I can tell just by the pic that the vibes are coming from the shaft/u-joint angles.
Cheapest way out is a slip yoke CV, this will retain an original slip yoke at the t-case with a double cardan joint (this is what I had done). None of your old driveshaft parts can be re-used cause GM originally used some special press in yokes that no outside shaft shop ever bothered to buy the tooling for. It's easy enough for them to just replace the whole unit at minimal additional cost. And your original slip yoke is not a CV type, so you'll need a new one of those anyways. I had a local shop build me a new shaft with a slip yoke CV for about $300. To save money for me they utilized a used CV they had on the shelf.
Basically, it broke down to...
New, slip yoke (CV/double cardan style)
Used/rebuilt, CV assembly
New, u-joint yoke (CV end)
New, shaft/tube
New, u-joint yoke (axle end)
New, u-joints
I can tell you it runs smooth and true upwards of 90 mph.
Cheapest way out is a slip yoke CV, this will retain an original slip yoke at the t-case with a double cardan joint (this is what I had done). None of your old driveshaft parts can be re-used cause GM originally used some special press in yokes that no outside shaft shop ever bothered to buy the tooling for. It's easy enough for them to just replace the whole unit at minimal additional cost. And your original slip yoke is not a CV type, so you'll need a new one of those anyways. I had a local shop build me a new shaft with a slip yoke CV for about $300. To save money for me they utilized a used CV they had on the shelf.
Basically, it broke down to...
New, slip yoke (CV/double cardan style)
Used/rebuilt, CV assembly
New, u-joint yoke (CV end)
New, shaft/tube
New, u-joint yoke (axle end)
New, u-joints
I can tell you it runs smooth and true upwards of 90 mph.




What makes this stuff so expensive?