What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

468 BB Chevy - What is this worth?

ZombieK5 said:
No, this is very informative as this goes on. It would add alot of unrelated items to the Build. I will be adding a summary of this entire thread once I get the engine out of the Blazer and can better figure out what else is inside.
Click to expand...
As I'm sitting here reading this entire thread and watching Pale Rider, I have a few things running in my head that I have learned thru my project. If you have to pull the pistons, have them line bored. I did with my 400 and I have no knock at all. Ever. Regardless of timing. I bought a reconditioned crank since my old original crank was kinda egg shaped. I used my original pistons with a new Comp Cams kit which included an xtreme4x4 cam, double roller sprocket and chain, roller rockers, lifters and rods. New intake and World Products cast iron heads. Remote oil filter adapter so I could run a 2 qt oil filter and a remote oil cooler. 7 qt. Moroso oil pan, oil pump and pickup. Jegs 65k volt coil and distributor with a Pertronix ignition module. So far, works better than an MSD and quite a bit cheaper. Everything I have done to this engine has been for torque down low and so far, I have not been disappointed. If you want to run a Qjet, you will need an 800cfm one. Mine is a 750 and I am probably pushing it. Also, I have picked up a set of 81 Corvette exhaust manifolds, had them trued up and soon will be able to have my exhaust redone. I have had to deal with Cali smog stupidity so that has also affected my decisions along the way, but it also passed smog with zero problems. FWIW.

Joel
norcal
 
@Joel Wilson
Your engine description terms are a bit confusing. line boring refers to the crankshaft caps/block. And then are you refering to rod or main bearing knock? I don’t see how line boring the block could prevent timing knock?
 
82355 said:
Huh?

Martin
Click to expand...
It makes sure that all the connecting rods are 100% true in regards to how they bolt to the crank. My terminology may not be correct so forgive me there. It made a difference in both vibrations and knocking in my 400
 
If you have knocking in your engine you need more than just resizing your connecting rods. You also need to change the exhaust belt and the blinker fluid at a minimum. ;)

I can't say I recommend a Jeg's coil over a genuine MSD unit though.

Pale Rider is awesome BTW.

We'll get your terminology figured out.
 
folkenheath said:
If you have knocking in your engine you need more than just resizing your connecting rods. You also need to change the exhaust belt and the blinker fluid at a minimum. ;)

I can't say I recommend a Jeg's coil over a genuine MSD unit though.

Pale Rider is awesome BTW.

We'll get your terminology figured out.
Click to expand...
It would knock if I adjusted the timing too far and romped on it. Now it doesnt. I have just had a lot of bad luck with MSD boxes and coils.
 
82355 said:
You resized the big end of the connecting rods?

Martin
Click to expand...
I guess you could say that. The wear marks on the crank were not even so I picked up a reconditioned crank with correct size bearings and had the machine shop up the road clean up the con rods. He has a special machine that does only that.
 
Reconditioning rods is quite common along with resizing the big end, which would require measuring all of the set for proper length. I not seeing how timing is connected to the resizing though?
 
76zimmer said:
Reconditioning rods is quite common along with resizing the big end, which would require measuring all of the set for proper length. I not seeing how timing is connected to the resizing though?
Click to expand...
Maybe one had nothing to do with the other.. All I can say is that before and after, way different engines. It would knock before and not after the rebuild and I can give an exact list of what I changed before and after. Not trying to argue at all but if you could prove what would cause knocking before but not after, I'm all ears. Cause at this point, I'd really like to know why. I can give pics of the cam and crankshaft before the rebuild, just not after since its installed and what not.

Joel
norcal
 
folkenheath said:
The crank appears externally balanced so its most likely confirmed a 4" stroke crank (along with the piston number confirming)

Based on the year of block, TRW pistons, and roller tipped rocker arms, I will guess hydraulic flat tappet on the camshaft, but its certainly possible someone swapped in a retrofit hydraulic roller, or a solid flat tappet (would have some lash slop in the rockers, does it?) I know I would.
Click to expand...
After talking with the wife and a buddy that helps me with car projects, I have come to the conclusion that I will rebuild the big block myself. Of course I will have the rotating assembly and the block sent out for refurbishment and I will replace any tired parts. I plan on keeping the 781 heads but I plan on installing new Springs and roller rockers. With my goal of keeping it moderate, what what recommendations would everybody have for Springs, rockers and valves. I do not know yet if the heads have the larger valves but I should know pretty soon. I have rebuilt several engines in the past, just never a big block. My rebuilds have included several small block Chevys and two Yanmar diesel engines and one Perkins Diesel (that was different). I'm assuming it's not much more difficult than any of those, in fact it might be easier since everything is larger. I also have not rebuild an engine in the past 15 years. Once I get the rotating assembly back from The Machinist, is it still recommended to use plastigage to verify the tolerances?

Still set to take engine out Wednesday
 
do you want FULL roller or just TIP ?

you have good roller TIP rockers and unless seeing crazy rpms a lot i would run them .

as said springs match with cam needs . so unless changing cam leave in the springs that work .

blow it all apart and see what you have . you might still have clean bores and journals and no need to do all the rework if its still good .
 
CC ultra pro magnums are sweet full roller rockers, lifetime guarantee too.
see what you have for a cam.... that needs to be dialed in to your engine specs/truck/trans/weight/gears, etc. combo. Then pick your valvetrain needs accordingly.
Same with a torque convertor.
Heath can be a big help here with his engine software programs.
I‘d go for 2.19/1.88 valves in those heads.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom