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3 inch lift using 2inch suspension lift and easy inches

JFHblazer

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Purchased an 86 m1009 that has no mods and would like to start my resto on it by first lifting and extending a little.
Want to do the following: Lift 3 inches push axles back 1 to 1.5 inches and slap 35x 11.5 or 12.5' under it. I plan on cutting both front and rear to fit the tires. This is nit going to be an rock crawler so do need so crazy clearance.
Questions: Is 3 inches achievable using this method? Are there brackets I will need to move the sway bar forward?

Thanks
 
Solution
Caster has a lot to do with return to center. Before you go after caster, check that ball joints/king pins move freely. If that are binding this stop return to center.
You want positive caster +6°ish.
The swaybar will not stop bouncing. It stops the body from leaning in corners. It can only stiffen the ride, not soften. Also, the factory sway bar doesn't fit with lift springs. You need adapter brackets or a set of swaybar disconnects. Search. It's been posted within the last week.
Thanks, I’ll search
 
Who sells the parts to get my sway bar reconnected? I think I’m getting too much side to side slop as well as bounce so I would like to reconnect sway bar. Ian going to need to modify the front frame mounting holes along with the spring plates.
 
Put your sway bar back on the spring plates, hold the bar up to the frame, and see if there is enough room to remount the brackets. If so drill new holes. If not then a mounting pad will have to be fabricated.

That bounce is controlled by the shocks. The unsprung weight, tires, wheels, axles, brakes, determines the shock valving. The tires and wheels are biggest variable. It sounds like you don't have enough shock.
 
Put your sway bar back on the spring plates, hold the bar up to the frame, and see if there is enough room to remount the brackets. If so drill new holes. If not then a mounting pad will have to be fabricated.

That bounce is controlled by the shocks. The unsprung weight, tires, wheels, axles, brakes, determines the shock valving. The tires and wheels are biggest variable. It sounds like you don't have enough shock.
I think I’m starting to agree. But why would the package come with such a weak shock?!?
 
I think I might have figure some of the issue out. Someone correct me if I’m wrong. I purchased a 2 inch lift kit and also applied 1 inch easy inch blocks to gain another inch and to move the front axle forward. Could using the shocks supplied with the 2 inch lift on a 3 inch lift cause excess bounce?
 
The lift mfg can't account for the weight of your tires. They are just guessing. Plus I'm betting they just buy shocks with their label. Throw in a few bean counters on both ends and wham shitty shocks.
 
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I think I might have determined my issue. This is a cucv m9001 mill spec diesel. It seems that they are heavier (curb weight) than you 86 diesel blazer (see photo). I purchased an easy ride suspension when I should have looked for something else. I read a bunch of data on other sites and many people thought the military just put wide (3 inch) springs that taper toward the center up front cause they wanted beefier ride. Well I should have compared curb weights. Now I have to find this heavier spring for a two inch lift. Tuff country said they don’t make it. Looks like I will have some springs for sale though! 7BBB1E98-A20A-45C6-AE0F-6122A6E63816.jpeg
 
I have an 88 v20 suburban with dual batteries ord bumper and a 12k warn winch. Im sure im heavier than you. I have the same 2" tuff country ez ride springs and get zero bounce. I went with ord's bilstein 5125 shocks and they ride great compared to the tuff country shocks
 
Bottom spring is factory front 77 K20 burb, top spring is rough county 8000 used on same K20 3/4 ton 77 burb. Road beautifully

Second picture is side stack.
Top is factory and next one down is RC

IMG_20220122_143449.jpg

IMG_20220122_143530.jpg
 
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