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72 burb (this is why i can't go to salvage yards)

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So with all the parts out and pissed off in general pulling parts from the donor truck I am going to work on the triple stick shifter for the Dana 20. One shifter will control each function of the transfer case with the third lever in the pack is PTO engagement. I will most likely build it from 3/8" cold rolled steel rod with a bronze bushing at the fulcrum point.

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Swapped the diesel from motor mounts from the 84 into the 72 suburban today. Careful measurement revealed the stock 350 crossmember and motor mount locations would be 3" closer to the firewall than the already tight 84 suburban. After removing the diesel mounts, the bottom ear of the mount needed to be trimmed off to fit within the frame rail of the 72, which is shorter slightly. Used one of the existing holes in the frame for the old crossmember to locate the mounts and drilled the other holes into place. It cleared fuel lines, brake lines and even the vent line for the front diff, with a little massage of the lines. Once the motor and transmission are mocked up into the 72 I will fabricate a crossmember that uses the stock holes in the diesel frame mounts. The 84 cross member is a little bulky and with the frame design being slightly different didn't sit flat as there is a little more angle to the 72 frame at the point where the crossmember is.

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Going to be swapping parts for the next few days. Steering box, hydro boost master cylinder, spindles and backing plates. All moving forward just not much to see. Parts for the rear end should be here Saturday. To get it back on wheels again and rolling.

Still on the lookout for a turbo 400 to use. Money is getting tighter now as I wait on all the parts that I have ordered to come in. So for now I will play with what I have.

Drawing up some plans for the front bumper. Need to stiffen the bumper area between the frame rails. Also looking to have at least two exterior tow rings as well as tow hooks on the frame. The PTO winch will be tucked up as close to the front bumper as possible with a roller fair lead hidden behind the front license plate.
 
Nothing in the last week. I had to drive 14 hours to work on a friends travel trailer and help him get it back to Montana. Ended up being a larger fabrication job than I had estimated. Took a few days of cutting and welding to get it back on the road. I just got back a couple days ago and I have been relaxing a little.

While I was gone I got a call from a local guy looking to have some diesel work done on his 6.2 an apparently this guy is a square body farmer. To the tune of about an acre of them. I sense a close friendship coming on...HA
 
Today was the first day in nearly two weeks I have had time to turn a wrench or do pretty much anything with the sub. A friends call from 13 hours away to help repair a travel trailer, and well, it was a friend so I packed up and headed east. Then I think everythig that could go wrong, went wrong this week. Got most of it taken care of and a back on track.

So I started tackling the rear axle swap this morning. The old 14 bolt I have needed perches moved and shock tabs cut. Those things were a bitch. Chevy really doesn't intend for you to cut them off....wow. Got the axle ground down, smoothed and dug out my box from DIY4X. New spring perches, new u bolts, new u bolt plate and shock tabs. Took about 4 hours all said and done to get everything cut off, relocated and welded back on. The spring hangars are just tacked in with a shallow bead as it all will be coming back out for final welding and paint. This was just the moch up with the easy inch in the rear. Also added a larger overload spring to the back spring pack while I was at it. Seemed like the thing to do.

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Next up is to get the front axle done and springs swapped. The stock springs are 45" and I need about 2.5" of lift to level it out. That is with the Diesel engine in there so think big block weight. Then we will add the weight of the PTO winch in the front, so you see my dilemma. Don't really have the funds to buy new custom springs so I will be looking at stock springs from different vehicles in an attempt to get what I need. I think there are some CJ and other Jeep rears that are 45" long with 5-7 leafs. They would most likely be the first ones I would try. I am looking for a stiffer suspension for towing.

So you if you have some advice other than buying new springs, I am all ears.
 
6872xtc said:
Don't forget to check the clearance of the bump stop bracket and U-bolt plate.

Oh, and :waytogo:
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Yeah they gotta come off. Smack dab over the new spring plates. After the shock tabs are located and everything is welded in for keeps I will take a closer look at the bump stops. Likely with a taller bump stop out boarded.
 
Vombrown said:
Next up is to get the front axle done and springs swapped. The stock springs are 45" and I need about 2.5" of lift to level it out. That is with the Diesel engine in there so think big block weight. Then we will add the weight of the PTO winch in the front, so you see my dilemma. Don't really have the funds to buy new custom springs so I will be looking at stock springs from different vehicles in an attempt to get what I need. I think there are some CJ and other Jeep rears that are 45" long with 5-7 leafs. They would most likely be the first ones I would try. I am looking for a stiffer suspension for towing.

So you if you have some advice other than buying new springs, I am all ears.
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Is moving the front spring hangers an option? That would open up other spring possibilities.
 
So I finally nailed down the OE type k-20 wheels I was after. DANG they are heavy. Seriously, much heavier steel than I remember. Anyway, I'll get them stripped off of the tires Monday and off to powder coating. One more thing off the list.
 
I am pondering what they would look like with rock rings and stock k20 hubcaps all powder coated to match....LOL I hate my brain sometimes.
 
Ok so here is the end result on the rear end swap. 14 bolt, 3.73 gears and a Detroit locker that I found and installed over the weekend. I was able to locate the "correct" steel wheel that I wanted. Smaller dog dish cap ring, correct back spacing and everything as the original 15" wheel in a 16" steel wheel. Rear axle installed now with all DIY4X parts, spring plates, u bolts, spring perches and easy inch. Combination gives 2" over stock lift without showing it really. Looks like a 3/4 ton stock truck and that is exactly what I was after. Tire is a commercial 235-85-16, tall and skinny. Exactly the look I was after. I didn't move it forward, it is center center on the perch and easy inch. I love it. Now to search for hubcaps and send everything off to powder coat.

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The rocker panels are in need of repair on this truck and I am seriously considering cutting them out and welding in a heavier steel to replace them. Maybe 1/8" plate to make a more solid rocker for the future. We travel a good bit on ground that requires sliding the rockers over stuff...HA! My question is this, rock sliders frenched into the stock panels or just build the heavy duty versions that I was thinking of?
 
Vombrown said:
My question is this, rock sliders frenched into the stock panels or just build the heavy duty versions that I was thinking of?
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I vote for frenched in, if for no other reason than that I am considering the same thing and want to copy you. :D
 
I have some 1/8" 2x2 square tubing laying around. What I was thinking was removing the rockers all the way back. Welding in the rock sliders then adding the sheet metal back in to finish it out. Then most likely Bed liner shot on the whole thing, white, to match the roof. Which I plan to shoot with white bed liner at some point as well after building a roof rack for it at some point.
 
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