64 Vette….Rebuild 2.0

[76zimmer]

After a thorough warmup, the test drive showed no visible signs of blue smoke until after the 2-3 shift. No smoke when cold after sitting for a couple days, none while warming up on the drive, none until the WOT run.
1-2 shift at 6500, 2-3 shift at 6700, about 1 second later here come the blue smoke, from a lite haze to not being able to see through the smoke in about 2 seconds. Let off the throttle, and it goes away within a second or so.
oil pressure never dropped below 50# while under acceleration up to about 95-100mph, when I let off, but still turning 5000+rpm and holding good oil pressure.
will be picking up this for future troubleshooting….

 

[folkenheath]

Was that with or without the PCV valve hooked up?

I have the same leakdown tester. Works well, just adjust the regulator for 100 psi on the inlet and the math is super easy then, as in, no math, ha ha. You can also pressurize the cylinder and listen where the air seapage is coming from to determine cause. Although with the valves closed the guides are out of the equation on a leakdown.

If it was the rings it would most likely smoke worse when you let off, because it has less air, and the high vacuum pulls more oil into the combustion chamber passed the rings. It seems like you are smoking at high RPM, either because of higher crankcase pressure that cant vent, or a lot more oil up near the valve guides, among other things. But it is possible the rings aren't stable at higher RPM I suppose, but I think less likely.

 

[76zimmer]

PCV still run to base of carb secondaries. Vacuum secondary 750. Vacuum hose from block to carb is pretty clean, not oily.

 

[Fastereddie]

I’m going to vote (hope) valve guide seals.

 

[folkenheath]

Even so, no matter what it is in the engine a 427 would fix it.

 

[82355]

Or a 520.

You can call it a 427.

Martin

 

[folkenheath]

I have no problem with labeling an engine smaller than it actually is. The other way around, then I am reminded of "unpimp Z auto" ....you get an F from Flame, and now you are lame...

 

[82355]

Seems pretty self explanatory.

Martin

 

[76zimmer]

The 355 identifies as a 331!
block casting 3892657

 

[76zimmer]

I need a new tim8ng light, mine is 40+ yrs old, still works good, not sure on the accuracy though. Thinking about a dial back type, but don’t know squat about them?

 

[tRustyK5]

Advance it till it detonates, then back it off a "C" hair...

 

[ZooMad75]

I need a new tim8ng light, mine is 40+ yrs old, still works good, not sure on the accuracy though. Thinking about a dial back type, but don’t know squat about them?

I love my dial back light. I like that moving the dial to the target number you move the dizzy to the point where the line on the balancer lines up with the zero mark on the timing tab. It allows you to set the timing to a larger number than what the timing tab may have on it accurately.

 

[imiceman44]

I love my dial back light. I like that moving the dial to the target number you move the dizzy to the point where the line on the balancer lines up with the zero mark on the timing tab. It allows you to set the timing to a larger number than what the timing tab may have on it accurately.

I love mine too.
I also have one of the last made in the USA, I bought it in 1998, built really nice.

 

[ZooMad75]

I love mine too.
I also have one of the last made in the USA, I bought it in 1998, built really nice.

Mine is a Craftsman my Dad bought me as part of the set of tools I needed for my auto classes in college. Had it since '92.

 

[folkenheath]

Get a digital dial back, that way you don't have the error in the dial with the stickers. Also, it will give you the RPM in the display which helps with measuring timing curves etc without having someone in the vehicle to watch the tach. And you don't need timing tape or a fancy balancer, or to have to measure and mark every balancer you want to measure. (I have that calc in my app in a pinch).

Mine is an OTC stinger model, works great, even with MSD box. But they don't make it anymore. It looks strikingly like this model though...

Equus 5568 INNOVA Pro Digital Timing Light DIS | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Equus 5568 INNOVA Pro Digital Timing Light DIS at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

It also has a metal pickup like mine. Don't get a plastic pickup, as hard as you try you will eventually melt it.

They also sell a pro model that does dwell and V, 2 strokes, etc.

I have the one that just has digital advance and digital RPM display like shown. You can turn off the strobe if you don't need it temporarily, like if you are using it as a tach to set the idle after you set the timing for example.

 

[76zimmer]

Cant hear detonation with open headers!
Mine is a Craftsman as well, got it for Christmas in 78.


I put the inductive pickup closer to the distributor to avoid melting it, as my wires run down the back of the heads, and under the headers.
My balancer is degreed out to 50*

 

[76zimmer]

Shop talk has it that a 4” stroke will pull the piston skirt out of the bottom of the cylinder bore.
Not good for the piston skirts longevity. Piston manufacturer recommendation is for the skirt on a 3 ring piston to still be in the bore by .250 at BDC. Some engine builders have used a 2 ring piston (one compression and an oil control set) to shorten the skirt. Either way piston rocking at BDC is a concern over 3.875 stroke.

 

[folkenheath]

I wouldn't build a 4" stroke SBC without an aftermarket block, the correct high clearance rods, and a small base circle cam.

But to be honest, you can get the blocks machined and ready to go with todays tolerances, which takes some of the cost out of buying a block and then paying to get it machined manually. So its not as bad as it first seems, and I think is almost necessary for a 427 SBC.

Once you have the aftermarket block, they are designed for a 4" stroke. Like this one...

Dart SHP Cast Iron Block, Chev SB, 350 Main, 4.125" Bore - Competition Products

Dart, SHP Chev SB Iron Block, 350 Main, 4.125 Bore These new blocks give you all the features you need to build powerful and durable engines at affordable prices. Cast from high nickel iron for superior strength, and features siamese cylinders with 4.000 standard bore sizes and can safely be...

www.competitionproducts.com

Here it is fully prepped and ready to assemble...

Race Prep Dart SHP Block SBC 400 4.125 Bore 350 Mains 2pc

SB Chevy 400 415 427 434, Race Prep, Dart SHP Block, Align-Honed, Bell Housing Squared, Parallel Square Decked, Honed with Torque Plates, Lifter Bore Honed, Cam Bearings and Freeze Plugs installed, Block Cleaned and Ready For Assembly

www.cnc-motorsports.com

I may be able to get it to you cheaper directly through Dart, they offer a fully prepped ready to assemble option themselves.

 

[max 02]

Happy Birthday Dave!

 

[76zimmer]

I wouldn't build a 4" stroke SBC without an aftermarket block, the correct high clearance rods, and a small base circle cam.

But to be honest, you can get the blocks machined and ready to go with todays tolerances, which takes some of the cost out of buying a block and then paying to get it machined manually. So its not as bad as it first seems, and I think is almost necessary for a 427 SBC.

Once you have the aftermarket block, they are designed for a 4" stroke. Like this one...

Dart SHP Cast Iron Block, Chev SB, 350 Main, 4.125" Bore - Competition Products

Dart, SHP Chev SB Iron Block, 350 Main, 4.125 Bore These new blocks give you all the features you need to build powerful and durable engines at affordable prices. Cast from high nickel iron for superior strength, and features siamese cylinders with 4.000 standard bore sizes and can safely be...

www.competitionproducts.com

Here it is fully prepped and ready to assemble...

Race Prep Dart SHP Block SBC 400 4.125 Bore 350 Mains 2pc

SB Chevy 400 415 427 434, Race Prep, Dart SHP Block, Align-Honed, Bell Housing Squared, Parallel Square Decked, Honed with Torque Plates, Lifter Bore Honed, Cam Bearings and Freeze Plugs installed, Block Cleaned and Ready For Assembly

www.cnc-motorsports.com

I may be able to get it to you cheaper directly through Dart, they offer a fully prepped ready to assemble option themselves.

Yes, will most certainly be going with an aftermarket block, hes still checking into some combinations of parts.

Happy Birthday Dave!

Thanks Dean, still rackin em up!