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468 BB Chevy - What is this worth?

You can always add the EFI later once the dust settles after the machine work. Right now you know that intake and carb works for that engine. A stand alone fuel injected Holley 4 barrel is 1300 and change. I would put the money into the rotating assembly that is going to be a pain to replace or upgrade once put together. Then work on the nice to have stuff. My 3 cents. Adjusted for inflation with our crooked government.

Joel
norcal
 
For your application that 2 piece rear main seal cast crank will be fine...assuming its maybe .010/.010 after the first rebuild.
So if indeed those pistons are .030 over, you have a 461 ci, not 468.
IF you decide to replace pistons, I call first dibs on those ones.
looks like you have 2.06/1.72 valves in the heads, fine for low lift econo motors, but I think your decision on going with the Brodix would be a good call, rather than putting new hardware/ labor into those.
4 bolt mains is a nice find. Being a rare block, I would expect that.
 
With respect to flow, how do the Brodix heads you're looking at compare to the 781's (I don't know the 781 flow cfm)? What is the intended rpm range of the motor? Did I see the Brodix heads come with 2.25 intake valves? That's pretty big unless you plan to spin the motor up a lot. Just seems like that might be a ton of head if you really intend to for this to be a sub 5500 rpm motor.

Also, I wonder if those pistons are forged or not? I thought the TRW numbering system put an "F" at the end of the number for forged pistons.
 
These are flow numbers from my 781’s w ports matched and bowls blended...
not sure how much the hand work did over stock 781’s??

intake exhaust @28”
.100--86 73
.200--169 128
.300--237 194
.400--285 216
.500--318 227
.600--319 227


BRODIX..RR-BB-O




4902D67A-541A-4528-845A-3DB3E9435514.jpeg
 
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With respect to flow, how do the Brodix heads you're looking at compare to the 781's (I don't know the 781 flow cfm)? What is the intended rpm range of the motor? Did I see the Brodix heads come with 2.25 intake valves? That's pretty big unless you plan to spin the motor up a lot. Just seems like that might be a ton of head if you really intend to for this to be a sub 5500 rpm motor.

Also, I wonder if those pistons are forged or not? I thought the TRW numbering system put an "F" at the end of the number for forged pistons.
All good questions.

Brodix has 2.18/1.88 heads. Going for those. Unsure about the flow with the 781's. Going Brodix path for the new factor. They are only a few $100 more than the 781's after new parts and machining

Still unknown about the pistons. Should have them out Saturday.

Got the cam out but haven't had time to decode the number. Anyone know what these numbers mean??

20210422_155031(0).jpg

20210422_154955.jpg

20210422_155010.jpg
 
Just found out the timing chain was rather pricey. Not sure which exact model but it is a Cloye Hex-A-Just. They start at $150.

20210422_153359.jpg
 
If your cam duration starts with 20, you might have a small cam...


Just found out the timing chain was rather pricey. Not sure which exact model but it is a Cloye Hex-A-Just. They start at $150.

View attachment 375885


Does that have some droop to it? It looks a little loose, or is it an illusion from the camera lens?

I don't like those adjustable units because they can move. I like to use the 9 keyway units because you can degree them in and then they can't move, they are solid.
 
If your cam duration starts with 20, you might have a small cam...





Does that have some droop to it? It looks a little loose, or is it an illusion from the camera lens?

I don't like those adjustable units because they can move. I like to use the 9 keyway units because you can degree them in and then they can't move, they are solid.
I didn't notice any droop. I'm going with a basic timing chain for a replacement.
 
Agreed, steel gears and a roller chain minimum.
 
Basic double roller i hope and stay away from oem silent chain as they strech out SUPER fast .
Definitely not going OEM. Double for sure but not adjustable.

They guy that installed it didn't put a cover that allowed access to make adjustments. Big waste of an adjustable chain
 
I didn't notice any droop. I'm going with a basic timing chain for a replacement.
I don't recommend that, especially when converting to a retro fit hydraulic roller in an older block that doesn't have a retainer plate.

Flat tappet cam lobes are not flat, that have an offset curved shape that spins the lifter and also slightly thrusts the cam backwards into the block.

Roller cams have a flat lobe so the lifter roller can ride on it smoothly.

This means you have to restrict endplay by adding a cam button, I also like to use a timing set that has a torrington bearing behind the cam sprocket, although this thrust bearing isn't absolutely necessary, a cam button and setting endplay is.

I also like to use a true double roller timing set, not just a double row timing set. True rollers have little spinning rollers on every link to reduce friction and wear on the contact points.
 
I don't recommend that, especially when converting to a retro fit hydraulic roller in an older block that doesn't have a retainer plate.

Flat tappet cam lobes are not flat, that have an offset curved shape that spins the lifter and also slightly thrusts the cam backwards into the block.

Roller cams have a flat lobe so the lifter roller can ride on it smoothly.

This means you have to restrict endplay by adding a cam button, I also like to use a timing set that has a torrington bearing behind the cam sprocket, although this thrust bearing isn't absolutely necessary, a cam button and setting endplay is.

I also like to use a true double roller timing set, not just a double row timing set. True rollers have little spinning rollers on every link to reduce friction and wear on the contact points.
Was looking at this

 

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