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468 BB Chevy - What is this worth?

Does your intended purpose NEED a new forged crank and pistons?
if you really want to up the ci to 496-502 its going to cost ya alot.
be honest with yourself about your usage, and then give Heath a call!
 
I think you are leaning the right direction!

Pop a valve cover and see what heads you have, check the block casting number as well. Report back.

I doubt you need forged crank or pistons. Might already have them?

Martin
 
Forged crank and forged pistons cost quite a bit more but are definitely a heavy duty upgrade. The only downfall to the forged pistons(other than cost) is the expansion is a little more so they can be a little noisier on startup when the temperature drops if you drive it in the winter, but it goes away when engine is warm. A hypereutectic cast piston is plenty strong for mild performance builds and is quieter. Either way can work great, but the cast is not as strong if you plan any boost or nitrous.

I can get you Edelbrock, Dart, Brodix, RHS, AFR heads, etc. I think you should stick with a Oval Port with a hydraulic roller for a mild performance build.

4.25" stroke crank
6.385" rod
forged piston w/small dome
mild hydraulic roller cam
good double roller chain
aluminum oval port heads
steel roller rocker arms for longevity
Edelbrock RPM air gap intake
whatever carb you prefer. I like Holley, some people prefer Edelbrock/carter style.

Also new oil pump, etc. If budget allows we can get you a new Moroso oil pan and pickup for a little more oil capacity and control.

We need to know what block you have and what bore it is now. The newer blocks have 1 piece rear mains that use a different crank, and the timing cover and oil pans are different. Also the lifters are cheaper for a factory roller block and you don't need a cam button either.

I can likely save you some money on parts. I will also punch everything into my app so we make sure your static and dynamic compression are good safe numbers.
 
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Forged crank and forged pistons cost quite a bit more but are definitely a heavy duty upgrade. The only downfall to the forged pistons(other than cost) is the expansion is a little more so they can be a little noisier on startup when the temperature drops if you drive it in the winter, but it goes away when engine is warm. A hypereutectic cast piston is plenty strong for mild performance builds and is quieter. Either way can work great, but the cast is not as strong if you plan any boost or nitrous.

I can get you Edelbrock, Dart, Brodix, RHS, AFR heads, etc. I think you should stick with a Oval Port with a hydraulic roller for a mild performance build.

4.25" stroke crank
6.385" rod
forged piston w/small dome
mild hydraulic roller cam
good double roller chain
aluminum oval port heads
steel roller rocker arms for longevity
Edelbrock RPM air gap intake
whatever carb you prefer. I like Holley, some people prefer Edelbrock/carter style.

Also new oil pump, etc. If budget allows we can get you a new Moroso oil pan and pickup for a little more oil capacity and control.

We need to know what block you have and what bore it is now. The newer blocks have 1 piece rear mains that use a different crank, and the timing cover and oil pans are different. Also the lifters are cheaper for a factory roller block and you don't need a cam button either.

I can likely save you some money on parts. I will also punch everything into my app so we make sure your static and dynamic compression are good safe numbers.
Ill figure out which block and heads are on it today. Pictures and numbers to follow later today
 
781 HEADS!!!! Nice.... especially if they already have the larger valves installed.


-G
 
OK, given the heads are between 1973 and 1985, where would the block casting number be? The only number I have found so far is the one above the timing chain
 
I thought engine block casting numbers were in the back near the flexplate (top)

-G
 
I thought engine block casting numbers were in the back near the flexplate (top)

-G
I couldn't find the CJ suffix code anywhere, but it looks like the timing cover is tin so it's not a gen VI Vortec at least. Those have plastic timing covers.
 
Engine pad numbers
T Tonawanda engine plant
1026 October 26 engine build date
FCJ 454/230hp manual trans

look for the block casting number and date on the flywheel flange.

Looks like it clean inside, thats a good sign!

781’s are as good as production open chamber iron heads get.
sounds like someone did their homework when the engine a
was built. Hopefully they put 2.19/1.88 valves in them.
take a pic of the valve springs from the side.
 
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Gonna be super tight getting to the back... Of course everyone knows that. I have a 3pm meeting and will try once that is over. What's too bad is I already bought an ORD tube engine mount bracket and had it powder coated... Gonna need to sell that and get the BB version. Grrrrr
 
Engine pad numbers
T Tonawanda engine plant
1026 October 26 engine build date
FCJ 454/230hp manual trans

look for the block casting number and date on the flywheel flange.

Looks like it clean inside, thats a good sign!

781’s are as good as production open chamber iron heads get.
sounds like someone did their homework when the engine a
was built. Hopefully they put 2.19/1.88 valves in them.
take a pic of the valve springs from the side.
Side view valve springs

20210409_140321.jpg

20210409_140327.jpg
 
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