If you want, a .25" X 1.5" piece of steel hammered and formed can be welded to the outside of your diff cover to protect the ring gear. I would incorporate something to keep the bottom holes on the rear flush so the rocks can't peel it open
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4" Lift w/One Ton Swap / 37" Tires.....Seems TALL!
- Thread starter Glen1978
- Start date
Glen1978
Registered Member
I usually grind the bottom of 14 bolts smooth but didnt on this one. I might get under there and do that during some down time waiting on the rear driveshaft.
If you don't buy a cover, reinforcing that one before you grind is a good idea. Never got mine to stay sealed without protection on the lower 3 bolts. I also used header bolts. Wasn't much left on the bottom when I sold it
Glen1978
Registered Member
Thinking about it I should wait till I get a cover before grinding. That way I dont grind too much.
I've got 4" and 37"s. No other lift pieces.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/80-jimmy-the-monkey-paw-more-rust.325135/page-2#post-3620133
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/80-jimmy-the-monkey-paw-more-rust.325135/page-2#post-3620133
Glen1978
Registered Member
Wish I could see your pics. Might be my computer at work not allowing them.
Probably blocking photobucket.
Lizarddog
Registered Member
I'm going thru the same thing. Installed a 4" lift and zero-rates and the truck seems way higher than I expected. I had it stock for about a year so maybe I'm just not used to it? These are 36" tires. Looks like our trucks are about the same height. 
Glen1978
Registered Member
Exactly. From what I read I was thinking I would have to do the little 1" body lift and cut the crap out of the sheetmetal to fit em. Kinda wishing now I woulda left the zero rates out. Id rather cut a little and have a lower COG.
Now I have no actual proof, but more than once it has been suggested that there is more lift compared to stock because the stock springs are sagging more than we realize.So I guess that if there is some truth to that, then fresh lift springs will make the change more dramatic.
But also remember that the larger axle tubes give a lift as does a D60.
I take it you didn't move the axle forward any? I have the same springs and zero rate and plan on moving the axle forward 1.5, can't find a straight answer on which crossover will work. Guess i'll just call ORD monday and talk to them.
Glen1978
Registered Member
No axle stayed put in the front. I only moved rear axle back.
Lizarddog
Registered Member
I did the same thing.
Glen1978
Registered Member
I didnt want to have to build a front shaft too.
looks good to me. Plenty of room for flexing. Might want to double check your droop on the front, that's a lot of lift for a stock d-shaft.
Glen1978
Registered Member
Yeah Im afraid of that Big Ray! The front shaft already hits the exhaust but thats not big deal....exhaust was planned into this from just street. BUT it will just have to be lengthened so that wont be as costly.......allthought it would might behoove me to change out to 1350 joints.
This is a great thread. Doesn't mean spend a bunch of money, but lots of info.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/how-much-front-driveshaft-slip.324435/
Also search tom woods, their site is very informative
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/how-much-front-driveshaft-slip.324435/
Also search tom woods, their site is very informative
