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700r4 to SM465 swap questions????

I welded up the shifter to "cure the sloppy shifter" but i think i fu*ked up. I welded the broken spot welds and around the "ball", and i welded the "pin" at the bottom that goes into the shift rails. Now with the top cover off the transmission i cant move the shifter at all to get to the neutral reverse "sweet spot" to get the top cover back on. Did i fu*k up by welding that "pin" at the bottom of the shifter???

Heres a link to help explain. LOL.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/sm465/index.html
 
tRustyK5 said:
Ideally you'd have 5.13's and an NV4500 with those 37's. Then you get the benefit of the deeper gears for off road, and still good freeway rev's.

are you as high as the OP? thats wayyyyy too deep for 37's hes not gunna burn up the overdrive with an nv4500 like he would with an automatic OD and too high of gears. im running 350(not built at all) 465 205 4.56's with 40's and im golden as hell. BUT i cant go any faster that 60/65 on the freeway(where an OD would be nice) but its a wheeler so who cares. i have 5.13 gearsets for my eatons and the only way ill ever put them in is if 42's or 44's drop out of the sky

Frankly, with 4.10's and 37's you'd hardly get to use the 5th gear. 1700 rpm on the highway is borderline lugging it, and every hill you'd have to drop down a gear. More annoying than it's worth.

best solution : drive faster

Rene
Click to expand...

twojoints444 said:
I welded up the shifter to "cure the sloppy shifter" but i think i fu*ked up. I welded the broken spot welds and around the "ball", and i welded the "pin" at the bottom that goes into the shift rails. Now with the top cover off the transmission i cant move the shifter at all to get to the neutral reverse "sweet spot" to get the top cover back on. Did i fu*k up by welding that "pin" at the bottom of the shifter???

i really hope that when you say "pin" that you arent referring to the very bottom most part of the actual shifter because thats totally 100% no what billavista was talking about when he was talking about welding the roll pins in the keep them in place

Heres a link to help explain. LOL.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/sm465/index.html
Click to expand...

ok first off, stop getting high. its making you retarded. and stop eating up everything these guys tell you like all the food im sure you eat after wasting your money on pot, im not saying any of the things theyre telling you are wrong or right just stop eating it all up so easily.
you asking what transmission to get is all personal preference if you want an nv4500 to get better highway mpg (and you will notice the difference) then get one. if you want to beat the living piss out of your trans get a 465.
personally i dont see you doing much "hardcore wheeling" but instead tons of "pavement pounding" because you havent mentioned or asked any questions (we all know you LOVE to ask questions by all the ????????? everywhere) about the strength or durability of your 10 bolts and 37's which is a terrific idea if you enjoy breaking $hit but as i said before i dont see you doing much real wheeling so its ok . but if i were you i would have got a nv4500 you would have been able to haul as$ down the freeway with your gear and tire combo


38377k5 said:
So, if I may be so bold as to ask, why is the NV4500 considered such an upgrade for people?

Yeah, it has an overdrive which might net you another MPG or two. But for the $1000+ cost and all the hassle, it would take you forever to recoup the cost. Especially given how rarely most people drive these trucks.

The SM465 is shorter, stronger and WAY cheaper. And of course, easier to adapt to transfer cases since it was a common factory option. And don't forget about that super low first gear in the 465.

For the record my tow rig has an NV4500 and my buggy has an SM465, so I've driven both a ton.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

chris i agree completely.

calling mr two joints blunt wrapper,
if you have any other questions ask chris (38377k5), he knows what he's talking about

 
awjeez.jpg
 
Well Blazer boss, I'm not high and don't partake. 5.13's with a NV4500 and 37's nets a nice real world freeway rpm of 2200 at 65 mph. Much tamer than your 4.56's and 40's without OD yet better for off road. Who's high?

Drive faster isn't what I call "tech heavy" advice.

Next...you take another shot like that here and you can count out CK5 as a place you can keep coming to. Your sh!t attitude might fly at Pirate, but it doesn't fly here.

Rene
 
trustyk5 said:
well blazer boss, i'm not high and don't partake. 5.13's with a nv4500 and 37's nets a nice real world freeway rpm of 2200 at 65 mph. Much tamer than your 4.56's and 40's without od yet better for off road. Who's high?

did i say i was better offroad? No just said i was perfectly fine ofroad

drive faster isn't what i call "tech heavy" advice.
hahaha i didnt say it was!
next...you take another shot like that here and you can count out ck5 as a place you can keep coming to. Your sh!t attitude might fly at pirate, but it doesn't fly here.

then please ban me, its not my fault pitate is 100 percent better. The only reason anyone hates pirate is because people are mean to them and they get butthurt

rene
Click to expand...

. . .
 
You were almost as bad...however you didn't start this whole mess, and you didn't "ask" to be banned.

We don't tolerate personal attacks here, so keep that in mind next time.

Rene
 
Rene:
i am getting frusterated with this swap and i am thinking about aborting it and going with a th400 and forgetting about this 465 all together. would this b a mistake? i am still able to return 80% of the parts i bought and just slam in a th400 and have my truck back. I cant find the needed pedal assembly and knowone locally seems to want to help a guy out with these final steps.

What will my highway revs b like with the th400 np205 4.10's and 37's?
 
Your revs will be slightly higher than with the SM465, due to no lock-up convertor.

I have a hydro set-up here, but I'm down on the coast, and don't have much free time for the next few weeks at least. What part are you having a hard time trying to find? Is it just the pedal assembly?

Email me at [email protected] my main computer is down so I'm on our laptop.

Rene
 
I have a spare hydro pedal assembly, you can have it for the cost of shipping
. Should cost around 70 bucks US, and comes with unlimited tech support
 
Russell:
Thank You. Yes all i need is the pedal assembly but the thing is..... i have a hydro boost break system. a guy told me that this makes the pedal swap a whole diffrent ball game, sumthin about the plate in the firewall that the break booster/hydro booster bolts too? Have u heard of this.

But as for the shipping i live in BC so it should be cheep. Thank You again.
 
The only difference in those pedal assy. are the studs that are tacked
on that go through the firewall. The vacuum and h/b setup holes all
line up, you may have to change and remove/tack studs from the firewall
to the pedal assy. The m/c pushrod that goes through the firewall (the part that fits over the brake pedal) is a different size between h/b and vacuum. You can always swap the brake pedal from one to the other. All in all its a fairly easy swap. Get pedal assy. from a h/b truck and its a direct swap w/no mods.

Get the pedal assy. and dig in...will be self explanatory.
 
This pedal setup has stud positions for both vaccum and hydroboost brakes IIRC, I'll take a look next time I am out at my parent's place (probably Saturday). I can just put them on the bus for you if you want
 
heck yes. pm me ur email and we will go from there THANX AGAIN!

Now I just need a "double hump"/"W" style crossmember.........................
 
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