Pretty sure the dodges use 5/8" bolts with the "replacement" bushings. That's not to say the appropriate bushing with a 9/16" ID sleeve can't be had.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
52s vs custom front leaves
- Thread starter 72k5mike
- Start date
Pretty sure the dodges use 5/8" bolts with the "replacement" bushings. That's not to say the appropriate bushing with a 9/16" ID sleeve can't be had.
Like Kert said, 73-9?. I got mine from the rear of a mid 80's 1/2 ton 4x4.
No, but I have a stupid amount of offset on my wheels. I've got a bunch of pics in my build thread. If you want any specific pics just post up and I'll add them on. CLICKY
Where I'm kind of confused is on ride quality vs. body roll and axle wrap. Everyone complains about the body roll with 52's and some speak of axle wrap. Other than durability, how does the custom pack avoid the pitfalls of the 52's while still riding nice?
Here's where I'm coming from - The back of my K5 is nice and soft going over bumps with stock 52's, while the front is much harsher on the same bumps with EZ-rides. It's almost like it wants to jump up. I would try to blame the cheap shocks, but I have the same shock in all 4 positions - it can't just be high compression damping. So I'm convinced that a spring about as soft as 52's is needed for good ride quality, but with EZ-rides and no sway bar I already have an appreciable amount of body roll.
How is this dilemna solved? Are the Bilsteins the key to controlling body roll - increased damping at low piston speeds?
Here's where I'm coming from - The back of my K5 is nice and soft going over bumps with stock 52's, while the front is much harsher on the same bumps with EZ-rides. It's almost like it wants to jump up. I would try to blame the cheap shocks, but I have the same shock in all 4 positions - it can't just be high compression damping. So I'm convinced that a spring about as soft as 52's is needed for good ride quality, but with EZ-rides and no sway bar I already have an appreciable amount of body roll.
How is this dilemna solved? Are the Bilsteins the key to controlling body roll - increased damping at low piston speeds?
Having the same shock at all 4 corners isn't helping. In the tune-able shock world you run very different setups front and rear. So what your feeling can be a shock issue.
Keep in mind that I can take the race car and make it ride like a dump truck, or a Cadillac just with shock valving. There is more to shocks that you can imagine but at the same time the average Joe is going to be pretty happy with a Rancho 9000 type shock that has some adjustment in it.
You are beginning to understand the reason spring rate, shocks and anti sway bars all go hand in hand. For the average Joe a lift spring, dump the sway bar and put on some Rancho 9000's and you have a way cool suspension.
Once you start tuning and trying to get good ride and handling at the same time you need to start working and testing.
In general you can:
Use stiff springs to counter body roll
This provides a harsh ride pretty much at all times but there is limited body roll. Shocks will play a roll in ride but on a limited basis.
Use stiff shock valving to slow down the rate with which the body will roll while using a reduced rate spring pack.
Meaning you can't stop body roll with shocks, all you can do is make the valving stiff enough to where the fluid moving through the piston provides enough resistance to make the body roll happen slower. The body will ultimately roll the same amount but it can take many seconds for this to happen. HOWEVER, the ride quality will suffer and be very much like the above over sprung vehicle or worse.
Run a correct spring rate, Well valved and tuned shocks no anti sway bar.
You will have suitable ride for your preferences. Now the big question is, is the body roll acceptable to YOU. I will use Wade/KTMoutfront as my example. You can see videos of his blazer having what I deem as excessive body roll, however having talked with guys that have ridden with him they feel it wasn't terrible bad and in conversations with Wade he isn't in a hell fire hurry to install anti-swaybars. He knows they will help but since it hasn't happened he obviously feels it's okay.
Run the same setup as above but add in a correctly setup anti-swaybar.
Now all the anti swaybar does is provides added spring rate by twisting the bar. Body roll is resisted by the added spring rate only, this spring rate only effects things when there is a twisting force applied to the bar so it really is very un-noticeable. When correctly setup you will have very little to no loss in articulation, good ride quality both in corners and straight roads, and a anti-swaybar that is going to live a long and happy life.
It really comes down to what is acceptable to you? I know guys that don't like soft springs because of body roll, I also know guys that use the same spring pack and are totally happy with it and think the body roll is not bad and they can just deal with it.
Chris and Stephen at ORD are the only people I can think of off the top of my head that might have. This years UA truck and Chris' blazer?
dirtroadoutlaw
1/2 ton status
The 5100 series bilsteins are available with various ranges over valving too. You kinda have to shop them carefully. I humbly suggest a swaybar with QC'S if body roll is of concern.
Thank you Brandon for your replies and input. So one of my buddies has had his K5 in ORD's shop and has Walker Evans Racing shocks on it that he says were a lot of money but he is very pleased with them. Do you think these are overkill for most of us?
Short answer is yes. However I think that it's a long road to get there.
How much do you really use your vehicle offroad? Are you using up auto parts store shocks on a regular basis. Do you have $250 per corner to spend in hard cash then another hundred or so for some shims and tuning time?
Do you need a King 2.5" shock or just a low end re build-able shock?
If it were me building a leaf spring vehicle today with what I know and the limited free money that I have I would put on a set of decent springs and shocks and go play. That might be ORD customs and a cheap over the counter shock or maybe if I found a good deal on some used race takeoffs I would use a good shock on a cheap spring. This vehicle would be my family vehicle so I would always have the go fast covered with the race car. Realizing the limitations of the vehicle are a big deal.
If I could spend all the money that my mind wants to on a play toy it wouldn't have leaf springs!
I know this really doesn't answer your question but you have to think about what you need out of your vehicle. Some guys want all the parts, spend years getting them and wheel very little. Some guys just want to wheel and don't care about having all the best parts as long as they have something that gets them where they want to be. Keep in mind that Rome wasn't built in a day so you can acquire parts over the course of years and things like good re buildable shocks really never wear out, they just need some seals and wear parts thrown in them sometimes.
Thanks! That helps alot.
COCHEV
1/2 ton status
Good info in this thread.
What would be awesome (and its been mentioned here more than once) would to be able to run both crossover steering and a antisway bar. I would like to do away with bump steer, have some softer springs, but not have it list like a boat in rough waters...
Maybe the ORD guys can find an answer to that one...
Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL
What would be awesome (and its been mentioned here more than once) would to be able to run both crossover steering and a antisway bar. I would like to do away with bump steer, have some softer springs, but not have it list like a boat in rough waters...
Maybe the ORD guys can find an answer to that one...
Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL
Kind of already been done, it was on the suburban with coils but still same basic packaging. Gotta pay to play and honestly the majority of old chevy truck owners are old chevy truck owners cause their cheap.
These are precisely the reasons we have a coilover kit. Axle path control, precise steering, premium damping, soft ride, body roll control options. Pretty tough to hit all the bases with leaves. They're good, just can't do it all that well.
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2004
- Posts
- 2,647
- Reaction score
- 1,043
FRIZZLEFRY
1/2 ton status
How much arch do factory legnth 4" ORD front leaf packs have? How much of that 11"-12" vertical travel is up?
Im debating on going spring under on the front of a K10 project Im working on.But if I can get similar results with a proven bolt in setup I would rather go that route
Thanks,
Chris
4402 chase monkey
Im debating on going spring under on the front of a K10 project Im working on.But if I can get similar results with a proven bolt in setup I would rather go that route
Thanks,
Chris
4402 chase monkey
I am trying this out just for the benefit of everyone here.
The rear is stock 52s with shackle flip. The front is 4" EZ-rides and Ford shock towers. Last night the wasted 12" Gabriel shocks came off and the Bilstein 5150s went on all 4 corners. Either all of the roads around here got fixed yesterday, or the ride is much better than it's ever been in this truck. I don't know how to explain it exactly, but it basically responds how it should - soaking up the bumps instead of hopping, and recovering quickly from everything. I will have to report back when I get more than a few miles of driving in.
Currently Alcan is building my ORD custom leaves, so that will be the 2nd phase to report on.
The rear is stock 52s with shackle flip. The front is 4" EZ-rides and Ford shock towers. Last night the wasted 12" Gabriel shocks came off and the Bilstein 5150s went on all 4 corners. Either all of the roads around here got fixed yesterday, or the ride is much better than it's ever been in this truck. I don't know how to explain it exactly, but it basically responds how it should - soaking up the bumps instead of hopping, and recovering quickly from everything. I will have to report back when I get more than a few miles of driving in.
Currently Alcan is building my ORD custom leaves, so that will be the 2nd phase to report on.
Jester1
1/2 ton status
You have my attention. Waiting to see how the springs come out for ya. How much did they run you BTW.
I don't have the final price yet. In post #26 Stehpen says a front pair is usually about $575.
I would like to thank Bilstein for designing their 5150 series specifically around the color scheme of my truck.
I would like to thank Bilstein for designing their 5150 series specifically around the color scheme of my truck.
Last edited:
Since all of the ORD springs are custom, there's not going to be a simple answer. The arch and the spring rate will depend on the weight and the intended use they are designed for. As for up travel, shouldn't it be the same for any spring that isn't overly stiff? It will travel up until hitting the bumpstop, bottoming the shock or tire contact. A 4" spring on a full-size won't have a lot of arch to it at ride height.
I'm very impressed with the Bilstein shocks. It's almost like they can read my mind and always do what I want them to do. What surprises me the most is the body roll control. I always considered shocks dampers that only act on dynamic loads, but somehow the Bilstein valves sense it and close up or something. It honestly feels like the sway bar is on. Maybe instead of re-designing the disconnects like I had planned, I will just leave the swaybar off. But I will wait till some time with the ORD springs.
