468 BB Chevy - What is this worth?

76zimmer

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1.72 is typical ratio for a BBC.
gross valve lift on the lobe x 1.72 gives net valve lift.
 

ZombieK5

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CC ultra pro magnums are sweet full roller rockers, lifetime guarantee too.
see what you have for a cam.... that needs to be dialed in to your engine specs/truck/trans/weight/gears, etc. combo. Then pick your valvetrain needs accordingly.
Same with a torque convertor.
Heath can be a big help here with his engine software programs.
I‘d go for 2.19/1.88 valves in those heads.
Are those the "big valves" everyone keeps mentioning?

I will have the heads redone by the machinist including new springs and the larger valves. Is there anything they can do to the heads to improve on their performance beyond the springs, valves and Rockers?
 

Joel Wilson

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CC ultra pro magnums are sweet full roller rockers, lifetime guarantee too.
see what you have for a cam.... that needs to be dialed in to your engine specs/truck/trans/weight/gears, etc. combo. Then pick your valvetrain needs accordingly.
Same with a torque convertor.
Heath can be a big help here with his engine software programs.
I‘d go for 2.19/1.88 valves in those heads.
Question. Are the 2.19/ 1.88 valves for the BBC about the same for 2.02 valves for a small block?
 

Bent77

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Are those the "big valves" everyone keeps mentioning?

I will have the heads redone by the machinist including new springs and the larger valves. Is there anything they can do to the heads to improve on their performance beyond the springs, valves and Rockers?
Blend the bowls and port match everything
 

sweetk30

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stock bbc rocker ratio is 1.7:1 ....... so these at .02 extra are of no major change .

the big improvement for these is consistence over stamped steel factory rockers and less valve tip friction . also these = less maintenance over full roller rockers with jamb nuts .
 

Bent77

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Clean up the combustion chambers and make sure the intake and head ports are perfectly aligned. Requires lots of grinding
 

ZombieK5

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Clean up the combustion chambers and make sure the intake and head ports are perfectly aligned. Requires lots of grinding
OK, that is on the list. Will take the new intake to the machinist along with the heads.

Big Valves
New Springs
New Roller Rockers
Port Match
Blend the Bowls
New ARP Head Bolts
 

sweetk30

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Half the work you think u need might not be needed . Strip it down first and check .

ARP bolts can be reused LOTS of times .

Slow down a hair till you know 100% what you have and might need . . But this is just me from experience :whistle:
 

82355

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OK, that is on the list. Will take the new intake to the machinist along with the heads.

What is wrong with the current aftermarket intake manifold?

What manifold is it? I would see what it is, and then probably just clean it up and reuse it. Why spend $300 for no reason?

Martin
 

ZombieK5

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What is wrong with the current aftermarket intake manifold?

What manifold is it? I would see what it is, and then probably just clean it up and reuse it. Why spend $300 for no reason?

Martin
Looking to swap to EFI system.
 

folkenheath

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Comp frequently uses 1.72 as their rocker ratio, not 1.7. Its just the ratio of cam lobe lift to valve lift. So if the cam lobe has .300, the valve side has .3 x 1.72 = .516" .

To be honest, the ratio of the rocker arm will vary a little depending on where it is in the travel and how long of a pushrod you have, I would just treat it like a 1.7.

Those rocker arms are pretty decent. For a street truck I would recommend them or a full roller rocker if budget allows. Full roller pivot in addition to the roller tip reduces more friction. I still recommend a steel rocker if you drive it often as steel has an infinite fatigue life under a certain stress level, aluminum does not. However, with that said I have seen aluminum rockers go 20 years on a street toy with a hydraulic roller without issue. I've also seen many of them break on solid roller cams, and once one breaks, the others start breaking shortly after.

Some companies now have a lifetime warranty on their roller rockers too, so the materials have improved over the years for aluminum as well.

I can help you pick out the valvetrain if you want, whether you just want new pushrods, or an entirely new valve train with cam, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms and valve springs. Of course we need to figure out what you have first so we can recommend what to replace and what to keep, then you can decide what you want to do.

As the guys have stated, the springs need to match the cam. Although many times, unless you have a way to measure the force, we don't know what springs you have unless you assume they match the cam (risky at times), so that's the first thing to figure out what it is, your cam. Once we know what, we'll have a lot better idea of what you are working with.
 
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ZombieK5

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Comp frequently uses 1.72 as their rocker ratio, not 1.7. Its just the ratio of cam lobe lift to valve lift. So if the cam lobe has .300, the valve side has .3 x 1.72 = .516" .

To be honest, the ratio of the rocker arm will vary a little depending on where it is in the travel and how long of a pushrod you have, I would just treat it like a 1.7.

Those rocker arms are pretty decent. For a street truck I would recommend them or a full roller rocker if budget allows. Full roller pivot in addition to the roller tip reduces more friction. I still recommend a steel rocker if you drive it often as steel has an infinite fatigue life under a certain stress level, aluminum does not. However, with that said I have seen aluminum rockers go 20 years on a street toy with a hydraulic roller without issue. I've also seen many of them break on solid roller cams, and once one breaks, the others start breaking shortly after.

Some companies now have a lifetime warranty on their roller rockers too, so the materials have improved over the years for aluminum as well.

I can help you pick out the valvetrain if you want, whether you just want new pushrods, or an entirely new valve train with cam, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms and valve springs. Of course we need to figure out what you have first so we can recommend what to replace and what to keep, then you can decide what you want to do.

As the guys have stated, the springs need to match the cam. Although many times, unless you have a way to measure the force, we don't know what springs you have unless you assume they match the cam (risky at times), so that's the first thing to figure out what it is, your cam. Once we know what, we'll have a lot better idea of what you are working with.
I'd like to go total new vavletrain. I'll stick with CompCams. They have some nicer higher end stuff. 1 piece push rods, roller cam etc....
 

folkenheath

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A hydraulic roller with new 1 piece pushrods, full roller rockers, and new valve springs, seals, and retainers would get you in tip top shape. Of course, I'll only recommend replacing what I think needs it, maybe not all of it. But if you want to replace it all so you know the history I don't blame you.

It is nice to have new pushrods and rocker arms because it helps the pushrods and cups to break in together, and then you always keep them matched up.

I don't consider full roller rockers more maintenance myself, a solid flat tappet or roller cam yes, you need to periodically check lash. I have not touched the lash on my 489 since I set it new 12 years ago. Its a hydraulic roller(Lunati) with .600" lift and full roller rocker arms (steel from Comp). If you snug the poly locks good they should never loosen, and the hydraulic lifters maintain zero lash regardless of temperature changes, wear, etc.
 

ZombieK5

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A hydraulic roller with new 1 piece pushrods, full roller rockers, and new valve springs, seals, and retainers would get you in tip top shape. Of course, I'll only recommend replacing what I think needs it, maybe not all of it. But if you want to replace it all so you know the history I don't blame you.

It is nice to have new pushrods and rocker arms because it helps the pushrods and cups to break in together, and then you always keep them matched up.

I don't consider full roller rockers more maintenance myself, a solid flat tappet or roller cam yes, you need to periodically check lash. I have not touched the lash on my 489 since I set it new 12 years ago. Its a hydraulic roller(Lunati) with .600" lift and full roller rocker arms (steel from Comp). If you snug the poly locks good they should never loosen, and the hydraulic lifters maintain zero lash regardless of temperature changes, wear, etc.
Doing ALL NEW and the larger valves. Even if it has the larger valves I'll replace them.
 

folkenheath

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If the valves are 2.19 stainless and the tips are still perfect I would just regrind them to fresh (new valve job) and use them.

Ferrea valves are very good if you want one of the best.
 
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