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5.9 Cummins link thread....

FYI...mating your current round pattern long input 205 to a GM NV4500 is pretty easy. There are two ways you can do it. You can purchase a short input 32 spline for the 205 and swap it in, and it will bolt right up. You will most likely have to notch the tail-housing of the 4500 just a tad to clear the shift rail of the 205, but nothing to terrible.

Or, you can purchase an Advanced Adapters "spacer" if you will, and then it will bolt up just fine (you also have to notch the tail-housing of the 4500 just a smidge this way too...but nothing drastic at all...just a little bit). That's what I did with my 4500 swap. AA also makes a little bracket to bolt off the side of your 4500 so you can keep your shifter for the 205 in the stock location.

Both routes are about the same amount of money, but the input swap route means a tear down of the 205. Since they were the same money, I went AA route cause it was even easier.


As far as GM4500 to Cummins, I think most have nailed it down. I am pretty sure there have been guys who have swapped the input of the 4500 to a dodge input on a GM 4500 (along with the bell housing and clutch already mentioned above) with good success. But I'm not 100% sure as I went the 8.1 swap route instead of 12v


explained so an idjit can understand, tanky! :haha: sometimes I'm semi-quick, but sometimes I resemble a box 0' rocks.... ;)

cool... i would do a shaft due to twin sticking and rebuild... but i'm guessing at this point since i have only the 205, going with the dodge box and it's bigger shaft and ORD's 205 input is going to be the easiest, simplest way?????


i'll have to see what turns up for the dodge box.... and whether i'll be doing the rebuild/5th gear nut or it's already done...
 
explained so an idjit can understand, tanky! :haha: sometimes I'm semi-quick, but sometimes I resemble a box 0' rocks.... ;)

cool... i would do a shaft due to twin sticking and rebuild... but i'm guessing at this point since i have only the 205, going with the dodge box and it's bigger shaft and ORD's 205 input is going to be the easiest, simplest way?????


i'll have to see what turns up for the dodge box.... and whether i'll be doing the rebuild/5th gear nut or it's already done...

Yeah, I would say in your case, getting a dodge box and just worry about adapting the 205 to it would be the easiest. I know some say get the entire dodge drivetrain (motor, trans, and t-case), but all those 2nd gen dodges are driver drop t-cases. So either you have to swap in a ford d60 in the front (kinda dumb IMO when you already have a GM kingpin 60 in the front), or just work on adapting the GM 205 to mate to the dodge 4500 (I would go with the second choice for sure).

I went my route because I was going 8.1 (keeping it all GM). So it made so much more sense to go GM 4500 with the AA adapter to my current 205. If I was going 12V, I would have probably gone the dodge box too
 
awesome... thanks so much guys, things are a lot clearer now on what I'll need..... going over to peruse ORD now.... and now I know what to keep an eye out for on CL and FB....

obviously as parts are acquired i'll be updating Mutt's build thread.. I'm gonna try to be as prepared as possible.. and even than, I'm betting the rig's gonna be down 6 months..... :doah: :haha:
 
$220

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My father-in-law did a 12 valve VE pump with getrag(junk) 5 speed and dodge 208 transfer case and gear vendor into his super duty. It worked for him since he already had a driver drop front end.
I met a kid in Moab once that had double 465s in a blazer and he was running a medium duty 2" input shaft and clutch setup on it I guess. Never researched the NV4500s whether they were used in medium duty stuff but I guess there is plenty of upgrades and support from the truck pulling community for them.
FYI on the length thing. My ford with the cummins has the engine installed so the trans is 4" back from stock in order to keep the clutch fan setup. When looking at where to install I would start at the front and get everything set up off fan/radiator clearance and then work backwards and just do what you need to for drivelines. I have a gear vendor on the back of my tcase so everything worked out for a single piece rear driveshaft and the factory carrier bearing and location are used as a support at the rear of the gear vendor. My ZF5 was regeared by my brother-in-law when he owned it and I guess it has the extra low 1st from a gas engine version which for some reason caused the 3-4 split to be farther apart. It gets shifted 1-2-3-3OD-4-5-5OD. Keeps the cummins right in the sweet spot for rpm when pulling.
 
My father-in-law did a 12 valve VE pump with getrag(junk) 5 speed and dodge 208 transfer case and gear vendor into his super duty. It worked for him since he already had a driver drop front end.
I met a kid in Moab once that had double 465s in a blazer and he was running a medium duty 2" input shaft and clutch setup on it I guess. Never researched the NV4500s whether they were used in medium duty stuff but I guess there is plenty of upgrades and support from the truck pulling community for them.
FYI on the length thing. My ford with the cummins has the engine installed so the trans is 4" back from stock in order to keep the clutch fan setup. When looking at where to install I would start at the front and get everything set up off fan/radiator clearance and then work backwards and just do what you need to for drivelines. I have a gear vendor on the back of my tcase so everything worked out for a single piece rear driveshaft and the factory carrier bearing and location are used as a support at the rear of the gear vendor. My ZF5 was regeared by my brother-in-law when he owned it and I guess it has the extra low 1st from a gas engine version which for some reason caused the 3-4 split to be farther apart. It gets shifted 1-2-3-3OD-4-5-5OD. Keeps the cummins right in the sweet spot for rpm when pulling.



yeah, I'm gonna try to time this out where I'm doing the floor at the same time.... gotta look at the various mounts available... what people are doing about boxing, x-members and such... obviously i'm not afraid of custom work, relieving the firewall, etc.

I was gonna have to have a front shaft made no matter what... need to get my HAD driveline brake figured out in the mix too...
 
As far as the engine crossmember, I know there is a guy on facebook named Ryan Agen (Agen FabWorks) that makes a cummins swap crossmember for a square body (pretty sure it was a square body). Just FYI really
 
That's the male input gear which will not work unless you have the dodge adapter for the adapter. Yes it is redundant.

You need the female input gear. 29 spline.

i thought that looked wrong.... I don't think it's listed than...


As far as the engine crossmember, I know there is a guy on facebook named Ryan Agen (Agen FabWorks) that makes a cummins swap crossmember for a square body (pretty sure it was a square body). Just FYI really


I'm definitely not afraid to make my own stuff, but if i can find some quality pieces, I'm all for it... :pimp:

and thanks, FYI's are great for me at this point.... :doah: I haven't even begun to look at what I'm gonna wanna do as far as performance upgrades on the mill.. I'm sure that'll be a couple months of reading... :doah: :haha:
 
Fyi in my opinion stock chevy mounts and stock first gen motor mounts aren't all that great. But second gen motor mounts rarely go bad. Even in dodges.
I used the Rob Bonney crossmember kit to utilize second gen style mounts.
 
Fyi in my opinion stock chevy mounts and stock first gen motor mounts aren't all that great. But second gen motor mounts rarely go bad. Even in dodges.
I used the Rob Bonney crossmember kit to utilize second gen style mounts.

wonder if it would be worthwhile to just get his boxing kit too.. this all makes me think i need to have the full drivetrain ready to go in, including whatever hydro stuff i need, initial exhaust components, etc BEFORE i even take the rig apart... gonna take long enough to gut the thing and do all mockup, fab, install, etc... figure it'll be about 3 months from the point it's bolted in till i get the "running" details in, exhaust, fuel, etc... and that's not including the floor work...
 
wait, here it is.... threw me off, doesn't say dodge in the second description... wow, $475.. that hurts.... still seems like the way to go tho....


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FU4092 Ford/Dodge Female 29 spline NP205 input gear, useful for adapting married Ford NP205 to NV4500/5600 and G56.

Includes required spacer. This is not an OE replacement for anything, these are used to adapt NP205's to transmissions that never had them.


Female 29 spline New $475
 
Do you need vacuum for anything? If not I always wanted to go the medium duty route and do an air compressor and a "real" power steering pump. Not sure how well they would clear the motor mount setup though and the frame on driver side. This one's a Tu-Flo 550 which is a 2 cyl big guy. They do make a 1 cyl version but I have never seen one on anything. I did just see that they have some pretty slick looking a/c comp air comp setups for the cummins. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/1673042-cummins-swap-parts-thread.html too bad the pics are all gone. This guy has a shit ton of useful cummins part numbers and info.
 
wow, that's psycho...

nah, no vac... i run a brand new hydro setup already.... I want to run A/C, ps, alt AND my york... but initially, whatever it takes to get the stocker working...

this is gonna be a ton of coin... i see mucho OT coming this yr.....
 
oh, and yes, i definitely want to investigate good ps upgrades..... the rig is finicky enough with a new stocker in it now, god forbid i threw hydro assist at it too... i would love a killer pump with a remote ressy... I have a nice PSC one sitting around already for it....



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my first inclination would be to look at the nice "pump only" stuff from PSC.. maybe like this... but I'm defitely open to ideas....

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/94-02...power-steering-pump-with-remote-feed-can.html
 
man, the 4BT forum sucks.. i can't even get a new thread started after registering.. it won't let me enter a title.. hyper links are all blinky and whatnot, lol..... maybe on the more advanced editor...
 

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