Im curious to what the numbers are on the stamping pad. Might help decipher it's origin. Could be clean too if they machined the deck during the rebuild.I wondered the same thing. Its already .060 over? Some take them .100 if you sonic check them. 505 cubes with more stroke than a ZZ502. Torque Monsta!
Why stop there? You can make a 555 cid short deck these days, or bigger. Tall deck go at least 572, or bigger, 615 is a good number to shoot for.... If you were buying a block anyway.tall deck it and go 555 cid . . .
Why stop there? You can make a 555 cid short deck these days, or bigger. Tall deck go at least 572, or bigger, 615 is a good number to shoot for.... If you were buying a block anyway.
Back to reality. With that block you can easily go 496, just depends on what year it is and if its a factory roller or not what parts you need to do it.
You need gearing for Moab, its easy to overpower some climbs. Its not Madram on a hillclimb!They will customize if requested. Ultimately I have no plans to climb the rocks at MOAB. I want a good looking K5, with the toys I prefer, and reliable. So far my ideas have been solid. Frame off resto (powder coat frame), new engine (383SB), new Tranny (TH400) and ORD 205 transfer case. New custom driveshafts and pretty much new body (or rebuilt from non rusted parts). Custom interior or maybe used Denali seats. If I can fit a rocket launcher or mini gun then that's great too!
EVERYONE, Bear with me. IF I took advice to keep the BB. What estimate could you give me about costs? I wouldn't go cheap but I want to keep it mechanical (no EFI or electric fuel pump - firm on this point).I'm kinda w/ Folken on this. You have a good working big block, if you want more power you're gonna be able to easily make more power with it, and more than likely more torque. Which these chunky beasts never have enough of. And you can still go to a carb setup if that's your wish.
Perhaps consider looking at what would be available to upgrade your BB for the same price as you're looking at the SB.
EVERYONE, Bear with me. IF I took advice to keep the BB. What estimate could you give me about costs? I wouldn't go cheap but I want to keep it mechanical (no EFI or electric fuel pump - firm on this point).
Best Rotating Assembly?
Forged vs Cast crank and Pistons?
Bore over to what size (maybe to a 502)?
Head modifications to handle new block?
Cost for a rebuilder to complete?
New carb recommendations?
Don't hold back, I know you guys won't!
Btw, I'm in Bucks County PA if anyone knows a rebuilder?
Ill watch them.biggest things with stockish BBC engines is 3 fold from what i have read over the years .
lack of GOOD compression ratio for truck engines .
baby cams .
small valves in the heads .
bump the comp / ratio up to around 9.25 - 9.5-1 . might get this with head swap also for a 2 for 1 bump .
then put in a good low to mid range cam for gobbs of low / mid torque .
watch some engine masters shows for bbc builds on the cheep or budget for real dyno #'s / results . i have seen a few and was blown away .
If we go this route, I'd want NEW rotating assembly w forged crank and pistons. Would need to get it balanced or buy it balanced. Was gonna just get new aluminum heads and of course new intake and carb. Would go big so probably settle for making it a 496.If it's in the budget I would replace the heads with an aluminum oval port set, it depends on the condition of your bottom end, and if this budget includes a new carb and intake, and what the machine shop charges. Be careful as these days the labor for heads, especially if they need new guides and/or valve seats, can easily be more than they are worth and most of a new set by the time you get new valve springs, etc.
If you get it align honed, bored, decked, etc it can easily be over a grand in machining. If you just hone the cylinders and polish the crank and put new rings and bearings in, that's a lot cheaper.
If that crank and bore is good, do you plan to replace it anyway so everything is new, or would you reuse it. If you want me to help plan the build I will, just let me know, be happy to help. If you prefer to buy everything from the local machine shop I understand that too. Its very important to find a competent machine shop, so you don't have a bad experience.
I could get you everything for the whole build, or just the cam and top end, or just the carb and intake, or nothing of course. You just let me know what you need help with.