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454 Motor build

I do my initials. RV. The unknowing think it stands for recreational vehicle....
 
Given the cost of crate motors these days, I don't see the point in having a shop do a basic rebuild on a motor any more. By the time you factor in machining and labor costs, often it will be close to or even exceed the cost of a new long block crate motor even if you do already have a running motor. MAYBE if you really do have the low mile block that doesn't need to bored out, and it truly only needs a honing, fresh set of rings and bearings, but even still, I'd think labor costs of engine cleaning/honing/assembly would still run up pretty quick.

That said, yes, big blocks are still expensive, even on basic long block motors. But if you're good with a basic small block, a brand spanking new L31 Vortec can still be had for under 2 grand shipped which I came VERY close to buying for my K5, but ended up finding a "deal" on a low mile 454, that turned out to be not so good of a deal...the only things I'm retaining is the block and head castings. Everything else is getting changed out, and the prices run up quick with big blocks. That said, once this thing is together, it WILL be a power house of a motor, lol. Keep in mind that switching to the 454 is going to require exhaust mods, and a larger radiator as well, and maybe a transmission/axle upgrade. Depending on what you get/have, or have to have a shop do, and where you want to be power wise, you may well be better off cost wise anyways getting a small block, and some performance mods.

And after having driven a stock 90's 454, it ain't no powerhouse of a motor, lol. It's a good towing/torque motor, but more like a diesel - it ain't fast, but it won't slow down with a load either. Unless you're going to be doing some serious towing, or turning huge tires off road, it may not be worth the cost in the end.
 
Big Ray said:
I do my initials. RV. The unknowing think it stands for recreational vehicle....
Click to expand...


One of my favorite Bluegrass artists initials are "RV"..Rhonda Vincent......:D
People often confuse her initials for "recreational vehicle"..

One of the racers I mentioned used to stamp "JUNK" or "SCRAP" on some of his parts ,in hopes any thieves would pass on them thinking they were no good!..;)..and he'd stamp his initials on the oil pan flange on the block too..
 
urbex said:
Given the cost of crate motors these days, I don't see the point in having a shop do a basic rebuild on a motor any more. By the time you factor in machining and labor costs, often it will be close to or even exceed the cost of a new long block crate motor even if you do already have a running motor. MAYBE if you really do have the low mile block that doesn't need to bored out, and it truly only needs a honing, fresh set of rings and bearings, but even still, I'd think labor costs of engine cleaning/honing/assembly would still run up pretty quick.

That said, yes, big blocks are still expensive, even on basic long block motors. But if you're good with a basic small block, a brand spanking new L31 Vortec can still be had for under 2 grand shipped which I came VERY close to buying for my K5, but ended up finding a "deal" on a low mile 454, that turned out to be not so good of a deal...the only things I'm retaining is the block and head castings. Everything else is getting changed out, and the prices run up quick with big blocks. That said, once this thing is together, it WILL be a power house of a motor, lol. Keep in mind that switching to the 454 is going to require exhaust mods, and a larger radiator as well, and maybe a transmission/axle upgrade. Depending on what you get/have, or have to have a shop do, and where you want to be power wise, you may well be better off cost wise anyways getting a small block, and some performance mods.

And after having driven a stock 90's 454, it ain't no powerhouse of a motor, lol. It's a good towing/torque motor, but more like a diesel - it ain't fast, but it won't slow down with a load either. Unless you're going to be doing some serious towing, or turning huge tires off road, it may not be worth the cost in the end.
Click to expand...

I was looking for the $1800 L31 the other day, and couldn't find it. Looks like it was discontinued, then replaced with one $500 more expensive.
 
Scoggin dickey has it for $1999...I checked before I made that post. There's a couple places in the East coast that always are a couple hundred cheaper than SD, but I can't recall the names at the moment.
 
I must've been remembering things wrong. It was a while back when I was looking for a friend. Could swear it was up to around $2300 at Summit.
 
Its entirely possible it is/was. I've noticed that Summit isn't even in line with some prices, much less on the lower end of competitive, on some of this kind of stuff these days. Just like the 489 rotating assembly I bought earlier this year...it was nearly $400 cheaper at Jegs, and a number of engine houses on the east coast. Then again, it took months to actually get it, and several angry phone calls to Jegs, so maybe I would have been better off just spending the extra with Summit, lol.
 
Going to call and talk to this race motor shop tomorrow. See what they have to say.

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Shafiroff. Pretty good shop. Lots of fast cars out there running their engines. They will set you up.
 
No need to get crazy, call up Straub Technologies and tell him your goals and what it’s going in and have him spec a cam, do a stock rebuild if it needs it, some better valve springs and the Comp products adjustable rocker arm kit, add good flowing exhaust and intake and it should make 400 hp and over 500ft lbs.

Stock the gen vi makes good power , 310 with factory EFI bone stock, breathing mods and a cam change is worth a solid 75 hp.
 
It’s way overkill for just playing in the rocks, but a little mud boggin requires some HP and TQ. This would get the job done. Lol!
 
I’ve been watching this youtube 454 engine build video series: 620HP/467 street/strip 454 build. Very informative.



Its a local engine builder here in Gardena Ca. Where I got my HP & TQ numbers I spouted from. I know its a very atainable, reasonably mild built 454 to a 467 ci making 620 hp & like 690lb tq. And will safely spin 7k. Supposedly. Its a long video series with lots of episodes, complete engine build through Every step of an engine build. Machining of Every part. Its a standard engine 454 build they do. Street/strip/off road build. Nothing crazy. They say they’re not looking to build a $10k motor.

They use GM 781 cast heads. They show how they flow test and bench the heads. And why they choose those heads. They show how they choose a engine block core and head cores. Diffences in the few good cast steel heads available. They’re like 50+ motors backlogged.

So I talked to a shop in El Monte. They can do it but again a back log. So I’ve decided to take it to after speaking with them to take this 454 to Paull Phaff Engines.
http://www.pfaffengines.com. In Huntington Beach. They built my buddies 540 625 hp/685tq motor, and that motor hauls freakin ass! in his 66’ chevelle. But its a Mild 540 big time. I asked if they only built race motirs, the guy so no we build pretty much anything. I explained about This particular 454 pictured posted above, and my K5 and the 73’ smog exempt truck of course it is for here in Cali.

I told him I built it to pass CA. CARB rules, but thet was when it was going in the 89’ still requiring smog. Not an issue now so I can actually upgrade and build it with a set of Al. Heads and cam and intake and EFI induction tgat all works together. This motor was built at about 9:1 compression if I remember correctly, cam soecks I can’t remember but a CA Legal CARB spec Cam that was suposed to work with the stock TBI and this Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold to gain some performance over stock.

I honestly Can’t remember at All if I replaced pistons or just re-ringed them. Thats why I just want to have an engine shop re-go through it. See if I built it Right however many years ago. Replace the parts needing replacing, and put it back together. Now, if there is an issue, I can go to the 96’ Vortec 454 I have with a one piece rear main seal style block. If I Hadn’t Already had this 89’ engine rebuilt and assembled, I probably would not mess with it, but it Is still a stock perfectly Good 454 4- bolt main block.

Thats a high nickle block. And has the Good GM rods in it. So they were reused. I had to replace one where the rod bearing spun. Why I put a new steel GM crank in it. Didn’t heat the block in the main saddle either. Block & main cap is solid. Just one rod replaced with a matching rod. Everything ballanced as well.
 
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