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72 burb (this is why i can't go to salvage yards)

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I've got a 6.2 and hydroboost on my 83 blazer. I did a rear 14bff with discs and then installed a disc/disc master cyl from a P30 step van and a disc/disc prop valve from Summit Racing. It stops great and has plenty of brakes. I then moved to Idaho and found out it's way scary on icy roads. I installed a manual prop valve in my rear circuit and have it turned way down(like almost all the way out) and it stops safer now but in a panic stop it will still prob spin in circles. It doesn't help either I'm running old bfg mud tires. If I had good siped a/ts it would be a little better but not perfect. Hydroboost is definitely the way to go.
 
Truckman4life said:
I've got a 6.2 and hydroboost on my 83 blazer. I did a rear 14bff with discs and then installed a disc/disc master cyl from a P30 step van and a disc/disc prop valve from Summit Racing. It stops great and has plenty of brakes. I then moved to Idaho and found out it's way scary on icy roads. I installed a manual prop valve in my rear circuit and have it turned way down(like almost all the way out) and it stops safer now but in a panic stop it will still prob spin in circles. It doesn't help either I'm running old bfg mud tires. If I had good siped a/ts it would be a little better but not perfect. Hydroboost is definitely the way to go.
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My donor vehicle has hydroboost. It will be swapped in along with a good amount of other parts. Ice And snow is most of my driving here in Montana. Drums ain't perfect but they have worked well so far.
 
If you like your parking brake, really, stay with rear drums. You don't need remotely as much braking power, that's what the fronts are for, and if you're not axle-deep in mud the drums will stay clean enough. The parking brake on the factory drums works sooooo well, when properly maintained, versus every other possible variation on discs (believe you me, I've tried them all.)

-- A
 
I told you guys a few.days ago that I picked up a PTO winch and shafts at a local mans personal Chevy yard. HE had the bumper, winch and shafts. I gave him my number and asked if he found the pto adapter for the transfer case to call me. Well he called today and said he found it. Its connected to a very rare GM Dana 20 transfer case!!!!!!! Score! Heading back over this week to pick it up. This one is a turbo 400/dana 20.
 
We need more pictures of everything! Hearing about all the stuff you've been getting for the truck is making me excited for this build, ha.
 
AbramJ said:
We need more pictures of everything! Hearing about all the stuff you've been getting for the truck is making me excited for this build, ha.
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I will get some pics of it when I pick it up. I'm not certain i will use the Dana 20 on the suburban. Strength behind A built diesel would be questionable. It might be ok but I would need to think it through.
 
I have parts ordered from all over the place. Waiting on stuff to start coming in so I can get to work on it. Parts truck 84 diesel suburban will be here this weekend. As will various NOS parts. It will take a while to get all the engine parts in hand. I hate this part of a build. The waiting and gathering
 
Been hitting the the books today fairly hard looking at turbos. Speeds, PSI, volume, all that sort of jazz and I think I was way off the mark with an H1C. I believe the right one to start with would be a TD04 for the lateral twin setup. Very common 4cylinder 6 cylinder turbo with the ability to push around 13-18.5 PSI. It does it in a hurry too. They are very fast spooling turbos. It's one of the most commonly used turbos around actually. Waste gated versions are abundant and since I am building the manifolds I don't really care what configuration they are in. I think they even come in a right and left orientation.
 
Definitely need to subscribe to this cool build. Thank you for saving this one from the crusher. :waytogo:
 
From what I've read and seen the output shaft is the week link on Dana 20. A stronger one can be swapped in but cost more money than it's probably worth. I'd rather have a 205 which may be able to use the pto unit to connect the winch. Wouldn't have to worry about strength too much then. Real downfall If 205 is not a great low range but you can make a range box or buy one later if it's a concern.
 
chulisohombre said:
From what I've read and seen the output shaft is the week link on Dana 20. A stronger one can be swapped in but cost more money than it's probably worth. I'd rather have a 205 which may be able to use the pto unit to connect the winch. Wouldn't have to worry about strength too much then. Real downfall If 205 is not a great low range but you can make a range box or buy one later if it's a concern.
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Yeah I have a 205 that I had planned to use. I don't do any hard core wheeling unless you consider my driveway is worse than most trails those guys ride on. This truck won't run big tires or lift, it will be a tow rig.
 
Yo
Vombrown said:
Yeah I have a 205 that I had planned to use. I don't do any hard core wheeling unless you consider my driveway is worse than most trails those guys ride on. This truck won't run big tires or lift, it will be a tow rig.
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Then you would be ok if all the parts are there for the pto and the Dana 20 is in good shape. If you plan slightly bigger than stock and just road or trails it should last fine.
 
With the idea of the smaller turbos I had to call Heath diesel back for a small chat. This is certainly the right system to start with. Apparently they have worked on the td04s extensively. With a couple of mods seeing 30psi per turbo. WOW! I won't need anything near that but from what I am gathering there is tons of room to run with them. Heath apparently has a turbo master for them as well as upgrade everything. Good stuff to know for sure. I am sourcing a couple now to use for moch up then will most likely send them off to Heath for the upgrades mentioned earlier.

My limiting factor is going to be the mechanical injector pump. While it can be built to push a lot of fuel it isn't going to make the horsepower of a computer driven pump. I am still good with that. I'm not building a race motor. I am still holding that 300-350 hp as an attainable goal and still remain reliable. Bill has apparently done extensive computer modeling on the exhaust headers and I plan to call back to get some of that tomorrow. Header wise I am not planning on anything fancy. Just a forward mount, log type header to place the turbo high and tight for good access of piping for the inter cooler. That brings me to the next hurdle. There are a lot of schools of thought there. Right now I am leaning towards using two smaller inter coolers. That might make installation easier than one larger inter cooler. Not sure on that as I have never done it. I will start by measuring available space and then start comparing apples to apples.
 
So today is disassemble day. Taking everything off the front of the truck to get the small block out. I will do a little house keeping under there and upgrade the brakes to hydro boost. Fight through the core support, radiator, grille and all the hoses wires and nonsense to get it laid open. I wish I was one of those guys that had a bunch of friends close that loved to play with this stuff but alas I am a one man show. My only help is my 5' Asian girlfriend. While enthusiastic sometimes she sucks as a mechanic....HA!
 
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