Easily one of the best series on YouTube. Only bad thing about them is the glacially slow pace that they put videos out.
CK5
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70 Jimmy--Rusty Rebuild
- Thread starter toomany
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Easily one of the best series on YouTube. Only bad thing about them is the glacially slow pace that they put videos out.
yeah, but I watch a few builds here on CK5... I'm used to glacially slow builds...
You know who you are.
yeah, but I watch a few builds here on CK5... I'm used to glacially slow builds...
You know who you are.
Primed the oil pump through the side of the block and added oil. Blueprint recommends specific oils, Vr1 10-30 being one of the approved ones.
New starter and bolts.
Made up some battery cables from 2ga. Decided to run a 4ga wire into the cab to power the big items rather than bring out a bunch of wires to the battery. This draws power from the positive post on the starter. Also ran a 4ga ground cable, connected to the same spot on the block as the main ground.
Doing this allowed me to shorten a lot of the power wires (Hvac, Terminator, fuse box). Holley does say the main power wires should only be connected directly to the battery. If this give me problems, I'll admit I was wrong and move them.
In an effort to keep wires going to the same areas together, ran the purple solenoid and back up light wires through the center bulkhead. I believe this is all that needs to come through this spot now.
A fuel system/electrical item that I am adding for future use is a flex fuel sensor. This along with the fuel pressure regulator that I have is setting me up nicely for a belt driven intake down the road. I may need to swap out injectors and another different fuel pump to take full advantage of it. E85 is here to stay and is readily available around here...might as well use it.
This is a flex sensor and alternator harness. Let's the Holley control the PWM of the alternator.
Have been testing circuits as I go with DVOM, checking for continuity. Everything had passed without issue. Ended up cutting off the turn signal switch plug from my original harness to wire into the chassis side. Put a battery in and got it to crank over (if you guessed that's why I started the day with oil you would be correct). Wiper motor and horn work. All lights work as they should with a test light on them.
New starter and bolts.
Made up some battery cables from 2ga. Decided to run a 4ga wire into the cab to power the big items rather than bring out a bunch of wires to the battery. This draws power from the positive post on the starter. Also ran a 4ga ground cable, connected to the same spot on the block as the main ground.
Doing this allowed me to shorten a lot of the power wires (Hvac, Terminator, fuse box). Holley does say the main power wires should only be connected directly to the battery. If this give me problems, I'll admit I was wrong and move them.
In an effort to keep wires going to the same areas together, ran the purple solenoid and back up light wires through the center bulkhead. I believe this is all that needs to come through this spot now.
A fuel system/electrical item that I am adding for future use is a flex fuel sensor. This along with the fuel pressure regulator that I have is setting me up nicely for a belt driven intake down the road. I may need to swap out injectors and another different fuel pump to take full advantage of it. E85 is here to stay and is readily available around here...might as well use it.
This is a flex sensor and alternator harness. Let's the Holley control the PWM of the alternator.
Have been testing circuits as I go with DVOM, checking for continuity. Everything had passed without issue. Ended up cutting off the turn signal switch plug from my original harness to wire into the chassis side. Put a battery in and got it to crank over (if you guessed that's why I started the day with oil you would be correct). Wiper motor and horn work. All lights work as they should with a test light on them.
Statisticly the odds of USPS loosing part of my package I shipped to Tom Woods are pretty low. Odds of Tom Woods shipping my completed parts to someone with the exact same name as me in New Jersey (I'm in Michigan) are even lower. Odds of that other person placing the same order as me in the same time frame are even lower...but it happened.
I don't have a super common name either. I wondered what was up when I got billed twice for the same order. Called them up to find out about the mix up. Had to get UPS to intercept the package and reroute it to me.
Not a huge deal (I don't think) but this isn't the tail cone that I sent them, mine wasn't painted and I removed the barb for the vent hose. It was just loosely pressed in and I didn't want it to get lost. This one has threads tapped and the barn came back with it.
The way they packaged it, the seal looks a little messed up. Once I pull the flange off I'll see if I need to replace it before reassembling.
I don't have a super common name either. I wondered what was up when I got billed twice for the same order. Called them up to find out about the mix up. Had to get UPS to intercept the package and reroute it to me.
Not a huge deal (I don't think) but this isn't the tail cone that I sent them, mine wasn't painted and I removed the barb for the vent hose. It was just loosely pressed in and I didn't want it to get lost. This one has threads tapped and the barn came back with it.
The way they packaged it, the seal looks a little messed up. Once I pull the flange off I'll see if I need to replace it before reassembling.
They sent mine back painted with the barb reinstalled and the speedo cable hole cleaned out and rethreaded.
I was thinking that they have a few on the shelf and just grab one from the "done" pile and send it. Do a batch at a time once they have a few stock ones on hand.
The paint on it has some wear in a few places. Could be just from handling or from installation/ use.
The paint on it has some wear in a few places. Could be just from handling or from installation/ use.
Transfer case back together. The seal that they sent looked to be alright. Installed a new one on the front output along with new spline seals.
Back in the truck with driveshafts in.
Front got a new Spicer joint at the end. This was a shaft out of my collection that happened to be the correct length. From the looks of the weld, it's been shortened before. Now that it's installed, definitely has a wobble to it. Probably get it retubed or source another one. It'll work for now though.
With the truck on the ground and the weight on the suspension I'll need to either move the perches a little or put an angle shim in to point the pinion up some. I figured this was going to happen and didn't tighten the u-bolts completely years ago.
While it's on the lift I try knocking out the exhaust and run the wiring that's underneath the floor.
For exhaust, it'll be mandrel bent 2.5", X-pipe and dual Hooker AeroChambers. The X-pipe came with some 45* bends and a couple straight pieces. Picked up another universal kit for some more 45's, 90's and 180's.
Wanted more rumble from this one than my other truck with the Magnaflows on it. The AeroChambers are a chambered muffler that flows pretty well still. If you hold it just right you can see all the way through it.
Back in the truck with driveshafts in.
Front got a new Spicer joint at the end. This was a shaft out of my collection that happened to be the correct length. From the looks of the weld, it's been shortened before. Now that it's installed, definitely has a wobble to it. Probably get it retubed or source another one. It'll work for now though.
With the truck on the ground and the weight on the suspension I'll need to either move the perches a little or put an angle shim in to point the pinion up some. I figured this was going to happen and didn't tighten the u-bolts completely years ago.
While it's on the lift I try knocking out the exhaust and run the wiring that's underneath the floor.
For exhaust, it'll be mandrel bent 2.5", X-pipe and dual Hooker AeroChambers. The X-pipe came with some 45* bends and a couple straight pieces. Picked up another universal kit for some more 45's, 90's and 180's.
Wanted more rumble from this one than my other truck with the Magnaflows on it. The AeroChambers are a chambered muffler that flows pretty well still. If you hold it just right you can see all the way through it.
Started on the exhaust. There's a little more than an inch of room between the X and the body. About the same over the driveshaft.
Had to remove the crossmember at the body mounts/front of springs. Will try reworking the stock one. Have a couple ideas in mind if I need to make a whole new one.
Had to remove the crossmember at the body mounts/front of springs. Will try reworking the stock one. Have a couple ideas in mind if I need to make a whole new one.
Flipped the stock crossmember and moved it forward one set of holes. Cut some notches for the pipes to pass. Hard to see, but on the top is a piece of 2x3x3/16 angle. I'll need to clearance for the driveshaft, have a piece of 6" pipe I'll section into it for that. It doesn't need much, but better safe than sorry. It's only the last inch or so of up travel that it'll hit. I may add some cross bracing between the two as well.
Mufflers in. Had to rotate them to get clearance for the shocks.
There is around 1/2" of clearance between the pipes and the crossmembers. It's fairly rigid and I can't get it to hit anywhere by moving it. Still need to pull that last section out and weld the pipes to the mufflers...only heavy tacks right now.
From the side, can't hardly see them. At ride height their even less visible.
Struggled with how to get the tail pipes where I want them. Debated on going over the springs/under the frame. That put them real close to the u-bolt plates and I think they'd hit. Decided to run along the gas tank, inside the frame, then turn 90* and head out to a 45 at the bottom of the quarters. I've got a specific spot/look I'm going for and I think I can hit it doing that.
Tossed the bumper on to be sure the pipes would be hidden. They should be at pretty much any angle you can see it from at ride height.
Called it a day before doing anything with the tail pipes, but with a solid plan in mind they shouldn't take too long.
Mufflers in. Had to rotate them to get clearance for the shocks.
There is around 1/2" of clearance between the pipes and the crossmembers. It's fairly rigid and I can't get it to hit anywhere by moving it. Still need to pull that last section out and weld the pipes to the mufflers...only heavy tacks right now.
From the side, can't hardly see them. At ride height their even less visible.
Struggled with how to get the tail pipes where I want them. Debated on going over the springs/under the frame. That put them real close to the u-bolt plates and I think they'd hit. Decided to run along the gas tank, inside the frame, then turn 90* and head out to a 45 at the bottom of the quarters. I've got a specific spot/look I'm going for and I think I can hit it doing that.
Tossed the bumper on to be sure the pipes would be hidden. They should be at pretty much any angle you can see it from at ride height.
Called it a day before doing anything with the tail pipes, but with a solid plan in mind they shouldn't take too long.
May I ask what your plans are to keep from cooking the floor and anything on it?
I know that my '72 had the exhaust farther away than that, and the floor would get too hot to touch.
I know that my '72 had the exhaust farther away than that, and the floor would get too hot to touch.
It only starts getting real close once it gets past the transfer case. Before that it's no different than my other truck and that one doesn't have any heat issues from exhaust.
In addition to the coatings already on the bottom, I may do some on the top underneath the carpet.
I'm honestly not that concerned about it. This will only have a soft top (that will probably be rolled up most of the time) and the chances of anyone being in the back seat are extremely low. Any of my other K5's have never bothered me with the temperatures inside. I'll admit that this one has the pipes ran closer to the floor, but the mufflers are in about the same area.
If I need to make changes I will. One of the reasons I'm fully assembling and going to try getting a season of driving on it before taking it apart for paint. Of the few months that our "driving season" lasts, only two of those get really hot (July, August). The rest of the time it's more mild temps and cooler nights.
In addition to the coatings already on the bottom, I may do some on the top underneath the carpet.
I'm honestly not that concerned about it. This will only have a soft top (that will probably be rolled up most of the time) and the chances of anyone being in the back seat are extremely low. Any of my other K5's have never bothered me with the temperatures inside. I'll admit that this one has the pipes ran closer to the floor, but the mufflers are in about the same area.
If I need to make changes I will. One of the reasons I'm fully assembling and going to try getting a season of driving on it before taking it apart for paint. Of the few months that our "driving season" lasts, only two of those get really hot (July, August). The rest of the time it's more mild temps and cooler nights.
Finished up the exhaust. At least until I get a straighter bumper on it that's actually bolted on. It's close enough that I can use a little heat to bend the tail pipes if I don't like how their sitting, will trim them to match at that time as well.
Both sides follow the same routing. Two 90's to run along the tank then a 90 out to the side with a 45. Used band clamps to attach to the mufflers.
It's not 100% exactly where I wanted them. Couldn't get there without a lot of cutting and welding. This is close enough. I'd say I'm 95% satisfied with where they are. They are in the same spot on the quarters, just slightly different lengths for now.
If I were to do it over again, I'd go with an H-pipe instead of the X. Only reason I went with the X was because I feel they have a slight sound advantage. Neither one really makes more power than the other (I believe a crossover is really only worth 5-10hp...if that).
With the short wheelbase fitting the X was a fair amount of work. An H would have been so much easier. For comparison, my other truck is an 86 short box and it has almost the exact same routing and that one basically fell together with room to spare.
Both sides follow the same routing. Two 90's to run along the tank then a 90 out to the side with a 45. Used band clamps to attach to the mufflers.
It's not 100% exactly where I wanted them. Couldn't get there without a lot of cutting and welding. This is close enough. I'd say I'm 95% satisfied with where they are. They are in the same spot on the quarters, just slightly different lengths for now.
If I were to do it over again, I'd go with an H-pipe instead of the X. Only reason I went with the X was because I feel they have a slight sound advantage. Neither one really makes more power than the other (I believe a crossover is really only worth 5-10hp...if that).
With the short wheelbase fitting the X was a fair amount of work. An H would have been so much easier. For comparison, my other truck is an 86 short box and it has almost the exact same routing and that one basically fell together with room to spare.
Snagged a 3d printed bracket for the flex fuel sensor. Also got the remaining fittings I needed for the fuel system...other than the hoses from the lines to the regulator and to the rail. Mounted this on the frame rail just behind the rear shackle hanger.
Round 2 of trying to get the clutch hose connected. Because of where it comes out, I can't use a 90 right off of the master. The -3 male/male would have worked had the hole not been drilled extra deep. I think I've found a 3/8-24 o-ring fitting that will work. Wilwood sends a -3 to inverted flare fitting which would work fine if I wanted to run a hard line.
Using these to secure the wiring under the dash. About the size of a nickel and have a 10lb pull rating.
Took advantage of Summits sale last week and bought the hydrobooster.
Drilled the hole in the firewall. Even though it hangs off the pedal box for the most part, I'm glad I left the factory bracing in when I shaved that side of the firewall.
Of course it didn't want to play nice with the bracket I had for the clutch master cylinder. That was meant for a vacuum booster and it's weird pivot linkage. Trimmed the sides off and it went right on.
Tossed the fender back on, inner is a little loose yet. This will come back off again. Only wanted to see how much room I had for fuel lines and power steering lines. Plan to hang the fuel pressure regulator off of the booster somewhere.
Got all of the Terminator wiring done that I can. Waiting on accessories (alternator) and radiator (cooling fan). Lighting harness is run to the back as well with the fuel pump/gauge wiring.
Powered up the Terminator for the first time. Was prompted to do a TPS autoset right away. Kept getting an error message. Decided to go through the setup wizard anyway. Found out you need to set it for DBW in the initial setup. After that the autoset went without a problem. Fuel pump primes, throttle works, CTS reads ambient temp.
I may or may not have fired it off of some brake clean before I came in for the night.
Round 2 of trying to get the clutch hose connected. Because of where it comes out, I can't use a 90 right off of the master. The -3 male/male would have worked had the hole not been drilled extra deep. I think I've found a 3/8-24 o-ring fitting that will work. Wilwood sends a -3 to inverted flare fitting which would work fine if I wanted to run a hard line.
Using these to secure the wiring under the dash. About the size of a nickel and have a 10lb pull rating.
Took advantage of Summits sale last week and bought the hydrobooster.
Drilled the hole in the firewall. Even though it hangs off the pedal box for the most part, I'm glad I left the factory bracing in when I shaved that side of the firewall.
Of course it didn't want to play nice with the bracket I had for the clutch master cylinder. That was meant for a vacuum booster and it's weird pivot linkage. Trimmed the sides off and it went right on.
Tossed the fender back on, inner is a little loose yet. This will come back off again. Only wanted to see how much room I had for fuel lines and power steering lines. Plan to hang the fuel pressure regulator off of the booster somewhere.
Got all of the Terminator wiring done that I can. Waiting on accessories (alternator) and radiator (cooling fan). Lighting harness is run to the back as well with the fuel pump/gauge wiring.
Powered up the Terminator for the first time. Was prompted to do a TPS autoset right away. Kept getting an error message. Decided to go through the setup wizard anyway. Found out you need to set it for DBW in the initial setup. After that the autoset went without a problem. Fuel pump primes, throttle works, CTS reads ambient temp.
I may or may not have fired it off of some brake clean before I came in for the night.
The no update, update. Not much has happened on this the last few weeks. Letting the budget recover some from the big items I bought this summer.
Finally got the clutch line sorted out. 3/8-24 o-ring to -3AN fitting is what was needed. Also picked up the -4 female to -3 male fitting I needed for the slave cylinder end.
Decided to finish the fuel lines and fire the motor up without the cooling system and accessories in place. After that I will pull the motor and everything on the inside of the firewall. There are a bunch of welds that need ground down, primer and seam sealer to do on that side. Will also take care of the spot on the firewall where the driver's valve cover hits.
Once all that is done, going to paint the firewall, A-pillars and windshield frame. Reasoning for this is I only want to install the glass once. Somewhere in all of this I will install all of the front sheet metal and set my gaps/make sure it'll fit satisfactory, prior to painting. Plan is to still put some miles on before final bodywork and paint. It will only be a partial tear down at that point.
Going to add this here instead of bumping the other thread for it (think it's been over a year since I've updated it)
Pulled the 86 in and started giving it a once over. Taking it to Silver Lake Sand Dunes next weekend. Truck doesn't need much I try driving it once or twice a week. Not much has changed on it...still needs tailgate painted and radio installed.
Finally got the clutch line sorted out. 3/8-24 o-ring to -3AN fitting is what was needed. Also picked up the -4 female to -3 male fitting I needed for the slave cylinder end.
Decided to finish the fuel lines and fire the motor up without the cooling system and accessories in place. After that I will pull the motor and everything on the inside of the firewall. There are a bunch of welds that need ground down, primer and seam sealer to do on that side. Will also take care of the spot on the firewall where the driver's valve cover hits.
Once all that is done, going to paint the firewall, A-pillars and windshield frame. Reasoning for this is I only want to install the glass once. Somewhere in all of this I will install all of the front sheet metal and set my gaps/make sure it'll fit satisfactory, prior to painting. Plan is to still put some miles on before final bodywork and paint. It will only be a partial tear down at that point.
Going to add this here instead of bumping the other thread for it (think it's been over a year since I've updated it)
Pulled the 86 in and started giving it a once over. Taking it to Silver Lake Sand Dunes next weekend. Truck doesn't need much I try driving it once or twice a week. Not much has changed on it...still needs tailgate painted and radio installed.
Finished the fuel lines and mounted the regulator. Used Fragola Real Street PTFE hose and ends for future E85 use.
The regulator uses straight cut O-ring threads to seal. Normally I'd run the provided AN adapters and a regular 90* fitting on the end of the hose. Because of the tight clearance to the proportioning valve, opted for a 90* O-ring hose end.
Pulled PTO cover on the transmission to make sure it was drained and nothing broken in it (I've never actually driven this transmission). Searched around for the correct GM or Mopar fluid for it and came up empty. Settled on some Royal Purple that others seemed to have succes with. It's a GL4 which is the important bit I believe.
Cycled the key a few times to check for leaks and pressure. None popped up so I hit the key again and it fired right up and settled into a 900rpm idle after a few seconds. The above video is legit the first start and few seconds of run time.
Only ran if for a couple minutes. Enough to check oil pressure (60psi @idle) and any bad noises.
Up next will be to strip it all back down to finish the inside of the firewall, prime, seam seal and sound deadening. Prime and paint the outer firewall then I can continue on with assembly.
The regulator uses straight cut O-ring threads to seal. Normally I'd run the provided AN adapters and a regular 90* fitting on the end of the hose. Because of the tight clearance to the proportioning valve, opted for a 90* O-ring hose end.
Pulled PTO cover on the transmission to make sure it was drained and nothing broken in it (I've never actually driven this transmission). Searched around for the correct GM or Mopar fluid for it and came up empty. Settled on some Royal Purple that others seemed to have succes with. It's a GL4 which is the important bit I believe.
Cycled the key a few times to check for leaks and pressure. None popped up so I hit the key again and it fired right up and settled into a 900rpm idle after a few seconds. The above video is legit the first start and few seconds of run time.
Only ran if for a couple minutes. Enough to check oil pressure (60psi @idle) and any bad noises.
Up next will be to strip it all back down to finish the inside of the firewall, prime, seam seal and sound deadening. Prime and paint the outer firewall then I can continue on with assembly.
One of the last big ticket items I needed was gauges. I really, really wanted to go with a Holley pro dash but decided against it for aesthetic reasons. Having that giant flat screen in the dash just wasn't going to be the look I want.
Took advantage of a black Friday sale LMC was having and picked up Dakota Digital RTX gauges. Even with the 15% off I got...the Holley dash would have been cheaper. With all the parts I bought that day I think I saved close to $300.
Pretty standard stuff as far as these kits go. Sending units, wiring, few switches, control box and the gauges themselves.
Repurposed the bracket that came with my throttle pedal to mount the box. Had to cut some off, weld some tabs and bend it a little. Did save me a little bit of time using it though.
Tossed the gauges in real quick to check for clearance, had plenty. I do have a new bezel for it once final assembly comes.
Started running what wires I could up to the box. Need to mount the senders and run their wires along with a few other misc wires.
Took advantage of a black Friday sale LMC was having and picked up Dakota Digital RTX gauges. Even with the 15% off I got...the Holley dash would have been cheaper. With all the parts I bought that day I think I saved close to $300.
Pretty standard stuff as far as these kits go. Sending units, wiring, few switches, control box and the gauges themselves.
Repurposed the bracket that came with my throttle pedal to mount the box. Had to cut some off, weld some tabs and bend it a little. Did save me a little bit of time using it though.
Tossed the gauges in real quick to check for clearance, had plenty. I do have a new bezel for it once final assembly comes.
Started running what wires I could up to the box. Need to mount the senders and run their wires along with a few other misc wires.
Christmas day update. Bouncing around a little bit on what I'm doing. Trying to get the rest of the "heavy fab" work done before I pull it apart.
Tossed the top back on a few days ago when I had help over. Hung the passenger side fender. Put the fender on so I could finish shimming the body mounts and getting acceptable gaps. This is the most complete the truck has been in a few years.
The top is on to help with putting in the roll bar. Normally I'm all for buying new tools and had planned on buying a bender to build my own bar/cage. After doing some thinking decided to buy a pre-bent one. I'm into this for less than I could get the tube for. I've never used a bender to build anything from scratch. Have no doubt that I could have gotten it done, but I'm sure there would have been some wasted tube. At $190/stick, I didn't want that pricey of a learning curve.
This is a Bronco Bob 8pt roll cage kit. 2" .120 DOM. Again, even with shipping this cost less than what I could buy the tubing for. It might not be exactly how I would have bent one, but from what I've seen, they don't look bad when together.
For what I plan on using this truck for, it should be more than adequate (better than nothing or a factory roll bar). If/when I take this truck to SilverLake, they require some kind of roll over protection behind the occupants. The other option is wearing a helmet full time out there. The other advantage I'm after is body stiffening, plan to tie it into the A-pillars and windshield frame (reason why I set my body gaps).
Only have the C-pillar in, and it's only tacked in for now. Directions say to start at the rear and build forward. Also say if it fits the hard top it will fit a soft top. Spent a good hour or so making sure it was where I wanted it. No holes are drilled yet so it can move easily still.
It's tight to the top, 3/8" or so clearance. Everything will stay tacked together until the soft top shows up and goes on. Ordered that last week and it has a 4-6 week leadtime.
Tossed the top back on a few days ago when I had help over. Hung the passenger side fender. Put the fender on so I could finish shimming the body mounts and getting acceptable gaps. This is the most complete the truck has been in a few years.
The top is on to help with putting in the roll bar. Normally I'm all for buying new tools and had planned on buying a bender to build my own bar/cage. After doing some thinking decided to buy a pre-bent one. I'm into this for less than I could get the tube for. I've never used a bender to build anything from scratch. Have no doubt that I could have gotten it done, but I'm sure there would have been some wasted tube. At $190/stick, I didn't want that pricey of a learning curve.
This is a Bronco Bob 8pt roll cage kit. 2" .120 DOM. Again, even with shipping this cost less than what I could buy the tubing for. It might not be exactly how I would have bent one, but from what I've seen, they don't look bad when together.
For what I plan on using this truck for, it should be more than adequate (better than nothing or a factory roll bar). If/when I take this truck to SilverLake, they require some kind of roll over protection behind the occupants. The other option is wearing a helmet full time out there. The other advantage I'm after is body stiffening, plan to tie it into the A-pillars and windshield frame (reason why I set my body gaps).
Only have the C-pillar in, and it's only tacked in for now. Directions say to start at the rear and build forward. Also say if it fits the hard top it will fit a soft top. Spent a good hour or so making sure it was where I wanted it. No holes are drilled yet so it can move easily still.
It's tight to the top, 3/8" or so clearance. Everything will stay tacked together until the soft top shows up and goes on. Ordered that last week and it has a 4-6 week leadtime.
