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64 Vette….Rebuild 2.0

I can't even get the Dutchman IRS housing, no salesman there. Just strength if you need it down the road. ;)

I just like everything to work together and right now everything works together but that little intake. That intake is the bottleneck.

The Super Victor is only an inch taller and it might fit, it's not as good as the Super Victor II that's two inches taller, but closer to the SV2 than the Jr. If neither fit, then hog out the Vic Jr. I don't expect you to change the hood Zim, the car is awesome as is, just the best intake the fits.

Is the old engine still in the car? Can you test hood clearance before you pull it?
 
I think he said he already has a BBC hood on it. Is that different than a stinger? A different hood and paint to match would cost too much most likely.

Moroso sells a curved drop base for the air cleaner that can help a lot, I angled mine for more clearance in the front since the race intakes don't have the 3 or 4 degree angle built in.

That Vic Jr is 4.58" tall, shorter than the RPM air gap you have on the old engine at 4.72" tall, the SV is 5.50", and the SV2 is 6.56" So you would need ~3/4" for the SV and 1.84" for the SV2.
 
Do they sell a stinger hood that is an inch taller?

Martin
I’m not sure Marty. This hood was just over $700 from Ecklers in 98. And the Torch Red was almost $800/gallon then as well. I think you see where that’s going…

I think he said he already has a BBC hood on it. Is that different than a stinger? A different hood and paint to match would cost too much most likely.

Moroso sells a curved drop base for the air cleaner that can help a lot, I angled mine for more clearance in the front since the race intakes don't have the 3 or 4 degree angle built in.

That Vic Jr is 4.58" tall, shorter than the RPM air gap you have on the old engine at 4.72" tall, the SV is 5.50", and the SV2 is 6.56" So you would need ~3/4" for the SV and 1.84" for the SV2.
The hood on the car is what GM referred to as a stinger style. Only used on the 67 427 cars. 68 it changed along w the whole body.
I’ll be checking some clearances when I get back home from AR. next weekend.
Those reference dimensions will come in handy!
 
I love this build, but my biggest question I have which I haven't seen addressed yet is the rear end/axles/tire size etc. Is what you have going to live? Is it going to hook?
It’s not gonna hook….
 
Depends on how soft I can make it at launch.
With the Terminator X programmable timing map, maybe I can retard it enough to get it moving then bring in more timing.
Better, bigger tires should help too.
 
With the terminator you can also save a couple files on the SD card.
One set up fully for the track, and one for fun driving on the street. Takes literally about 20 seconds to change tunes.
 
Good to know! My electronics challenged brain will be looking for help!
 
Decided to have the T400 gone through and make sure it’s able to handle the new “425” hp engine, and to change the rear Speedo driven gear as the car shows about 10-15mph fast. So after a thorough inspection he replaced the pump gearset, the intermediate steels and frictions, and a few other parts. Otherwise it looks real good inside.
I took the time to give it a quality rattle can paint job too!

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Decided to have the T400 gone through and make sure it’s able to handle the new “425” hp engine, and to change the rear Speedo driven gear as the car shows about 10-15mph fast. So after a thorough inspection he replaced the pump gearset, the intermediate steels and frictions, and a few other parts. Otherwise it looks real good inside.
I took the time to give it a quality rattle can paint job too!

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Good price to have that gone through!
 
Been making a list and checking things twice….

*Like connecting rod to camshaft clearance. Minimum of .050 desired. I used a big zip tie which measures .062 thick, and put it in place between each connecting rod and where it comes closest to the camshaft. This is a small base circle cam, and it was possible to pull the ziptie between the two surfaces indicating a min. of .062.
*And connecting rod to pan rail clearance. Minimum of .050 desired. Again the ziptie had plenty of room.
*Counterweights to pan rail and bottom of cylinders. A visiual at the cylinder bottoms showed plenty of gap, and the ziptie used at the panrail and well into the block as it turned had plenty of slack as well.
*Connecting rod side play. .014-.020 desired, all measured .018 w a feeler gauge.
*Crankshaft end play. .004-.008 desired. Measured .0045 w a dial indicator.
*Check sizing of the keyway on the crank and dampner for correct size. Once it was lined up, I nudged it on a with a few fist bumps. Looks good.

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Depends on how soft I can make it at launch.
With the Terminator X programmable timing map, maybe I can retard it enough to get it moving then bring in more timing.
Better, bigger tires should help too.
With the right tires it would hook just fine without making it a weak launch. Making a soft launch will kill your 60 ft and your ET.

Been making a list and checking things twice….

*Like connecting rod to camshaft clearance. Minimum of .050 desired. I used a big zip tie which measures .062 thick, and put it in place between each connecting rod and where it comes closest to the camshaft. This is a small base circle cam, and it was possible to pull the ziptie between the two surfaces indicating a min. of .062.

Did you get any sense of if there was much extra clearance on the cam? Could you have gotten away without a small base circle? I think no, but just curious.
 
With the right tires it would hook just fine without making it a weak launch. Making a soft launch will kill your 60 ft and your ET.
But also help the diff live!
Did you get any sense of if there was much extra clearance on the cam? Could you have gotten away without a small base circle? I think no, but just curious.
I think there was more than the .062 of the ziptie, but not sure of much more.
Maybe I’ll try to get my probe camera in there to see.
 

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