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4'' Lift Excessive Pinion Angle?

I can tell just by the pic that the vibes are coming from the shaft/u-joint angles.

Cheapest way out is a slip yoke CV, this will retain an original slip yoke at the t-case with a double cardan joint (this is what I had done). None of your old driveshaft parts can be re-used cause GM originally used some special press in yokes that no outside shaft shop ever bothered to buy the tooling for. It's easy enough for them to just replace the whole unit at minimal additional cost. And your original slip yoke is not a CV type, so you'll need a new one of those anyways. I had a local shop build me a new shaft with a slip yoke CV for about $300. To save money for me they utilized a used CV they had on the shelf.

Basically, it broke down to...
New, slip yoke (CV/double cardan style)
Used/rebuilt, CV assembly
New, u-joint yoke (CV end)
New, shaft/tube
New, u-joint yoke (axle end)
New, u-joints

I can tell you it runs smooth and true upwards of 90 mph.
 
Thats good to hear, I spoke with tom woods driveline and they went on and on about needing a SYE in conjunction with a CV shaft. So you're running a slip CV shaft with no vibrations? If that's the case, I'm definitely going that route. Hopefully I can have my local shop build me one for around 300. Thanks for your input
 
I just went through similar problems. There are a lot of good answers. :waytogo:

I wonder if dropping the tranny cross member a little bit would help? :dunno:

I've seen it done before.
 
Its already got the factory 1" spacer in place, I'm afraid to drop it anymore because it could make the front shaft bind. I have already clearanced the front CV and hope that's the only mod ill have to do on the front. I think I'm just gonna sack up and spend the money on a CV shaft.
 
It does not come spaced from the factory, but the spacers are there. If yours are not in place, look inside the frame rail at the tcase crossmember. There should be a space there; just relocate it.
tybajata.jpg
 
After you get a CV shaft, relocate those spacers back to the top of the frame rail. Between the frame and x-member (like shown) puts stress on the frame rail that it wasn't designed to hold. I've seen them crack or break the lower part of the frame rail right off. Prob not an issue for a mostly street driven and mild off road rig, but start getting twisted up or dragging that x-member over rocks and it will eventually fail.

And, yeah, TW will try and sell you on the SYE cause that's what they sell and that's their job. Don't get me wrong, it's an awesome set up, but for a street driven and mild off roader, you'll get by just fine with a slip yoke CV shaft.

Check with High Angle Driveline and Tattons (can be found on ebay) for pricing as well.
 
Those factory spacers are not for dropping the transfer case. They are to obtain greater bolt stretch and keep the bolts tight. If you did want the case lowered, you should use a piece of square stock as long as the crossmember is. With just two stress points you can bend or crack the frame - although a lot of people have gotten away with it for a while.

When getting the driveshaft built or modified, make sure all of the measurements are taken with the crossmember up where it belongs.
 
That makes sense, never thought that was their purpose. Once I get my shaft made ill swap them over. Thanks for the insight
 
And, yeah, TW will try and sell you on the SYE cause that's what they sell and that's their job. Don't get me wrong, it's an awesome set up, but for a street driven and mild off roader, you'll get by just fine with a slip yoke CV shaft.

Very true. For a wheeler, you like it cause if you brake a rear shaft, you can just pull it off and drive out on the front (like a 205, 203, or any other fixed output tcase). But for just driving on the street and mild stuff, don't worry about the SYE
 
I sent Kert my measurements and he is going to see if he has something that will work laying around. Hopefully he can hook me up!
 
Just curious, is that a 241 TCase? For the 208 like I have, Tom Woods has whole SYE kits including shaft for $570 IIRC. Seems like 241 should only be cheaper. I got a shaft from Tom Woods for my Scout for $220 or so with a splined shaft and CV. All smaller stuff of course.

Anyway, I agree that the easiest way out is to just buy a slip yoke CV shaft and put it in. Looks like the angles are right for it, and even better with spacing removed to get just a hint of up angle on the pinion side. I have a slip CV on mine (from Tom Woods - his place was called something else 15-20 years ago when I got mine), and haven't had any trouble. Interesting that he is discouraging it now - or pushing the SYE... did he quote a price on the CV shaft?
 
The SYE and CV shaft was $725 shaft only was a little over $400. Way more than I'm looking to spend, especially since ill never need that kind of beef in a drive shaft.
 
The SYE and CV shaft was $725 shaft only was a little over $400. Way more than I'm looking to spend, especially since ill never need that kind of beef in a drive shaft.

That seems really high. I wonder what's so special about the shaft. Or maybe the $570 deal assumes some puny shaft for some reason... :dunno:
 
I thought the same. Either way, SYE is out of the question due to expense. Seeing as how others have had good luck with a slip CV I'm gonna go that route.
 
My local driveshaft guy said he would make me a 1350 slip yoke CV drive shaft for around $700.
He has a solid reputation for being knowledgable, honest, and fair.

Right now I'm running angles that are not ideal. I'm hitting the trail next weekend. Wish me luck. :D
 
Lord have mercy I hope Kert can hook me up with a used shaft. $700 is too rich for my blood. And yea, good luck!
 
I wonder if TW makes up prices on the fly or what. I emailed him and $570 is for a 1310 shaft with SYE. For a 1350 with SYE it's $750. Not sure how that compares to what you were offered for $725. Either way it doesn't sound bad compared to $700 for just driveshaft. :eek1: What makes this stuff so expensive?
 

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