CK5
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64 Vette….Rebuild 2.0
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
5100 8” biscuit works pretty well
Foot brake, 3800 chip in the 2 step, low gear brake switch activated. Dump the pedal, flash the converter
Rear engine pic For reference…
When I put the engine and trans together, I overlooked the flywheel, so they had to come apart for that install.
Picking away at the little things to make it run, flywheel, starter, and reinstalled the fuel tank line to the frame hardline. I still need to get the valve train installed on the heads yet.
When I put the engine and trans together, I overlooked the flywheel, so they had to come apart for that install.
Picking away at the little things to make it run, flywheel, starter, and reinstalled the fuel tank line to the frame hardline. I still need to get the valve train installed on the heads yet.
Flywheel, going to a man pedal?
No love for the single seal?
This was an assembled shortblock from Dart, only offered in a 2 piece for what I wanted in parts.
If I was building from a bare block up, I would probably use the 1 piece rear seal.
If I was building from a bare block up, I would probably use the 1 piece rear seal.
Flywheel…(ok flex plate) installed. ARP’s torqued to 85 w ARP lube. No locktite, no star washers.
Trans back in place w/o torque convertor.
Valve train installed. Dart Guide plates, 7/16 ARP rocker studs. Thread sealer @ the 8 intake ports, ARP lube @ blind hole locations. See pics for protrusion of stud into port. Maybe a thread, pics aren’t very good but its enough to feel a bump in the port roof is all.
Trans back in place w/o torque convertor.
Valve train installed. Dart Guide plates, 7/16 ARP rocker studs. Thread sealer @ the 8 intake ports, ARP lube @ blind hole locations. See pics for protrusion of stud into port. Maybe a thread, pics aren’t very good but its enough to feel a bump in the port roof is all.
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Comp rockers, and Elgin 7.450L, .110 wall, 210* radius head pushrods.
Lifters and rocker arms were soaked before install, pushrod tips, valve stems and guide plates got a liberal coating of gooey assembly lube. Pushrods filled w oil.
These Johnson lifters had to be installed before the heads as they are .300 taller and a tie bar setup. This block is cast for either GM type roller lifters or flat tappet lifters. When using aftermarket tiebar lifters they need to be taller due to the casting of the lifter bores. The hydraulic roller lifters are short travel for seeing 7000 rpm, it could happen!
Setting up the guideplates involved just snugging each stud, then installing the pushrod and rocker arm, centering each rocker tip on the valve, then removing the rocker arm and torquing the ARP studs to 45# w ARP lube. Then reinstall the rocker arm w the lock nuts.
I still need to lash all the valves, but leaning over the tire working on the heads had my back saying enough!
Lifters and rocker arms were soaked before install, pushrod tips, valve stems and guide plates got a liberal coating of gooey assembly lube. Pushrods filled w oil.
These Johnson lifters had to be installed before the heads as they are .300 taller and a tie bar setup. This block is cast for either GM type roller lifters or flat tappet lifters. When using aftermarket tiebar lifters they need to be taller due to the casting of the lifter bores. The hydraulic roller lifters are short travel for seeing 7000 rpm, it could happen!
Setting up the guideplates involved just snugging each stud, then installing the pushrod and rocker arm, centering each rocker tip on the valve, then removing the rocker arm and torquing the ARP studs to 45# w ARP lube. Then reinstall the rocker arm w the lock nuts.
I still need to lash all the valves, but leaning over the tire working on the heads had my back saying enough!
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I like to lash hydraulics when the intake is still off if possible, it's easier to turn the pushrod with the free hand so you feel exactly zero lash, and go from there, looking great Dave!
Priming the oil system…I use an old distributor with the pole piece cut down to fit in a drill.
Oh and don’t forget that oil port on the back of the block, I thought it was going to hit the ceiling. Good thing my battery powered drill had a weak battery in it!
Just a small mess, at least it was clean oil!
A fresh battery and a pressure gauge in the port shows 70# by a drill!
I primed until all the rockers showed oil running doen on the springs, then turned it 720*, 180 at a time under full pressure.
No.1 is now ready to fire @ 12*BTDC.
Oh and don’t forget that oil port on the back of the block, I thought it was going to hit the ceiling. Good thing my battery powered drill had a weak battery in it!
Just a small mess, at least it was clean oil!
A fresh battery and a pressure gauge in the port shows 70# by a drill!
I primed until all the rockers showed oil running doen on the springs, then turned it 720*, 180 at a time under full pressure.
No.1 is now ready to fire @ 12*BTDC.
Bummer on the mess, oil pressure is good!
Installed the intake and a few other things today. Bought some stainless bolts/washers, because chromate plated would just clash on top of the engine.
Im sure everyone is familiar w the potential bolt/pushrod interference on 2 of the center bolts. The pic shows the pushrod crowding the bolt hole. For this Super Victor intake 1.25” long for 10 holes, and 1” for the center spots. I marked the head and the bolt head w red to remind whoever may take this engine apart (hopefully Ill go before it does) will make the conncetion.
Im sure everyone is familiar w the potential bolt/pushrod interference on 2 of the center bolts. The pic shows the pushrod crowding the bolt hole. For this Super Victor intake 1.25” long for 10 holes, and 1” for the center spots. I marked the head and the bolt head w red to remind whoever may take this engine apart (hopefully Ill go before it does) will make the conncetion.
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A couple issues come up today..
1) starter teeth clearance is ~.050 . Powermaster says .025-.030. Even with the extra clearance, after flywheel engagement the starter pinion doesn’t retract, and would be an issue w the engine running. How to deal w that?
2) the distributor driven gear was setup for a flat tappet cam, not sure what the material is, but I need to find out if its compatible w the roller cam gear. The distributor is an MSD, and the cam is Howards hydraulic roller. Not sure if cam specs make a difference other than material?
1) starter teeth clearance is ~.050 . Powermaster says .025-.030. Even with the extra clearance, after flywheel engagement the starter pinion doesn’t retract, and would be an issue w the engine running. How to deal w that?
2) the distributor driven gear was setup for a flat tappet cam, not sure what the material is, but I need to find out if its compatible w the roller cam gear. The distributor is an MSD, and the cam is Howards hydraulic roller. Not sure if cam specs make a difference other than material?
Nice work, I like to look down the pushrod slot under the valve cover to confirm clearance.
Howards hydraulic roller cams are setup to use an iron distributor gear, you don't need a bronze one.
Are you talking radial or axial clearance?
Howards hydraulic roller cams are setup to use an iron distributor gear, you don't need a bronze one.
Clearance between the starter gear and ring gear on the flexplate. .050+ but when I use a battery to engage the pinion (not turn the engine over) it sticks when I disconnect the cable to the small starter post.
Do you know is that an iron gear on the MSD?
Do you know is that an iron gear on the MSD?
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So minor sticking when the engine is off can be normal, it should retract when the engine rotates. Sticking during starting is usually caused by the starter being too close to the flexplate, which a shim between the starter and the block would fix that. Too far away and you will strip the flexplate teeth.
However, you are saying you have more clearance than necessary. Is that radial or axial?
Radial clearance is increased by putting a shim between the block and starter. This is usually measured with a pin guage or drill bit with the starter engaged manually.
Axial clearance is decreased or increased by removing or adding a shim between the starter motor and the starter mounting base. This is usually measured with feeler gauges or a caliper when the starter is not engaged.
However, you are saying you have more clearance than necessary. Is that radial or axial?
Radial clearance is increased by putting a shim between the block and starter. This is usually measured with a pin guage or drill bit with the starter engaged manually.
Axial clearance is decreased or increased by removing or adding a shim between the starter motor and the starter mounting base. This is usually measured with feeler gauges or a caliper when the starter is not engaged.
