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3/4 Ton Swap is DONE: **d-shaft question**

thatK30guy said:
Oh boy, here we go again....:doah:
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Nope...its honestly not a big deal...with no fluid they are either going to not work upside down or not work right side up so why waste my time? I'm not saying they are low buddy...I mean these suckers are EMPTY! :)

As far as the burnout stuff goes...I don't know...its just cool. So how does everyone do it? I haven't messed around b/c I don't want to break anything...all I ever do is just punch it and turn a bit to break traction...so do you guys just hold the brakes and punch the throttle or hold the brakes and lay into it?
 
Avery4jc said:
Nope...its honestly not a big deal...with no fluid they are either going to not work upside down or not work right side up so why waste my time? I'm not saying they are low buddy...I mean these suckers are EMPTY! :)

As far as the burnout stuff goes...I don't know...its just cool. So how does everyone do it? I haven't messed around b/c I don't want to break anything...all I ever do is just punch it and turn a bit to break traction...so do you guys just hold the brakes and punch the throttle or hold the brakes and lay into it?
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Hey Bud,

Just wanna say, that if your shocks are EMPTY, you really need to replace them. You're subjecting many parts of the truck to unnecessary stresses due to shock loads. Don't delay before this repair multiplies into others because of it. If you can't afford all 4 right now, how about 2? Look for deals on the shocks. Superlift's can be gotten pretty reasonably and are always on sale. Good quality, don't wanna forget that.

I'd love to do a burnout with my 383 and 39's, but at 2500 for a set of tires, man that's some expensive rubber burning. I think I'm gonna save my wheel spinning for the mud. I'll give ya a rooster tail show! How's that?

When you comin' to Texas? Lookin' forward to meeting you. Hope you're bringing your rig. Got lots of places to take you to get that pretty white TRUCK all COVERED IN MUD! :wink1:

Manny
 
this is how you do it. You put sticks through the holes of your rims (when its stopped so it doesnt tear up anything). And just stomp on the gas and you will do a joe dirte' burn out. Or, you can wave bye bye to your brand new conversion U-joint?? dont do it your tires are already bald enough right? them bias ply claws (radials too) have a soft rubber compound. So, my guess is they will chunk off pretty good.
 
MuddinManny said:
Got lots of places to take you to get that pretty white all brown! :wink1:

Manny
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mongolian_gerbil.jpg


:haha: he didnt like it much:haha:
OWNED lol all in good fun
 
lol...yeah I know I need to do the shocks next...the funds are being built back up (working as many hours as possible still :))
So what are some suggestions? Maybe some links to what y'all think are my best option would be nice.

Yeah if I go to Abilene for school I'll be bringing my truck. I'll just tow it behind the new BB crew cab we got for us to take. ;)
 
How do you measure for shocks? Or do they have them based on the amount of lift you have?
The reason I ask is I'm not entirely convinced the ones that are on here are perfect...especially after digging deeper into the PO's junk on this truck.
 
Since they have little to no oil inside them, compress them fully and then extend them fully measure them eye to eye(at both positions), and bam you've got the stroke, collapse, and extended length.
 
Avery4jc said:
How do you measure for shocks? Or do they have them based on the amount of lift you have?
The reason I ask is I'm not entirely convinced the ones that are on here are perfect...especially after digging deeper into the PO's junk on this truck.
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Easy!

You have a Superlift. You know how much lift is in the front and rear. Go to their web site and find the replacement stock number of the shock. You can use it then to cross-reference other brands. Easy as 1-2-3!

Manny
 
Avery4jc said:
As far as the burnout stuff goes...I don't know...its just cool. So how does everyone do it? I haven't messed around b/c I don't want to break anything...all I ever do is just punch it and turn a bit to break traction...so do you guys just hold the brakes and punch the throttle or hold the brakes and lay into it?
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What I do usually is rev it up to about 4500rpm and then let the clutch out slightly to apply a slight load on the drivetrain to eliminate any play that can break something, then I just dump the clutch and the tires spin. To do a donut, I do the same thing I just turn the wheel to either the right or left. And figure 8s I alternate tuning left then right. But it you want to hold still and and sit and roast them, you really should have a line lock to do it the best, but you don't neccesarilly need one. I tried one by doing my normal burnout method but as soon as my foot left the clutch I nailed the brakes and my engine was powering through them, but then I broke an axel shaft... :rolleyes:

But seeing as that you have an auto, if you can't break them loose by just punching it in a straight line, then I'm not sure that you either have enough gear or enough power.

When I do burnouts I know my 305 is struggling to get those tires spinning. But since I have got my new tires, I haven't really tried anything like that yet and my new tires are a little heavier than my A/Ts so I want to drive at least a little more conservative till I get my 6lug 14bsf. I'm sure that the 14bsf will have plenty of strength to handle tha abuse I dish out. But then again I am thinking of getting a new crate engine this summer. :D
 
Ya, to do it right, you need a line lock on the front. That will hold the front brakes for you and release the rears to spin freely. Either that or do what Branndon did when he did his 4wd burnout (or tried at least). Strap your truck to a pole/tree and gun it. :haha::haha:
 
lol I remember that video...funny stuff.

So how does the line lock work? How does it send fluid to the front but not the rear?
 
Avery4jc said:
lol I remember that video...funny stuff.

So how does the line lock work? How does it send fluid to the front but not the rear?
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A line lock is a solenoid that is put in line with your front brake lines. What you do is depress the brake pedals, hit the button which closes a valve in the lock. Release the pedal. The solenoid will hold pressure on the calipers while the rest of the system relaxes.
 
superlift has a store on ebay where they sell shocks for $9-11. scratch_and_dent is their name. shipping is around $7 each. thats $35 an axle. you now officially have no excuse for not getting new shocks. they have a chart so that you get the right ones based on your lift height.

they do not come with boots but they are only $2.

and if I want to spin my tires I just punch it. smoking them is dumb, just a waste of money. but a quick spin when taking off never hurt anyone. when I get a new set I will park it against a wall and put on a 4 wheel smoke show for ya.
 
please do... Have you seen Branndon's movies? I think you signed up right after he made a bunch of them...

The scratch and dent shocks from Superlift...are they decent quality? Sometimes you get what you pay for.
That line lock sounds fun....:)
 
Avery4jc said:
The scratch and dent shocks from Superlift...are they decent quality? Sometimes you get what you pay for.
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I run them on my truck and have never had a problem. they warranty them. it's just scratches and stuff that does not effect the performance of the shock. if you wheel your truck in the mud or woods then you are going to scratch them anyways.

you will get a brand new brand name $35 shock for $10 because some jerkoff returned them for being scratched making them not prety enough for his show truck.
 
no I know they are scratch and dent because of cosmetic blemishes...just like the blem tires from Interco...I was just wondering if the Superlift shocks are good quality (regardless of cosmetic blemishes).
 
gmc4cw said:
I run them on my truck and have never had a problem.quote]

maybe you missed this part.

for the price they are 1,000,000 times better then what you have on there now. to you they will feel like bilstiens.
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