DavidB
1/2 ton status
I was thinking about running a J**P or Super Duty box. They mount to the inside of the frame. Sold my CJ box. 
CK5
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44" tall X 12" Wide XMLs. My build thread.
- Thread starter DavidB
- Start date
ask and you shall recieveDavidB said:
The body may be a 51 dodge m-37 but the frame is amodified suburban frame.
The tires don't rub, but they do get pretty close.
DavidB
1/2 ton status
Think the hub/knuckle/brgs will hold up? 
Only the driver's side DRW hub is on. Spaced it about 4" out. Doesn't hit the steering box any more.
Only the driver's side DRW hub is on. Spaced it about 4" out. Doesn't hit the steering box any more.
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DavidB
1/2 ton status
howdiy said:
220#
01maroonz71
1/2 ton status
if you swapped the pitman arm to the front, then when you turn right...you'd go left, etc. badass rig though man, just skimmed through the build....
DavidB
1/2 ton status
01maroonz71 said:
Haha, that's a lot of skimming.
Yeah you're right...it was a late night idea.
CDA 455
3/4 ton status
How about some profile pics of the rig?
DavidB
1/2 ton status
Did other side. More pics up in photobucket. "WIDE LOAD"
DavidB
1/2 ton status
muddermilitia said:ask and you shall recieve
The body may be a 51 dodge m-37 but the frame is amodified suburban frame.
The tires don't rub, but they do get pretty close.
Thanks for the pic. Pretty nice.
Note how deep his wheels are and how shallow mine are.
DavidB
1/2 ton status
More work to do to tidy it up, but that's about it for the body. I cut the inner and outer fenders about 2-3" (where material was available) in/down towards the tire from where I wanted the openings to be. Then folded the inner fender in where I wanted the opening with some sheetmetal vise grips, folded the outer in over the inner, and tacked together. This keeps everything pretty rigid. I used the body line for a convenient place to fold the outer, and keeps the fenders even. Might tub the back later. The rear fender opening has more clearance to the rear because I am going to move the axle rearward and lower the back with 56" springs later. The front of it is pretty close to stock. The passenger side is messy cuz I relocated the fuel filler rearward. Tank will probably get relocated up/back later anyway.
DavidB
1/2 ton status
DavidB
1/2 ton status
D'oh. Blazer won't run. Pump runs, starts, fires, runs for a couple seconds, dies. It's TBI. I can see the injectors squirting. It's been running kinda rough and rich lately. Replaced fuel filter, was kinda dirty, checked all the connectors, fuses, plugs, wires, dist, everything I could think of. Needs to be plugged in at a shop or are their other ways I can diagnose it? The check engine light flashes once or twice and goes steady when I turn the key on. Are the flashes indicating something?
The check engine light shouldn't be trying to indicate a code unless you are jumping the A and B terminals on the ALDL (near your left knee as you are sitting, key on, not started.) Do a search and you'll find out to get codes.
I just dealt with a similar problem, but no fuel through the TBI when cranking. The fuel pump would turn on, but the injectors would not pulse. It ended up being a bad connection to a failing oil pressure switch. This is the one behind the distributor and not near the O2 sensor (on the drivers side). Once I fixed the connection, the truck would run fine in neutral, and die when put in gear, most likely to the drop in oil pressure. I replaced the switch, and it is now good as new (or old). The switch was $5.
Not sure if that's going to be your problem or not, but it sounds a little similar to my problem. It's worth looking at.
I just dealt with a similar problem, but no fuel through the TBI when cranking. The fuel pump would turn on, but the injectors would not pulse. It ended up being a bad connection to a failing oil pressure switch. This is the one behind the distributor and not near the O2 sensor (on the drivers side). Once I fixed the connection, the truck would run fine in neutral, and die when put in gear, most likely to the drop in oil pressure. I replaced the switch, and it is now good as new (or old). The switch was $5.
Not sure if that's going to be your problem or not, but it sounds a little similar to my problem. It's worth looking at.
DavidB
1/2 ton status
Thanks.
Baugh. Having no luck finding how to get codes.
Baugh. Having no luck finding how to get codes.
Use a wire or paper clip to jump the A and B terminals of the ALDL. Those are the upper right two holes on the ALDL terminal. Turn the key on, but do not start the vehicle. Check engine light will flash 12 12 12 (it will be one flash, pause, then 2 flashes; like morse code) That is normal. If the ecm is throwing a code, count the flashes after the code 12 to get a two number code. There may be none, there may be many, just pay attention to the flashes to represent a 2 digit code. There are plenty of other websites that describe it better, try googling it.
DavidB
1/2 ton status
DavidB
1/2 ton status
Borrowed a Snap-On Scanner...NO CODES
Did the paperclip. 12 12 12 12 12 12 12....NO CODES.
Did the paperclip. 12 12 12 12 12 12 12....NO CODES.
DavidB
1/2 ton status
Got it. in tank hose between pump and line was poofed. pump ran and made enough pressure to start, but not run. ran with brake cleaner being sprayed in the TB, so we knew we had a fuel prob.
DavidB
1/2 ton status
Question. I had some Fuel Injection Hose laying around that was the correct (3/8") ID, but the OD is smaller, so the plastic clamps don't close tight. It works OK without them, but I wonder. I thought about putting metal hose clamps on, but I don't know if I should be concerned about the chance of spark with them in there. Maybe the factory used plastic for a reason.
