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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build

thats awesome! ya im just waitin for themto go on sale...unless i run outa patience and just but one.
 
Update: 04/16/12

I got a chance to try out the tube bender this weekend. It did take a few attempts at checking the bend angle without taking the tube out of the bender and also calculating the spring back. I think I just need to do more bending.

I started out with the bending 101 tutorial over on pirate 4x4. If you follow that, you will understand this diagram I created for the tube running down the windshield to the floor. I had a total angle of 53 degrees to get from the existing b-pillar tube over the passenger door and down to the floor, but needed to do it in two steps in order to get close enough to the windshield frame like I wanted.

cagerepair003.jpg


So then I marked my tube and put it into the bender. Then I realized I needed a more reliable way to hold the magnetic angle finder on the tube in one spot during all the bending and found reference to an POB (plane of bend) device holder which is used to help figure out accurate tube rotation amounts. Mine is just some angle iron with a flat welded into it and held down with a tube clamp. I use it for tracking the bend angle in just one plane for now.

cagerepair002.jpg


There it's all ready to go.
cagerepair001.jpg


And here's some video with a warning about how loud the dumb air compressor is...


And another

And another.
[youtube]IZaOkF4-qKU[/youtube]

And here's where my first tube bending results. Overshot by about 1-2deg on the last bend but I think it'll work out. I don't have a reliable way to measure springback so I'll need to figure that out.

cagerepair004.jpg
 
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thats looks dam good! i read alot about the bendtech pro and watched a couple you tube videos, seems like it would be worth getting since it takes all the gues work out and will even give you the weight of your cage or anything else you make.
 
Like most things in life, the tools are only as good as the person using them..... You can build a good cage with a cement floor and chalk or with a $250 piece of software.

The software is great and definitely saves time once you learn it... The money you save by not wasting tube helps pay for the software really fast, but remember that you'll "invest" some money in tubing to get the software 100% calibrated and figuring out spring back values for various bend degrees.

-G
 
I did almost purchase the software but decided to wait until I needed to do a more complicated bend. This stuff is just a single plane bend so it's not very complicated.

Getting accurate measurements though is necessary with or without software. I need to re-bend the last tube as I mis-measured one of the bend lengths and so it's crashing into the windshield frame. :(
 
Don't worry about a few degrees of over bend. You can un bend that, Just need a large object that holds down something that you can slip the end of the tube in then just pull really hard on the other end. Do some small tugs first to get a feel but you will un bend 1 or 2 degrees easy.

We use the over head crane base in the shop.

We've done up to 5 degrees and had to deal with more.
 
Like most things in life, the tools are only as good as the person using them..... You can build a good cage with a cement floor and chalk or with a $250 piece of software.

The software is great and definitely saves time once you learn it... The money you save by not wasting tube helps pay for the software really fast, but remember that you'll "invest" some money in tubing to get the software 100% calibrated and figuring out spring back values for various bend degrees.

-G
good point, i didnt think about that:doah:
 
One good thing I've learned tonight is that having a "manual" option on the hydraulic pump is kinda nice for late nights in the garage bending tube without having to run the air compressor and waking up the neighborhood.

And so far, I've managed to make two 25 degree bends and measured ~1.5 degrees of springback on both so I'll have to make a log of each value I measure for when I eventually get some fancy software.
 
Brian,

You can make a spring back chart now... You'll find that large bends have more spring back, but unfortunately it's not a linear thing. You cant do a 10* bend and a 90* bend, figure out the spring back for each and then extrapolate the spring back value for all the possible bends in between those values.

As I built my cage, I kept careful track of each unique bend (degree value) and the spring back value I ended up with. Over time, as I built my chart with enough data points I was able to very accurately "guess" at other values later on.

Another thing that will be helpful eventually is to get a degree wheel for the bender, so that you can to multi-plane bends and track everything (rotation AND angle) accurately. Multiplane bends will make your head hurt in a hurry....and they can also waste a LOT of tube as you learn the tricks. BendTech really shines for these type of bends.

-G
 
Also keep in mind that no two pieces of material are the same. I have access to a CNC bender and you can take two stick of tubing and get different net bends off of the same program.

Cool Huh.:eek1:

That's why I know about un bending.:haha:

Keep track of you spring back like Greg said and you will come so close to what you want that it's fine. Remember you can always re bend, unbend a bit and worst case is that you have scrap. While scrap sucks and can be expensive you will be amazed at what you will use a piece of tube with a bend in it for.
 
Update: 04/21/12

It's taken much more scrap tube than I expected but I finally have two new down tubes. I haven't yet sleeved the joint in the tube as I was trying to figure out how long of an inner tube to use. My default guess is to use a 12" length of 1.5" inside so there would be 6" in each end with 4 plug welds on each half. Does that sound adequate? Overkill?

cagerepair008.jpg

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cagerepair015.jpg


Also got a good start boxing up the slider-thing. I had to cut it back a decent amount after I checked tire clearances with the 37's.
cagerepair013.jpg
 
I used a 12" slug for my cage... Seemed like the right amount to me as well.

-G
 
Update 05/19/2012

Nothing major done, but lots of little stuff that needs to get done eventually.

Picked up a new tool.
cagerepair022.jpg

My compressor just couldn't keep up with the die grinder so I ordered this adjustable speed grinder which has been great both because of the reduced noise, but also because I no longer need to use a drill bit to enlarge holes in stuff anymore.

Also required a set of these:
cagerepair030.jpg


I was able to create this angled bit for getting into those tight places...;)

cagerepair031.jpg


The grinder has a trigger lock so you dont have to hold it the entire time and when this bit caught on an edge, it threw the grinder into a crazy deathwobble. It was wobbling so hard i couldn't hit the switch and was barely able to keep my grip on it while had to search around for the end of the plug to shut it down. I'll check on the warranty to see if they'll replace the bit. :)

Then finished adding on the front fender bolt location. It's kinda tricky since I have to feed the bolt through a hole in the slider, and then into this little tube extension you can see.

cagerepair025.jpg



I also got the windshield crossbar tube in. Sorry it's a little dark.
cagerepair027.jpg


I had to add a small angle at each end because headroom was just too cramped with a straight bar. It was also going to block too much of the view of the sky so the bends allowed me to push it a bit farther forward and keep the headroom.

You can also see the plug welds on the tube joint closest to the camera. I went a little overboard on filling them. I also had limited access to above the crossbar tube which made welding that it difficult (and ugly) which is why I bought the die grinder. It'll make it easier to grind those out and reweld them once I pull it out of the garage as have better clearance.
 
Keep "plugging" away Brian! (pun intended)

I like that angled bit...I sometime drop my cutoff wheels and end up with a nice flat side that gives me similar clearance. :)

The angles on the front spreader bar are a good idea.... You get better visibility, clearance to fold the sunvisors up out of the way, and can also create a good tapered angle off the windshield header to allow for rainwater runoff when the softtop is installed.

Keep up the creativity and good progress! :waytogo:


-G
 

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