ok time for a photo dump of the linkages and the really messy wiring. I'll have to go back and clean-up the old wiring and do a better job at getting the new wiring setup better.
CK5
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350 TBI to 383 with Flo Pro Swap
- Thread starter MT Bill
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- 383 383 stroker flow pro 4 suburban
I like the idea of a cold air intake, but I just don't really feel like $300 is worth it for the ones I've seen. So I'll probably try to find a raised base, or do the salad bowl route. I also like the look of the oval air cleaners that match the valve covers too. And a 15in oval should allow for a bit more airflow than a 14in round if I can fit it.
I have been tempted to get an oval air cleaner, but then the penny pinching side of me comes out.
A little over a week ago I finally got to drive the new setup. At first it was pretty underwhelming, but I realized the TV cable needed adjusted because it was shifting into 3rd gear at less than 10mph. Through a little trial and error I think I have the transmission cable adjusted fairly close to correct now as it will shift from 1st to second at around 18mph and I hit 3rd gear at 40-45mph.
The O2 sensor has been an issue this whole time though. It worked for a few short drives, then I noticed it would peg out at 22.8 AFR, or it would be stuck at 10 AFR. I tried cleaning it out, reconnecting it, did the butane test and it would work randomly then go BO again. A week ago Sunday evening I had the ignition on and engine off looking through the E tuner settings on my phone when I noticed that the AFR readings started out at 10 then after around 45 seconds slowly worked their way up to 22.8. So I started the engine and the reading levelled back off at 13.4-13.7. The next morning I waited to start the engine until the readings moved from 10 and it worked the entire drive down to my work parking lot. It seemed as if the O2 sensor would read correctly as long as I waited the ~45 seconds or so until the AFR reading changed on the display before starting the engine.
Tuesday on the way home from work I developed a miss in once cylinder. I figured the O2 sensor readings being funky probably let to a fouled plug. So on Friday afternoon I pulled a few plugs and found some that were definitely on the rich side. I also found a plug wire that had burnt on the header - there was the miss I felt.
I had been hearing a ticking noise while the engine was running I wanted to investigate. So on Saturday I pulled the headers, spark plugs, and valve covers. I found that most of the plugs showed signs of running very rich. The headers actually looked like they were sealed quite well, but quite a few of the rockers were on the loose side. So I tightened the rockers, installed new valve cover gaskets, reinstalled the plugs and headers and started it up. The O2 sensor which had been working if I waited to start the engine, seems to have gone tits up. It now only reads 10 or 22.8 nothing in between. On the bright side, the ticking noise I was hearing must've been the valve train, because its gone now!
So I ordered up a new 02 sensor and she's parked until it gets here. Anyone else having issues with the 02 sensors on this system? I'm hoping it was just the initial setup and being a new motor that led to the failure right out of the gate. I don't really want to replace $90 sensors all the time.
One other question for the group is what is your method for adjusting the valve train on the vortec engines? I have read multiple guides/how-to's and there seems to be a wide array of methods ranging from tighten until the vertical play is gone from the rocker, to tighten one full turn past when pushrod rotation stops. I've even seen a recommendation to adjust them while the engine is running?
Anyone have a good method for adjusting the rockers after the intake manifold is on? I simply tightened until the vertical play was gone and the side to side motion was stiff.
The O2 sensor has been an issue this whole time though. It worked for a few short drives, then I noticed it would peg out at 22.8 AFR, or it would be stuck at 10 AFR. I tried cleaning it out, reconnecting it, did the butane test and it would work randomly then go BO again. A week ago Sunday evening I had the ignition on and engine off looking through the E tuner settings on my phone when I noticed that the AFR readings started out at 10 then after around 45 seconds slowly worked their way up to 22.8. So I started the engine and the reading levelled back off at 13.4-13.7. The next morning I waited to start the engine until the readings moved from 10 and it worked the entire drive down to my work parking lot. It seemed as if the O2 sensor would read correctly as long as I waited the ~45 seconds or so until the AFR reading changed on the display before starting the engine.
Tuesday on the way home from work I developed a miss in once cylinder. I figured the O2 sensor readings being funky probably let to a fouled plug. So on Friday afternoon I pulled a few plugs and found some that were definitely on the rich side. I also found a plug wire that had burnt on the header - there was the miss I felt.
I had been hearing a ticking noise while the engine was running I wanted to investigate. So on Saturday I pulled the headers, spark plugs, and valve covers. I found that most of the plugs showed signs of running very rich. The headers actually looked like they were sealed quite well, but quite a few of the rockers were on the loose side. So I tightened the rockers, installed new valve cover gaskets, reinstalled the plugs and headers and started it up. The O2 sensor which had been working if I waited to start the engine, seems to have gone tits up. It now only reads 10 or 22.8 nothing in between. On the bright side, the ticking noise I was hearing must've been the valve train, because its gone now!
So I ordered up a new 02 sensor and she's parked until it gets here. Anyone else having issues with the 02 sensors on this system? I'm hoping it was just the initial setup and being a new motor that led to the failure right out of the gate. I don't really want to replace $90 sensors all the time.
One other question for the group is what is your method for adjusting the valve train on the vortec engines? I have read multiple guides/how-to's and there seems to be a wide array of methods ranging from tighten until the vertical play is gone from the rocker, to tighten one full turn past when pushrod rotation stops. I've even seen a recommendation to adjust them while the engine is running?
Anyone have a good method for adjusting the rockers after the intake manifold is on? I simply tightened until the vertical play was gone and the side to side motion was stiff.
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Generally speaking the rocker adjustment should be the same for any push rod, hydraulic lifter engine as long as you have a type that can be adjusted. I don't know if you can watch this video, but it's all about making the adjustment. https://www.motortrendondemand.com/detail/how-to-adjust-hydraulic-lifter-rocker-arms/23302/ Maybe you can get a free trial to watch the video. It is adjusting the rockers with engine assembled; only the valve cover is removed - obviously. You do have to rotate the motor because the valves need to be in the correct open/close position for each valve. The engine would not have to be running either.
From my reading on the PF4, the 10.0 you see on AFR is what it'll read until it's warmed up. I had read about that in a thread with someone that had the problem of the engine dying when putting it in gear. They said you shouldn't start driving until it's not reading 10.0 which is also when you should have a green light on the "closed loop".
Ironically I had to replace the O2 sensor but due to my own mistake. I welded the bung in my exhaust while I still had the carburetor installed. I went ahead and installed the O2 sensor and drove it 20 miles home with the O2 sensor installed but not plugged in. Later I read in the PF4 instructions where it specifically said not to do that because it WILL damage the sensor. My understanding is the damage occurs because the sensor can't be heated up so it gets carbon fouled quickly. This is the replacement sensor that I found from the PF4 forum: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/BCH-17025 It was a nice $90 lesson.
I think @Kain had trouble with his O2 sensor.
From my reading on the PF4, the 10.0 you see on AFR is what it'll read until it's warmed up. I had read about that in a thread with someone that had the problem of the engine dying when putting it in gear. They said you shouldn't start driving until it's not reading 10.0 which is also when you should have a green light on the "closed loop".
Ironically I had to replace the O2 sensor but due to my own mistake. I welded the bung in my exhaust while I still had the carburetor installed. I went ahead and installed the O2 sensor and drove it 20 miles home with the O2 sensor installed but not plugged in. Later I read in the PF4 instructions where it specifically said not to do that because it WILL damage the sensor. My understanding is the damage occurs because the sensor can't be heated up so it gets carbon fouled quickly. This is the replacement sensor that I found from the PF4 forum: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/BCH-17025 It was a nice $90 lesson.
I think @Kain had trouble with his O2 sensor.
I like to go 1/4" turn past zero lash on the rocker adjustment, but realistically anything from just over zero to almost one turn would probably work. The most common is somewhere between 1/4 - 3/4 turn past zero. I just feel the pushrod slop with my one had while I slowly tighten the nut with my other. You can either feel the pushrod if there is space or the rocker tip itself if there isn't room to wiggle or spin the pushrod.
The 02 sensor does take time to heat up before it will work. Moisture will also ruin it, if you fouled a plug because of a burned wire, was it on the same side as the 02 sensor? That could do it if it had raw fuel in that exhaust pipe. Also, make sure the 02 sensor is angled correctly so it doesn't have moisture soak into it.
The 02 sensor does take time to heat up before it will work. Moisture will also ruin it, if you fouled a plug because of a burned wire, was it on the same side as the 02 sensor? That could do it if it had raw fuel in that exhaust pipe. Also, make sure the 02 sensor is angled correctly so it doesn't have moisture soak into it.
Thanks for the video! I just signed up for MotorTrend On Demand last week. That adjustment technique was pretty similar to what I had been following except for turning the engine over to hit each valve as it sits on the fully closed position. I had been going on the advice to adjust all closed valves at #1 TDC compression, rotate 360 and adjust the rest of the closed valves. I will follow this routine going forward.
Yes the burned wire was on the same side as the O2 sensor. Also, I read on the edelbrock forum today that you don't want to wait to start the engine until the O2 sensor warms up because the fuel/exhaust hitting the sensor after it is warm will "shock" it and cause premature failure. So possibly between the fouled plug and the waiting to start that caused the failure.
Interesting. So you don't wait to start, but you DO wait to drive.
Funny thing is, I've never paid attention to that on the Sniper EFI. Now I'm curious if it reads 10.0 for the first few seconds too and I've just never noticed.
Kain
3/4 ton status
i did they sent a new o2 sensor right out.also rockauto has o2 sensors way cheaper at 64 and ebay for 52
Thanks for the info. I actually picked up a non-bosch sensor for online $52, so hopefully it works out. Locally O'Reilly's and Napa wanted $90 and AutoZone wanted $127. If this one doesn't work out I may have to pony up the $90 for a bosch sensor.
Did you contact Edelbrock to see if they would warranty it? Maybe they would want to know if they have a product problem.
Did you contact Edelbrock to see if they would warranty it? Maybe they would want to know if they have a product problem.
I have not, but I suppose you have a good point. And from what @Kain posted I suppose they might just take care of it.
Well I called, waited on hold for 20 minutes then the automated message said they will call me back. So I left them a email message on their contact page. We shall see if I get the call back or an email reply.
Kain
3/4 ton status
did you test the o2 sensor like they show in vid on youtube with a lighter?
Yes, a few times. Some of the time it worked fine, other times it still read at 10 or 22.8.
I'm going to pull it and test it again tonight.
Ok, so I went out pulled the sensor and did the butane test . . .nothin. Next I unplugged it, plugged it back in did the butane test again . . .this time it worked. So I re-installed the sensor, started her up and it was reading fine again. Just now Edelbrock called me back had me adjust AFR target, spark control settings, vacuum advance, and fuel modifiers. It seems to be running quite a bit better for the short time we had her running on the phone. So now I just need to put some miles on it and see what happens.
I'm wondering if it was a bad connection on the sensor plug???
I'm going to keep a close eye on the AFR to make sure its reading correctly and I'll have another one on hand later this week.
I'm wondering if it was a bad connection on the sensor plug???
I'm going to keep a close eye on the AFR to make sure its reading correctly and I'll have another one on hand later this week.
Kain
3/4 ton status
would look st the pins close to see if they by chance have corrosion on em
fwiw, I've got 60k on an s&j 350 with zero issues.
Thanks, that is encouraging to hear and gives a little boost of confidence
The O2 sensor worked for one day then got stuck at 22.8 again, good thing I ordered one in. I plugged in the new sensor on Friday and it has been working since. The setting changes made when on the phone with Edelbrock caused issues with the engine dying every time I stopped or put it in gear. So I re-set back to the setup wizard selected map (5017) and the dying stopped . . . .for a day. Short term fuel trim on the 5017 map started out running -30 to -15 pretty regularly. But I put around 100 miles on yesterday and the miles helped. Fuel trim is still reading around -25 when coasting downhill, but otherwise its in the single digits. I took another drive to town last night and it started dying again when putting in gear and when coming to a stop. After reading through the Pro Flo 4 thread again I decided to drop my idle down and try that. That seemed to help. So tonight I'll drop the idle some more and adjust the IAC and see if that cures it.
Its nice to finally put some miles on the new engine and Pro Flo system finally! I can tell the 383 definitely has more grunt right off the line than the 350 did, but I think my shitty 3.42 gearing is hiding any gains once I get up to speed. I will say it will cruise down the highway at 65 much easier now. Almost time to do the first oil change and adjust the valves.
I still need to decide how to handle the TCC lockup though. Trying to decide between the quick and dirty switch on the dashboard or order the TCI vacuum kit.
Its nice to finally put some miles on the new engine and Pro Flo system finally! I can tell the 383 definitely has more grunt right off the line than the 350 did, but I think my shitty 3.42 gearing is hiding any gains once I get up to speed. I will say it will cruise down the highway at 65 much easier now. Almost time to do the first oil change and adjust the valves.
I still need to decide how to handle the TCC lockup though. Trying to decide between the quick and dirty switch on the dashboard or order the TCI vacuum kit.
