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700r4 to SM465 swap questions????

Hey guys back again with some little updates.

Got the clutch pedal assembly from a junkyard, although the clutch pedal was missing the push pin that goes into the master cylinder. Going back to the junkyard within the next few weeks to search for more parts.

Found out that (at least from the preliminary eye line up) that the clutch pedal and replacement brake pedal should bolt right in. Also there are "Knockouts" in the firewall for a master cylinder, so finding the proper mounting location for it should not be a issue.

Does anyone know if they make a internal slave cylinder for the SM465's, or is it just better to go with a external? I know the 87-91 'Burbs Blazers and some pickups still used the SM465 (as we were discussing) so I could just pick up a external slave cylinder replacement from Summit, but I would prefer however a internal slave.
 
Good thread,

On topic..kinda.

anyone know if the 80 and older clutch pedal assemblies will work in an 81 and up.
specificly, will a 78 clutch pedal ass. work in a 88 suburban
 
nv4500 swap to an 88 k5

One of the hardest parts of this swap has been finding pedals from an 85+ rig.
Well I found them in a k30. Any one know if they will fit or must the come from a k/c10?
 
They'll work, but you might have brake pedal problems due to the hydro boost.

Martin
 
nv4500 swap to an 88 k5

Thanks Martin. Should I just get a brake booster for a k30 then? I assume that's the hydraboost unit you are talking about?
 
Yes, but it is hydraulic (powered by the power steering pump) not vacuum.

Martin
 
I assume that would mean I need a new power steering pump is well then. & I also assume that A k30 pump would still work with this k-5 steering gearbox and Bolt to the same place that the original pump did.
 
I just did the opposite, I removed my sm465 for a 700r4. I can't believe the difference because of the gear ratios. I feel like I lost a bunch of power. Now I don't know what to do with my 465, np208 with a Centerforce dual friction clutch with an aluminum flywheel.The clutch assembly cost over 800 bucks and it's like new. Can any of you guys use it ? I'm in Reno
 
Martin will have a cow over this... :haha:

keep in mind that your also getting a bit of parasitic loss with a slushbox compared to the manual..

also, might wanna try putting it in our classifieds...
 
But also crap-o-matics rob like 15% of your power due to indirect power transfer
 
check your pinion angle you probably have a longer transmission with that automatic therefore it changes your drive line angle which can draw power as well I just fixed mine which was way off and I gained what felt like a good 30 horsepower and about 700 rpm of my towing at 65
 
Actually I installed a Dana 300 twin stick behind the 700, with new driveshafts and one tons. I know it's parasitic loss and a huge diff. in gearing. However, with the 550 h/p I have on tap, I've already learned to live with it. I thought some one might be able to use the tranny and t.c. case. Also have a brand new ORD tie rod and drag link I couldn't use, with d 60 TREs . I went with Artec high steer arms so I couldn't use them.
 
You keep say difference in gearing but a 700r4 has pretty deep gears for first and second. Third is 1:1 which is the same. Actually the 700 has a 3.06:1 1st and 1.67:1 2nd vs the 465 which is 3.56:1 1st and 1.57:1 2nd so pretty much no difference in gears
 
I don't know where you got your info. from but my 465 has 6.55:1 1st gear, 3.58:1 2nd gear, 1.70:1 3rd gear, 1.00:1 4th gear, and 6.09:1 reverse. The 700 has 3.059:1 1st , 1.625:1 2nd , 1.000:1 3rd , 0.696:1 4th , 2.2294:1 reverse.As you can see, there is a huge diff. in 1st,and 2nd. That is the reason I keep bringing it up.
 
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