CK5
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6.5 TD/NV4500 conversion into 73-87 full size?

Things are going a little slower than I would like, but the motor is sitting between the frame rails, and I notched the shifter hole for the nv4500 this afternoon. Slow but steady progress. I can see what everyone says about routing the exhaust around the framerail. I'm considering cutting the floorboards back about 4 inches in front of the passenger to make room for the exhaust.
 
Done!

Finally finished after about 2 weeks of late night thrashing. Still have a few things to work on, like the 4wd shifter, which needs to move over a few inches now, etc. Runs great! I'm going on a 10 day camping trip with her, so I'll have a better opinion on the conversion next week.
 
So glad this tread popped up to the top as I was just looking at buying relatively low mileage 1993 turbo 6.5L off Craigslist for my ’89 V2500 Suburban that has an original SM465. A clean OEM appearing install and perfectly working accessories (especially heat and A/C) are a must for me so if the 6.5L turbo unit is a big interference issue at the A/C box then I will stick to my plans with another Vortec 8.1L gas swap under my belt. I have a couple 8.1L’s at my disposal and a NV4500 but by the time I fix them and buy a harness, ECM tune, and interface parts I will be into them at least $1,500-$2,000. In my case, the 8.1L and NV4500 might be better and cheaper than going with the CL turbo 6.5L deal. Darn, I really wanted to build a high torque-high MPG diesel Sub until I read this. :mad: Gas vs. diesel wins everytime in favor of big gas it seems.
 
Yeah, a big block with an NV4500 would be a nice combo, and would have a lot more HP. I just checked a few dyno charts, and they both have about the same torque and HP up to around 2500 rpm, but then the 8.1 walks away with over a 100 hp more at 4000 rpm or so, stock 2003 8.1 vs 6.5 at 13 psi. 250 HP is plenty for towing my trailer through the mountains around here, so I'm pretty happy with what I've got now. I can tell you the stock 350 TBI with 200 hp was not quite enough, I'm not a fan of doing 30 mph up a steep hill dragging a 5000 lb trailer. I'm hoping to get close to 20 mpg (15 towing) at 60 or so with 3.73 gears and OD, the k3500 it came out of got around 14 mpg (towing or not, didn't seem to matter much) with 4.56 gears and OD for the last year I drove it, vs around 10 (under 7 towing!) in the Blazer with 4.88 gears and no OD. How about you? :-)

As for the A/C, are you kidding? :-) I'm just relocating the A/C under the dash, not getting rid of it! Converting to the non AC heater on the firewall was actually pretty easy using a section from a donor truck at the junkyard, I just measured about an inch larger all the way around where the A/C unit was on my truck, and cut it out of the donor truck. The same truck provided the under dash A/C unit. The condenser is about half the size of the one in a Suburban, but it should do fine in a Blazer. One slight setback, my N4500 shattered the front input shaft bearing, so I'm waiting for the new one to arrive from the midwest next week. Ouch.
 
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With the 6.5 block and heads what driver side exhaust manifold did you use? can you get buy using the 6.5 manifold or do you need to use the one from the 6.2?
 
I used a 6.2 manifold on the driver side that points down from the third leg from the front, not the 4th leg. This seemed to give a little more room. I think the 6.5 manifold would have worked, but using the 6.2 version places the exhaust further away from the clutch linkage. I also used the 6.2 oil filter adapter, which is really just double threaded piece of short pipe, since the 6.5 sideways adapter hit the 6.2 manifold.
 
something i hadn't thought about yet was the oil filter. I think i am going to try to use both 6.5 manifolds as i'm running a 4L80. Where did you put the down pipe and the exhaust.
 
The crossover pipe runs under the trans bell to the turbo. The exhaust guys left it a little tight, so I have to pull the crossover to pull the transmission. From the turbo dump straight back (Very tight!) with a couple of slight "S" curves under the passenger side to the back of the transfer case, then cut across over the back of the transfer case to the driver side, through the biggest, quietest round diesel muffler I could fit, and out the stock exhaust path with a side exit behind the driver rear wheel.
 
Driving impressions: Week 1

It's a torque monster. :woot: Not fast revving, but it feels about as fast as the old 350 ever did while driving. You have to be careful shifting, short shift it everywhere or the truck likes to bounce around, and take your time moving from gate to gate. Almost enough torque to take off smoothly in 3rd with the 4.88 gears, but not quite. I seem to be shifting into 5th by 30 mph around town, and it pulls most hills in 5th from 35 mph up. Startups are easy, easier than the 350 was with the tired old TBI on it. I haven't kept really good tabs on mileage for this first tank, but I'm pretty sure it's between 10-12 with about 200 miles towing 5000 lbs on fairly flat ground (pulled most hills in 5th with the trailer!), and 100 miles commuting to work in city traffic. Cruising twisty gravel roads at 20 mph is perfect, just leave it in 4th and idle around. Next stop, 3.73 gears, once I figure out how to transplant the Detroit locker into my spare axle.
 
Do you have to let this thing warm up every time before driving? I'm just thinking through the logistics of having the wife run around town in a 6.5TD.
 
The engine won't really warm up at idle, and I've been told by several folks that you want to avoid idling a cold diesel engine. Not that you're supposed to hammer down right away either, but... you get the idea.
 
Exactly. Start it up, get oil pressure, wait 30 seconds, then drive it easy for a mile or two. Then let er buck.

Low idle in the winter time is absolutely the worst thing you can do to a diesel engine. You wet stack the cylinders and over time its as good as ****ed. May as well be dusted, cause thats how much compression you'll have.
 
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