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6.0L swap... What should I look for?

this is for supersize75k5 or anyone else trying to hook up a tach to the lsx engines...

First off, you need to set the tach to 4 cylinder mode. even though the lsx engines are v8s, the rpm out signal is a 4cyl signal. Some tachs have a switch to set it to 4cyl., others you usually have to cut both "loops" of wire on the tach to change it from 8cyl.to 4cyl.

If you are running a 98-00 PCM you can probably just hook up the tach signal wire from the pcm to the tach and it should work fine.

If you are running an 01 newer setup you probably have to do this little trick to get the tach to function properly.

tach_circuit_fix.jpg


:deal: :pimp1:
 
One more thing...
Take care of your oil and water temperature sending units before you even think about dropping the engine in the vehicle..

As for the oil pressure and water temperature sensors for your gauges...
For the coolant temperature sensor i just removed the 12mm plug on the passanger side head, drilled and tapped the head to a 1/4 npt i believe. Put lots of grease on the drillbit and tap to collect any metal shavings.
For the oil pressure gauge, whether its mechanical or electric you can drill and tap the block off plate right above the oil filter for the typical 1/8"npt.... or you can run an adapter like i posted to the port on the top rear of the engine block.

Depending on what size sending unit you need to run,
You could order a sending unit adapter like these for electric gauges (1/8"npt sending units)

-Autometer# 1822277 $9.99 12mm-1.5 Male to 1/8" Female Water temperature
-Autometer# 1822268 $10.99 16mm-1.5 Male to 1/8" Female Oil pressure



or

for mechanical gauges that are bigger like 1/4 or 3/8, street and performance makes an aluminum sending unit adapter.. for both12mm and 16mm to 1/8-1/4-3/8" i believe.
street and performance websitte-> http://www.hotrodlane.cc/


Another trick i found on ls1 tech is to drill out and tap the top of the water pump... or the block heater plug. The block heater plug is in the block just below the stock temp sensor.
water_temp_adaptor.jpg
 
hmm I had tapped my water pump for a temp gage or fan switch and had forgot about it:doah:


I'll have to see if it will fit a sendor for the gage. Thanks for the tips and the yappin on the phone today too Ryan:thumb:

P4030360.jpg
 
i run an lq4 6.0L in my flatbed tow rig. with a relatively stock tune, i put 89 octane in it and it tows fine no pinging.

when i ran an lq4 in my k5 it put down 265rwhp @4800rpm, & 313rwtq @ 4100rpm on a roller dyno..
and that was through a sm465 - np205 - 14ff - 4.56's - 37"mtrs then to the roller dyno.


What is involved in mating a 5.3/6.0 to the 465?
 
i run an lq4 6.0L in my flatbed tow rig. with a relatively stock tune, i put 89 octane in it and it tows fine no pinging.

when i ran an lq4 in my k5 it put down 265rwhp @4800rpm, & 313rwtq @ 4100rpm on a roller dyno..
and that was through a sm465 - np205 - 14ff - 4.56's - 37"mtrs then to the roller dyno.
buzzed it to 6200 and the tires to 140mph.:eek1: (everyone in the shop was running out/ducking for cover) :haha:
-assuming 30% drivetrain loss thats something like 375hp/440tq at the flywheel. not bad for a junkyard low compression 6.0l with long tube headers.. since they're factory rated at 325/380.

i run a high output escalade lq9 in my k5.
its an 02 longblock with an 04 isuzu npr wiring harness, running an 04 gto program. :crazy:
i ordered a custom grind cam from thunder racing 22x/23x @ .050 with .609/.604" lift. along with patroit gold dual valvesprings, TI retainers/keepers, and hardened pushrods.
i had it speed density tuned by rick @ synergy motorsports, awsome lsx tuner.
He worked his magic with a wideband 02 sensor and hp tuners while i drove around newark for a couple hours.. :crazy:
no new dyno numbers, however the butt dyno says a gain of 50 rwhp/tq going from the lq4 to an lq9 with a cam & full tune.

:eek1:

Was the lq4 modded besides the headers?

Got any numbers on a stockish lq9?
 
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