Yukon Jack
1/2 ton status
You're definitely getting closer - what is your plan for making the alternator bracket - what will be different?
CK5
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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build
- Thread starter bp71k5
- Start date
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Since I'm using tall valve covers, the old bracket doesn't allow the alternator to rotate far enough out of the way. I'm going to just try welding an extension piece about an inch long on the side that bolts to the head to keep it stocking looking.
The accelerator bracket is a more difficult issue. Since I'm using a TBI adaptor plate instead of the whole manifold, the standard brackets all bolt to the rear hole of the carb. Since all those holes are covered by the adaptor plate, I've got to use some other mounts. Also, the distance from the cable to the tbi throttle is different so the cable attachement sits back about 2 inches farther.
I've got about 4 different TBI brackets from the wrecking yards and all of them are close, but don't work perfect. I can take a picture of it, but the plan is to just bend up something similar to one of the tbi brackets like I did for the fuel lines.
The only thing I don't like about the plan is everything else on the top of the motor is aluminum or stainless which makes cleaning much easier (and looks nice). I may try to bend up a bracket out of some aluminum plate and see how it works.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
fuel pump sender modifications
I dropped the gas tank to add the return line to the sending unit. While it's out, I was able to mount the fuel pump much easier than with the tank up there. No changes to the stock hard lines.
I dropped the gas tank to add the return line to the sending unit. While it's out, I was able to mount the fuel pump much easier than with the tank up there. No changes to the stock hard lines.
That is about where i mounted one years ago when i had a TPI conversion. If that's in the area that is covered when the tank is installed it will be out of harms way but a pain in the a** to change if it fails and you're not near a nice comfortable place to work on it.
Go ahead, ask me how i know.
Go ahead, ask me how i know.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I was also able to modify the fuel sender to add a return line.
If you look closely, you can see the little lip I was able to create for it just like the main line. I drilled a small pilot hole and then sandwiched the cap between a 1/2" nut and a 5/16" bolt. I then just pressed the bolt through the cap and into the nut to create the lip.
I then took all the stuff off that could melt and fluxed and soldered the joint from the top. That was kinda a pain because the stainless pipe heats up really fast for some reason and both joints would get loose and twist all over.
I then tack welded the little braces underneath to keep from stressing the solder joints. It looks like it'll work pretty nice.
If you look closely, you can see the little lip I was able to create for it just like the main line. I drilled a small pilot hole and then sandwiched the cap between a 1/2" nut and a 5/16" bolt. I then just pressed the bolt through the cap and into the nut to create the lip.
I then took all the stuff off that could melt and fluxed and soldered the joint from the top. That was kinda a pain because the stainless pipe heats up really fast for some reason and both joints would get loose and twist all over.
I then tack welded the little braces underneath to keep from stressing the solder joints. It looks like it'll work pretty nice.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
It is pretty close but it's not covered by the tank. I only "eyeball" measured though so I'll need to do it once more to be sure. Thanks for the reminder!
I would have made that return line dump directly on top of the pick-up sock. That will help keep the engine from dying when you're low on fuel.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Yea, I tried to figure out a good way to do that. The issue was that the lines coming out of the sender can only route in one specific direction because the gas tank has a channel built into it that the lines sit down inside. Since the supply side is right in the back of that small flange, there's no room for another tube behind it where the sock is. I could have bent the bottom half of the return line to aim it toward the sock, but the tube bender and I don't get along very wall lately. I was afraid it would kink and I'd have to trash it. Maybe I'll try...
Edit: I tried and I didn't kink it. It doesn't dump straight onto the sock, but it's aimed right at it. In any case it should work better than it was. Thanks for the prodding...
That should work just fine.
By the way, you're doing a nice clean job of things. Keep up the good work.
By the way, you're doing a nice clean job of things. Keep up the good work.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Thanks. Your sig actually reminded me of another issue. Are you running the eldorado ebrakes on your 14b by any chance? I'm wondering how people generally route the cables. It looks like it would route best underneath the axle.
Yes i am, here's a couple pics of the set-up.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Also, I forgot about the big stuff. The big 14b rear end.
In retrospect, I should have just gone to pick-n-pull to get an axle. It would have been much less $$. When I took it into the gear shop to have them replace the internal bearings and seals and inspect it, they said I could probably run it for a while with the existing gears but that they were very worn and would likely be pretty noisy. $300 to install a new GM ring and pinion on top of the $350 to replace the bearings.
I also picked up a u-bolt pinion yolk from High Angle Driveline. The other one was a little worn and I figured why not get rid of those staps.
In retrospect, I should have just gone to pick-n-pull to get an axle. It would have been much less $$. When I took it into the gear shop to have them replace the internal bearings and seals and inspect it, they said I could probably run it for a while with the existing gears but that they were very worn and would likely be pretty noisy. $300 to install a new GM ring and pinion on top of the $350 to replace the bearings.
I also picked up a u-bolt pinion yolk from High Angle Driveline. The other one was a little worn and I figured why not get rid of those staps.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I also was able to install Kert's disc brake brackets. I painted them with this high-temp silicon rattle can coating that's supposed to be pretty good. Since you have the bake the stuff on in an oven, you can imagine the expression my wife had when I asked if it was ok to put a bunch of car parts in the oven for an hour. She let me though. 
The stuff seems to have worked ok, but it was really fragile before it was baked on. Some of the paint wore off on the sharp edges of the bracket between the time I painted it, let it dry, and got it into the oven.
The stuff seems to have worked ok, but it was really fragile before it was baked on. Some of the paint wore off on the sharp edges of the bracket between the time I painted it, let it dry, and got it into the oven.
Damn, they charged you to replace the ring and pinion when you were doing bearings? That's just crazy, when doing bearings you have to recheck and possibly reset the tolerances and so adding new gears doesn't add any extra time. What shop did you go to? I hope you don't tell me Rearend Specialties in Santa Clara.
You need to turn the bracket so that the caliper is mounted on the rear side of the axle with the bleeder screw pointing straight up otherwise you won't be able to bleed the air out of the system. Depending on where the bleeder screw sits you may still need to remove the calipers and stick a chunk of wood between the pads in order to bleed it anyways.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Hmm, were your cables long enough already or did you find a kit that included some extensions? Mine don't want to reach that far back. I did move the axle back 1", but it's at least 5" too short.
My cables are the stock cables. Your year blazer uses a different cable system than the later blazers do. Both of my cables come down the driverside then one cable crosses over to the passenger side right in front of the pinion support.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I think they charged me for some additional labor, but not much. The quote to replace the bearings and seals was $350 (parts and labor). Brand new GM R&P + labor to install was another $350.01
I could tell you it wasn't Driveline Specialties, but it wouldn't be true. They are on the way to work.
Got a recommendation?
I think they charged me for some additional labor, but not much. The quote to replace the bearings and seals was $350 (parts and labor). Brand new GM R&P + labor to install was another $350.01
I could tell you it wasn't Driveline Specialties, but it wouldn't be true. They are on the way to work.
So you haven't taken it in yet? If not my local tranny shop sets up diffs as well. Hell, i did my own about 5 1/2 years ago. The 14ff is one of the easy axles to do gears in.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Oh no, that ship has sailed. I do have to regear my front to match sometime though so I'll need to take it somewhere. I might be able to do it myself but I try to stay away from touching stuff that rotates more than a few hundred rpm. That's why I let you build the motor.
