...this is pissing me off...after this much time working on it trying to get it ready (school starts Monday!) and I can't get the old u-joint out to put my new conversion joint in...grrrrr

I took out the retaining clips...what else is there? Or is it a possibility that it's just really really stuck? The socket and vice trick isn't working...I think I might call Marlin Crawler and see if he can do it for me...

Also the only thing left to do is bleed the brakes...any pointers? I see the little fittings on the back of the drums but I don't know what to do with them...
 
call your buddy, after getting the driveshaft squared away. the Chilton's manual(or Haynes) will tell you how to bleed the brakes.

might try a muffler shop too if Marlin doesnt work out for you.
 
Oh thats right...I have a Haynes manual but it's for a K10...would it be the same process for the 14ff?
 
it should if ur 10 bolt had straps to attach the U-joint to the yoke. so ur not gettin around to doing the front today are you?
 
No the front won't be done...I'm just in a rush to get this rear end finished and get the truck back on the road...I'm setting up a date with my buddy though so he and I can work on it...it's slow going by myself.
Ok, I called a bunch of places and nobody is open...I got ahold of Full Throttle Suspension because they are pretty cool guys and thats where I got my U-Bolts...they said they take off at 1:00 (in 10 minutes) but to go rent a tool from Autozone or Kragen to do it...what is it? Unless they're handing out hydraulic presses to customers I don't see what tool could help...:)
 
To bleed the breaks first get all your lines hooked up and stuff. On the back of the drum is a little nipple that can be opened with a wrench. Make sure the master cylinder is full. Then go to the passenger side wheel. Have a buddy pump the pedal 3 times and hold it to the floor. Then you open the nipple. You should either see fluid come out or hear air come out. Then close the nipple. Repeate this process on that wheel until you have a good stream of fluid. Then move to the driver side rear wheel and do the same. Then move to the passenger front wheel, then driver front.

Be sure to check the fluid in the cylinder often.
 
yes, bleeding is the same, no matter what axle you have.

as for a shop with a press, try a muffler shop like i suggested earlier. :deal:
 
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192209&highlight=killed+some+noise

The tool in the first pic from colby's thread, the big c-clamp looking thing, easiest to use an impact on it but gotta be careful not to bend the ears on the shaft. Should be able to rent it from Autozone, Advanced, O'reilly's whatever is near you. Makes it a 10 minute job, just make sure all retaining clips and injected plastic is removed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom