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468 BB Chevy - What is this worth?

folkenheath said:
I sent you another PM
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Fresh outta the engine. #5 piston and the crank journal it was on. Bearings included.

Only identifiers on rods was "GMA" and "194"

Guessing old GM rods??

Rod bolts are definitely 3/8 with 24 pitch threads

Can anyone tell if crankshaft has been turned yet... If so how far?

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You have to use a micrometer or caliper to see if they have been turned. They typically only go .010" at a time, can't see that. If its at .030 under then its not recommended to go more even if you can somehow get smaller bearings. Stock is 2.200 journal.

I agree, that 4 bolt main block is a good foundation!
 
folkenheath said:
You have to use a micrometer or caliper to see if they have been turned. They typically only go .010" at a time, can't see that. If its at .030 under then its not recommended to go more even if you can somehow get smaller bearings. Stock is 2.200 journal.

I agree, that 4 bolt main block is a good foundation!
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Here is my micrometer reading.

2.195

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It should definitely be useable at that I would think. .010 or .020 under should be no problem. Once the machinist measures it in multiple directions with a micrometer to check.
 
scott @4X4HIGH use to run his own engine shop for years and sold a few to members here . he told me the same on retro fit roller cams . get a thrust bearing version . he said he always liked the CLOYES brand and had me get a 9-3510tx9 set for my bbc 454 and comp retro fit roller setuup .

 
folkenheath said:
It should definitely be useable at that I would think. .010 or .020 under should be no problem. Once the machinist measures it in multiple directions with a micrometer to check.
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About to head back to work. Got 2 more out but made a boo-boo. One of the caps slipped outta my hand and nicked the 1st journal. You can feel it but not sure if it will make a difference once it's ground down .01

It all went into slow motion as it dropped.

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ZombieK5 said:
About to head back to work. Got 2 more out but made a boo-boo. One of the caps slipped outta my hand and nicked the 1st journal. You can feel it but not sure if it will make a difference once it's ground down .01

It all went into slow motion as it dropped.

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They should be able to clean it up. Part of what you feel is mushroomed out, its likely not as deep as you think, but definitely needs to be fixed. Remember, .010 total is only .005 per side.

Be glad you didn't do it on reassembly, I like to put 3/8" fuel hose over the rod bolts for installation until I get the bearing surface against the crank so I can bolt the cap on. You can also do this for the rest of disassembly, just cut some 2" long pieces of hose.
 
folkenheath said:
They should be able to clean it up. Part of what you feel is mushroomed out, its likely not as deep as you think, but definitely needs to be fixed. Remember, .010 total is only .005 per side.

Be glad you didn't do it on reassembly, I like to put 3/8" fuel hose over the rod bolts for installation until I get the bearing surface against the crank so I can bolt the cap on. You can also do this for the rest of disassembly, just cut some 2" long pieces of hose.
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I used the hose over the bolts...it was the damn cap that slipped out of my hand. Grrrrrr!!!!! :mad:
 
UPDATE

BBC Is being delivered to Machine shop tomorrow.

Ordered first batch of parts from Heath at Volcano Manifolds. Those parts include

Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 EFI Traditional 4150-Style Kit #35830 Chevy Big-Block

Callies BBP425-CS 4.25" Stroke BBC Forged Crankshaft

Decided to make it a stroker and went with the 4.25" crank

ATI Super Damper

TCI Flexplate BBC Internal Balance

Callies Compstar Rods 6.385 BBC #CSB6385ES3B9AH

I also got Heath's Volcano intake insert.

The old crank journals were already .02 over and I didn't want to go smaller.

Didn't get pistons yet. Want to wait for Machinist to see if he want to go 4 over or maybe 6 over.

Never had an internally balanced engine.

Going with the Brodix heads. Going to be a fun few weeks.

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Sounds like a beast in the making!
what’s your cam choice?
 
Did you ever find out if the 781 heads had stock or bigger valves?
 
Might as well share the bad news along with the good. The last main bearing cap (main seal cap near the flex plate) was being a total asshat and would not budge. Grabbed the trusty rubber mallet and gave it a few whacks.. On the 6th or 7th wack the 90degree corner next to the hole where the oil pump shaft passes cracked. Never in a million years did I think that would happen. That corner does not appear to have any purpose and it is not a bearing Surface. I used the Dremel to smooth out the fractured area.

Heath at Volcano Manifolds says it should'nt be an issue and I agree. There is at least a quarter inch gap between the shaft walls and the oil pump drive rod.

Photo attached....

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76zimmer said:
Sounds like a beast in the making!
what’s your cam choice?
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Gonna hold off on that decision until we figure out the piston. Going the roller cam method but not sure on the specs. I am shooting for smooth idle with good rpm. I am not seeking a torque monster but this will have some good torque. I dont want to race Hellcats but the HP should be decent.
 
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